The RTX 2080Ti thread (cont.)

Discussion in 'Videocards - NVIDIA GeForce' started by Glidefan, Mar 31, 2019.

  1. TaskMaster

    TaskMaster Maha Guru

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    Hope the best for you bro. I have Asus Strix 2080ti, no problems and great cooling. See my previous posts on this thread to temps I get under load.
     

  2. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    Hi there

    Hope you have better luck with Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP, owned this GPU, its solid card no issues, temperatures under water have been OK, Samsung memories have been on my Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP, personally I would use Galax 380W BIOS if you are planning to run GPU under water, on air you can try but I would expect temperatures would be higher, in therm of OC, my Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP been proper dud, wouldn't OC beyond 2100MHz(for short periods of time would do 2115MHz as max )

    Asus RTX 2080Ti Strix have now and very happy, will do 2160MHz which drops to 2145MHz on Matrix BIOS and on XOC 2190MHz but that's with very low ambient temperature

    Hope this helps

    Thanks, Jura
     
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  3. lukas_1987_dion

    lukas_1987_dion Master Guru

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    Ok I have it! I mean Zotac RTX 2080 Ti AMP, it has Samsung memory, max temps around 65C, and no squeaking coils, so for now I'm very happy, will run some benchmarks later and maybe post some pics/results :)
     
  4. TaskMaster

    TaskMaster Maha Guru

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    ayyyyy congrats!
     
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  5. styckx

    styckx Ancient Guru

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    I took to the dark side a few weeks back.. Retired my 1080.. This is my first ever Ti card... Getting a nice stable +170 / +700 OC on it...

    [​IMG]
     
  6. jmmy23

    jmmy23 Master Guru

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    Ha guys remember HDR from HL2: Lost Coast?

    [​IMG]


    But wait now you must have HDR monitor right? On LOST COAST not
     
  7. nhlkoho

    nhlkoho Ancient Guru

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    That's not the same thing as an HDR display.
    The HDR option in Half Life 2 means it uses that wider range in its internal lighting calculations. On a non HDR display there isn't a way to directly display that range of brightness levels, but it can use techniques like bloom (where bright light bleeds out to the surrounding image) to simulate it.

    Actual HDR screens can output that wider range of brightness directly.
     

  8. jmmy23

    jmmy23 Master Guru

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    thank you for explanation :)
     
  9. Netherwind

    Netherwind Ancient Guru

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    Hey guys, not checked out this thread for a long time now but I do have a question:
    Anyone with a MSI 2080Ti Gaming X Trio tried the 400W BIOS that is on Overclockers?
    What are the risks of flashing such a BIOS? I feel like my card underperforms and wanted to try and fix it.
     
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  10. fantaskarsef

    fantaskarsef Ancient Guru

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    Same situation here. Not with the underperforming (like in the other thread), but doubts about flashing. As far as I've read / heard though, you might get higher clocks, but sometimes "slower" performing memory (probably different timings), but I have no idea if it's worth it. Talked with @jura11 about it a bit, maybe he wants to share his experiences with different 2080TIs and flashing them.
     
  11. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    Hi @Netherwind and @fantaskarsef

    What are risks with flashing different BIOS,I flashed my Asus RTX 2080Ti Strix with Asus RTX 2080Ti Matrix BIOS which do have higher power limit but that's it there, difference in OC is in my case zero, with both BIOS I can do same OC and performance is same just with stock Strix BIOS I would hit power limit and clocks would start to tumble, with Matrix BIOS clocks are stable under load and no downclocking, as second BIOS I use Asus XOC BIOS which I use only for benchmarks and some tests, in rendering performance is similar

    I only consider flashing different BIOS if I'm hitting power limit in any benchmark or any game, similarly I flash higher power limit BIOS to all builds which I have done

    If you are really power limited then yes higher power limit BIOS can help there, but if you are temperature limited or yours temperatures are higher then any higher power limit BIOS can result in higher temperatures

    In some cases like Galax 380W BIOS which indeed I think have different memory timings than stock BIOS, that's my view on that, I done few tests with several BIOS and still think Galax 380W BIOS is best for reference PCB GPUs

    Repast of GPU does work and I would try to do that as first, personally I use NT-H1 or Kryonaut, but lately I started to use Thermalright TFX TIM with which temperatures are around 3-5°C lower than with NT-H1, this I tested on two GPUs EVGA GTX 1080Ti and Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP and in both cases or GPUs temperature drop have been pretty good

    I would think so yours cards should hold stock clocks with power limit maxed out etc, but there are several things you should consider like temperatures as from Pascal GPUs we have here Nvidia Boost with which clocks are mostly dependent on temperatures

    Maybe you remember I have previously Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP with which I couldn't break 2100-2115MHz at all and my temperatures have been pretty good on that GPU, agree with Zotac I could run VRAM at much higher speeds than with current Asus RTX 2080Ti Strix but difference in gaming or rendering etc Asus RTX 2080Ti Strix is lot better GPU than Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP what I miss from Galax BIOS is 380W power limit there

    As first I would repast TIM and try improve airflow in case and mainly I would monitor ambient temperature, as everything with lower ambient temperature you will have lower components temperatures

    And if you are really want better performence or better clocks then only way how to counter this is going with water cooling, I just ordered fir friend build Phanteks Enthoo Luxe 2 and hopefully it will be here soon and friend I think have as you have MSI RTX 2080Ti Gaming X there, his clocks are under air as max 2010MHz I think with +90MHz OC that's with GPU temperatures in mid 60's to low 70's

    If you will go down to route of water cooling, then I would suggest get 2*360mm radiators or 360mm and 280mm radiator, this shouldn't cost more than £120,CPU waterblock £60-£80,GPU waterblock £100-£140,pump and reservoir £60 and 8*16/10mm fittings this shouldn't cost £35,fans depending but I personally like Arctic Cooling P12 PWM

    Hope this helps

    Thanks, Jura
     
  12. Netherwind

    Netherwind Ancient Guru

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    Hey Jura.

