The RTX 2080Ti thread (cont.)

Discussion in 'Videocards - NVIDIA GeForce' started by Glidefan, Mar 31, 2019.

  1. Netherwind

    Netherwind Ancient Guru

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    Hey,

    My old card had Micron which was unstable at 1000MHz so I had to run it at 700MHz. My new one has Samsung so right now I'm running it at 800MHz but will try 1000MHz this weekend.

    Actually 2040MHz is unstable in Division 2 which crashes (display driver error) so I had to lower the OC and now the card runs at 1995-2010MHz boost (+130 on the core) stable. I'll try 2040MHz OC in Rage 2 this weekend.

    Well, I've read this thread and up to 2100MHz on air seems fairly common? I remember ppl were saying that their cards boosted to 1950-1975MHz easy on stock clocks? I expect the clocks you get with your Zotac (~2085).

    I've not tried the scanner on this card...but I did try it on my old card which resulted in a curve. But the thing is that even if I ran a game with the curve that MSI AB created, the card still ran at stock clocks so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here.
     
  2. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    Hi there

    I have tried few GPUs with Micron, some cards would do easy 1100MHz, some able touch 1200MHz but with some I just couldn't push beyond 450-600MHz,tried only 4 GPUs with Micron memory modules,OC of these cards (two of cards would do 2085MHz and one would do measly 2040MHz and one would do 2055MHz), these all cards have been tested or tried with their own stock cooler and CPU cooler I have used my old NH-D15 with 5820k and case we have used Fractal Design Define R6 TG

    Temperatures have been in 70's on GPUs(highest temperature I have seen 76°C with auto profile) and clocks as above there, one of them eventually hit 2100MHz but only if temperatures have been below 50°C which I seen on start when clocks started to fluctuate and clock started to drop to lower bins

    I didn't touched voltage because of temperatures I would assume with more voltage temperatures would raise

    Cards in question have been Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP(friend one with Micron VRAM), MSI RTX 2080Ti Gaming X Trio, MSI RTX 2080Ti Duke and EVGA RTX 2080Ti FTW3 all with stock cooler and backplate

    In actual gaming these clocks have been unstable, usually I needed to drop one bin down like from 2085MHz to 2070MHz or 2055MHz to 2040MHz and so on

    If 2100MHz is common on air cooled cards not sure, as I said on start of any benchmark or game you may will see 2100MHz but usually when temperatures are low enough, if temperatures starts to raise and clocks starts to drop and usually settle in 2070MHz maybe less depending on temperatures and ambient plays big role in this there, during the winter or colder weather I could push these cards but now with hotter weather friend reports his OC is now in 2025-2040MHz range

    Regarding the stock boost, some people reported too their Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP would boost with stock BIOS easy beyond 2000MHz which I have never seen on my card, my stock boost with stock Zotac BIOS have been in 1980MHz range I think, reflashed my BIOS twice or three times to be sure but not seen reported clocks, with stock Zotac BIOS my clocks fluctuated a lot because of power limit most of time, hated that and tried too mount again my stock cooler on my Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP and expected clocks around 2085MHz as well at least with voltages at 1.093v but no way I could hit only 2055MHz which dropped to 2040MHz after while, used like Noctua NT-H1 and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut which resulted in 1-2°C lower temperatures with Kryonaut and overall temperatures have been in 72-75°C and 68°C with fairly aggressive fan curve and with that noise have been very noticeable

    I would try OC Scanner and report back, assuming you have enabled in MSI Afterburner under properties Unlock Voltage control, can you change that to Extended MSI and check if you have enabled too Force constant voltage, this I have enabled and voltage control is like should be, will post screenshot later on

    Hope this helps

    Thanks, Jura
     
  3. Netherwind

    Netherwind Ancient Guru

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    Don't you feel that a TG case makes the GPU hotter than normal?

    How do you feel that the OC clocks are solid in terms of fluctuations? Does your card keep the 2085MHz through out your test (after initial stabilization of course)? This and my old card couldn't keep a OC clock stable and fluctuated almost constantly. My 1080Ti on the other hand did not. Below is an example where the guy has a 2080Ti running at a completely rock solid 2100MHz (under water mind you). If I run all my fans at absolute max my temps during Superposition are around 52-53 degrees but the clocks vary when OCd between 2010,2025,2040 but with some drops here and there to 1995 then back up again, and this with the GPU load fairly constant. I really have no idea what's going on here.

