Discussion in 'Die-hard Overclocking & Case Modifications' started by Preachergeek, Feb 7, 2007.
Is that expensive or just the price for quality components?...
Yup. You can save some money by going with an XSPC RX360 raditor or a Swiftech MCR320 radiator though.
Nah, it's time to give the economy a boost: Consider it ordered!
Thanks for the help, John
...well I did some water cooling back in Athlon Thunderbird (good times) era:biggun: but ended as a disaster as o silicon tube just cracked and fill my case with water (not the same quality as today on components and more or less the whole cooling loop was self made). Anywayz the next setup will definitely have a water cooling system :3eyes: and thinking of integrated ones, the same like Sapphire 4870X2 toxic ed, I think is more cool factor with something similar :cyclone:
I took the luxury to buy a liter of ultra pure water, without having to buy and mix with biocides myself. Are you absolutely sure I don't need anti corrosion, because on the bottle it says: "does not replace the necessary corrosion protection, but serve for mixing with inhibitors like e.g. Anti-Corro Fluid."
Currently I'm using a Black ICE Radiator GT Stealth 360 to cool down the water in my loop, but I'm wondering how much I would gain in terms of cooling performance if I would get myself a ThermoChill PA120.3, which is supposed to be the best 360 rad out there.
Current temps are ~60 degree on the Quad if fully stressed and 41 degree on the VGA. Pump is an Liang Li 12V Pro. How much can I expect these temps to drop with that ThermoChill in my loop? Or with the best 360 rad if the ThermoChill ain't the best out there.
Very little in your loop. Add another radiator or split your loop into two loops.
If you are not mixing metals, then no, you don't. As long as you are not mixing metals there is nothing that can corrode. You will however need some biocide, like some PT Nuke or a piece of silver.
After fixing a leak under my faucet last evening, I spent the day wondering why I've never seen copper pipe being used instead of flex hose for water cooling a pc. I understand that working with it would be difficult, but that doesn't stop many of us from doing off the wall things to improve upon our cases.
What is the reason nobody does it?
PTnuke isnt good man. It'll cloud tubing after a short time is why.
Tygon tubing seems to discolor too. You'll notice it less with a colored UV tubing though. it has also been thought to cause problems with blocks...
I use distilled water, and 2-3 drops of concentrated iodine per liter for purification purposes.
Many are using coils of silver flatwire in their loops to kill microbes and algae, but if the water is purified and everything killed to begin with you will be fine. Distilled water is CLOSE to pure, but not completely and can still carry the microbes that start algae.
If you use feser (which is fine), you shouldnt add anything to it since some additives do not get along well with one another. The ill effects will usually be seen on pin grids in blocks after a time. Blocks like the ek supreme, koolance 350, and heatkiller will suffer the worst from this.
Seems a lot of these additives tend to bind the pigments in the coolant out of suspension and deposit them on the metal. Same goes for any other elements or minerals in the water. This is where a coolant like feser shines because it helps stop any particulates from settling anywhere.
Yes it has been used and to good effect.
I have a friend by the name of "cheapskate" who has done this and there are a few others as well. Copper tubing is totally fine to use, but keeping it looking good is an uphill battle. You'd have to coat it with something.
This is an example of a system built by a member of my home forum...a place dedicated to extreme watercooling.
His work is brilliant. check it out...
Too inconvenient. Mounting/re-mounting blocks and swapping out hardware would be a pain I think, and not everyone knows how to braze pipe connections.
Interesting theory. I've had my loop running around 8 months with distilled+one drop of nuke phn. I notice a tiny bit of clouding in the tubing around the barbs, but I always thought that was due to plasticizer leaching from the tubes over time, and not from using an additive.
There are a lot of cats who probably used more than 1 drop and it has had negative effects.
I use iodine myself and it works great. No staining and it's a method of purifying water for drinking if the need was there.
but the silver coils are a popular method requiring nothing else and a lot of people are going with this. I do a lot of teardowns for testing and such, so I just use iodine and distilled, but have had no ill effects.
just join your connections with a short piece of hose.
The whole deal with copper tubing is that it allows a great industrial look with the elbows and all and is way better at having some precise routing.
There is another guy I have seen who has built the whole frame of his machine out of it and coolant flows through all of it.
Possibilities are endless...just another way to break out of the box with a great custom build.
The new nuke or the old? The old does not cloud my tubing. I use cheapo masterkleer and there is no clouding whatsoever. I ran my old loop for one year with no changing of liquid or tubing, and the tubing still had 80-90% of its clarity left when I changed it. I'll see if I can find some of that old tubing and take a photo if you don't believe me.
edit : nvm
The fittings for the radiator are Nickel-plated brass... And they now look like this:
Can this endanger my other components? I don't have this on the other fittings, thank god.
I'm planing to buy some WC parts to be placed inside of a Corsair obsidian 800D and I'm just wondering what your opinion would be on these parts?
1 x Thermochill PA120.3
1 x Laing DDC 18w with XSPC Reservoir Top
Masterkleer 7/16" Tubing (6 feet)
1 x Watercool Heatkiller Rev 3 Copper CPU Block
1 x 1366 Backplate
3 x Yate Loon D12SH-12
1/2" Barbs throughout
2 x Feser 1litre coolant
Suggestions are also welcome.