    I've done a couple of things here to check what the hell is going on with my GPU.

    First of all, I'll most definitely try and replace the TIM since I feel the GPU is running hotter than ever. I also cannot OC as high as I used to.

    I did an OC Scan with MSI AB which said that the main problem was "Power". I've attached a picture below where I've set a manual OC curve and undervolted my card. Power limit is still hit several times during the TimeSpy benchmark.

    I noticed that MSI has released a newer and official vBIOS, maybe I should flash that one first and see if anything happens before I try the 400W BIOS? You're saying that OC potential is the same but in that case, what benefit does one get of increasing Power Limit?

    Airflow cannot get any better since I now have Noctua fans in pretty much every slot. I'm thinking about putting back my original fans just for fun and see what happens with the temps but honestly, it shouldn't get any better since the Notcuas have higher CFM.

    Water cooling is not an option since I don't have the knowledge, patience or the €500 required for water cooling. I'm tired of tinkering with the computer and just want to play games.

    Regarding clocks, I always knew the bin I got was bad so that's why it feels weird to have to undervolt my card to keep clocks/temps in place.

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. serbicu

    serbicu Ancient Guru

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    Sorry to hear that dude. If you just want to play games, just don't OC, it does not bring that much of a difference is it? I mean I had my 2080ti OC and yeah had some more fps sure, but it's not that big of a deal really as i play 4k and not much of a difference.

    Ah.. and also forgot to mention my card died on me yesterday, got artefacts and one of the cooler stopped working lol. I never had a GPU die on me, and I had like at least 13 GPUs in 19 years of PC gaming lol.

    Now, I have the option to get a voucher of some 920 euros, and can only buy a new one from the same site, but, they only have a few options of 2080ti, and one of then is the one i think you have, the MSI gaming x trio right? (if I'm not mistaken), and seeing that you seem to have issues as well, not really sure what I should do.

    I mean, the other options that I have, are INNO3d, Gigabyte or again Palit like the one that died on me (not going with them again). They have no ASUS, no EVGA, just ZOTAC but only 2 models that I don't really like.

    What to do? I mean I don't want to buy some 2080 super , as I will lose some performance for sure. Or maybe buy whatever 2080ti and then hopefully in 6 months I can exchange it with 2080ti super, if it ever comes out that is.
     
  14. Netherwind

    Netherwind Ancient Guru

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    I would agree but 100MHz in the GPU world is not that little, especially if one is hunting those last FPS in a game to reach refresh rate cap. But...you are right that chasing those FPS is a bit tiresome and futile. I just wanted a "perfect" gaming experience but I guess it doesn't exist since hardware and games constantly change.

    If we talk about your problem and forget my issues with the Gaming X Trio...on paper it's supposed to be a kickass card since the cooler is one of the biggest on the market. Maybe I've just had bad luck with my latest two cards or maybe MSI has not been great with QC as of late. If you only have crap cards to choose from I would take the MSI one anyway since it's your best bet considering your choices :)

    We're still not sure about the 2080Ti Super and what gains it would give so maybe it's not worth waiting for something we don't even know exist. After all you need a card right now so yea, go for the best your store can offer :)
     
  15. serbicu

    serbicu Ancient Guru

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    Yeah I guess my choices are limited indeed, and you are right, I think I will go with the MSI trio then as the other maybe valid option that I have is the MSI seahawk x, 200 euros more for some hybrid water thingy, so not sure about that cooling solution.

    Thx for your thoughts on this, :) and let's hope that your card will regain its "strength" after that new change of GPU paste. Saw in the other thread, that someone did exactly the same thing with the same card and it worked like magic. Not sure I will do it in the future, if I decide to go with the same GPU, since it will void my warranty for sure.
     
  16. Netherwind

    Netherwind Ancient Guru

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    I would always recommend an AIO version but in this case it's different. I've read reviews on the SeaHawkX and another similar 120mm solution and the results were underwhelming to say the least. I would expect temps at max 50C (a full custom water loop goes even cooler) but these 120mm seem too small for the beast 2080Ti chip. inno3D on the other hand has some iChill version with a 240mm rad that seems to perform really great (as you would expect). So yea, HawkX is not worth 200€ since the cooling performance isn't that great and the temps obviously matter quite a lot when OCing.

    Thanks mate, I hope so too :) I'll make an attempt tomorrow.
     
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  17. fantaskarsef

    fantaskarsef Ancient Guru

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    Only in relation to 50C temps: My custom loop is running 2x480 rads for CPU and 1x2080TI GPU... I have 43°C max temp on my GPU, never seen more, and that's considered high by some ( ;) @jura11 ). But even there I'm mostly voltage / power limited... so cooling's not everything, the BIOS does help too. So better always check the BIOS max W on Techpowerup or such sites. At least that's what I think about it these days.
     

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