    I tried the OC scanner but just like the last time...it doesn't really do anything. Sure, the curve did increase OC by some +50MHz but it was hardly noticeable during Superposition. Forcing Constant Voltage also doesn't seem to do anything since the voltage keep bouncing up and down like a ball.

    ()
     
  4. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    Hi there

    I have done few tests with Fractal Design Define R6 TG and personally I replaced all fans for Phanteks ones because stock Fractal Design fans FD I think are not the best, if TG window or TG makes case hotter this depends on case and depending on case airflow etc but in this case think everything have been OK

    I will try make quick video and you will see my clocks doesn't fluctuate in gaming, just tried SOTR or Shadow Of Tomb Raider and clocks have been rock stable there, no fluctuations on clocks at 3440x1440 and performance have been OK although in The Hidden City I have seen frame drops which I would say is pretty normal

    Will post screenshots of benchmarks like with 2085MHz, 2055MHz or stock clocks which are 1950MHz with Galax 380W BIOS, Exclusive Fullscreen improve frames by 1-2FPS

    Yes my card would keep the clocks during the benchmark or gaming, only clocks would drop by 15MHz if temperatures are beyond 38-40°C if temperatures are below that then no frequency drop by 15MHz

    Hard to say why yours clocks does fluctuating, not seen that with Galax 380W BIOS but seen that only with stock BIOS but there I think I have issue with power limits, can you check if you are not hitting any kind of power limit or voltage limit which I don't think you should

    2100MHz I can do with 1.093v but with such voltage I think temperatures would be bit higher due this I'm running 2085MHz or 2055MHz with lower voltage and with this my clocks wouldn't drop from 2100MHz to 2085MHz if temperatures are above 38-40°C

    If you are seeing any frequency drops then I would suspect you are hitting Power Limit or voltage limit, with voltage limit you shouldn't see any frequency drop, with power limit you will see clocks bouncing or fluctuations

    What is yours actual OC on core, try creating own custom voltage curve, if its 85MHz or 125MHz then set normal curve at 70MHz or 100MHz and raise voltage point at 1.068v or 1.075v to 90MHz or to 130MHz this should works or been working for me

    Bouncing voltage I have seen only with stock Zotac BIOS, did you tried Galax 380W BIOS if it would be better than yours stock one?

    Hope this helps

    Thanks, Jura
     

  5. fantaskarsef

    fantaskarsef Ancient Guru

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    Wow that's really something... to be honest I never had a GPU fail on me besides due to being in heavy use for years (MSI GTX580 Lightning Z, highest factory OC there was since I bought in late in the cycle, and it lasted 6 years).
     
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  6. anxious_f0x

    anxious_f0x Ancient Guru

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    It's been a very strange period for me hardware wise, my Core i7 6950X died after a week of owning it at the start of 2017, then my motherboard died in March this year which is also being linked to killing my Palit RTX 2080Ti's

    I've always taken great care in handling hardware so to have all these parts fail has been a surprise. I even had an electrician out to make sure my electrical sockets weren't the issue.

    Fingers crossed it'll be plain sailing from now on :)
     
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  7. fantaskarsef

    fantaskarsef Ancient Guru

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    Yes I too was thinking about the wiring in your place too to be an issue if so much hardware does fail. It's like you pulled together half of our guru's hardware failures under your own brand...
    Hope you can stay at your cards at least, as long as they work now.
     
  8. Netherwind

    Netherwind Ancient Guru

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    I've tried a few TG cases but they all made the GPU warmer than in my FD Define S case. But I need a new case soon so I'll just try something else.

    I've been playing Rage 2 a lot lately and the clocks are actually stable there. I get 1995MHz with a fixed fan % (50%) at 69C. It's not loud at all so I'd consider it OK. BUT, it depends a lot what kind of NVCPL power management I use:
    Adaptive : The highest possible clock is used at all times except if the load is decreased a lot. This makes my clocks stay at 1995MHz almost all the time.
    Optimal : Clocks are completely dynamic and vary all the time as the load fluctuates. This means that clocks go up and down from 1350 to 2040 depending on temps and load. For example, Rage 2 plays at 2025MHz for moments when the temps are around 60C.
    Have you noticed these differences?

    I checked Power and Voltage limit and yes, I'm often hitting power limit and voltage limit is hit constantly. Not sure if I dare to flash the BIOS since I don't want to risk bricking my card...

    Actual MSI AB OC right now is +130 core and +900 Mem without touching the voltage slider. I know Gurus have been trying to tell me how the curve thing works but I simply don't get it. I also had no idea the voltage can be set as a curve. I guess I need to look at a video or something.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2019
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  9. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    Hi @Netherwind

    I have tried few TG cases,but mostly with TG side panels, I don't like or wouldn't use for any build full TG case, no way

    Few months back friend wanted to use Corsair 570X case and we are tried just mock up build there, temperatures been all over the places, swapped case for Fractal Design Define R6 and temperatures on GPU dropped by 8°C and CPU temperatures have been lower by 6-8°C, this Corsair have fairly restricted airflow which you can only overcome by running fans in fairly high speeds or better fans which you still want to run in high speeds at least 1200RPM

    1995MHz is not bad I think this is my stock boost for Zotac RTX 2080Ti AMP with Galax 380W BIOS

    Yes I do use rather Optimal too in NVCPL which gives me probably best performance, High performance mode is good too but in some games or SW I'm getting weird errors or simply game would crash with nvlddmkm errors, hard to say what is causing that

    I would keep Optimal Power for power management, Adaptive doesn't work for me there, I'm using on few SW Adaptive power which prefer this but for games Optimal works better with Turing or RTX GPUs, on Pascal GTX1080Ti I have always used High Performance management mode which worked better

    You shouldn't brick GPU with flashing BIOS, best BIOS for yours MSI I would say is Sea Hawk X which is 350-360W which should be more than enough, not sure if Galax 380W BIOS would work if yes you can loose HDMI or DP ports if port IO is different to yours, I know tgis has happened to friend of mine when he flashed Galax 380W BIOS to his Asus RTX 2080Ti Strix

    Temperatures can be higher with such BIOS flashing, be aware of that as yours stock BIOS is 330W maybe not sure of that

    Regarding you are hitting Power Limit or Voltage limit, this voltage limit I'm hitting as well when I'm running my normal profile 2055MHz with 1.049v, its normal and wouldn't be worried, power limit is something which you need to investigate, please check at what voltage you are running such clocks usually I would suspect you will be running 1.068v as max and in some instances you should be in 1.05v as max, just check what voltage you are running and assuming you have raised power limit target in MSI Afterburner to max or you are leaving in 100%

    Higher power limit BIOS would help you from not hitting power limit, this I would try as first there

    If you want have better temperatures then maybe replacing TIM would bring temperatures down by few C

    As TIM replacement Kryonaut or Noctua NT-H1 are my TIM to go

    Hope this helps

    Thanks, Jura
     
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  10. chispy

    chispy Ancient Guru

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    Oh well i went ahead and did the complete shunt mod for power limit and also the v.mem voltage mod with a variable resistor in order to get the highest clocks possible for benchamrks on hwbot. After testing this new mods on my 2080Ti on my water chiller it maxed out at 2250 Mhz on the core and 2100Mhz on the memory , it is voltage starve as i locked down 1.093v on MSI AB curve. Perhaps with 1.1v more clocks are possibe but also more heat means lower clocks :/ , it's a conundrum ...

    All in all i'm very happy with my results on the Founders Edition RTX 2080Ti volt moded even beating most Lightnings , Galax HOF , kingpin , Matrix at hwbot on the same cooling :D


    [​IMG]




    2250Mhz core - https://hwbot.org/submission/4155349_

    2235Mhz core - https://hwbot.org/submission/4158243_

    2220Mhz core - https://hwbot.org/submission/4152363_

    2100Mhz vram memory - https://hwbot.org/submission/4155364_
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2019
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  11. XenthorX

    XenthorX Ancient Guru

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    I like your style @chispy :eek:
     
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  12. fantaskarsef

    fantaskarsef Ancient Guru

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    Wow well done mate!
    Only that... getting 150-200 MHz more on the core (+10%) compared to normal watercooling seems to really require a lot of time, modding, and a water chiller... that's actually pretty weak in terms of headroom by the chip (not your work!).
     
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  13. chispy

    chispy Ancient Guru

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    Yes this cards are very hard to get them clock high due to nvidia obstacles as they have embedded so much control in their Bios and also in the hardware that makes them almost not worth it to overclock :/ . Low power limits , no voltage control plays a major role on the overclocking headroom as well as temperatures. There will always will be a wall on the chips unless volt mods are done and subsero temps are use in order to squeeze some overclocking. Nevertheless it was fun for me doing the volt mods and see the card maxed out on my chiller at -21c :)
     
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  14. darrenj

    darrenj Ancient Guru

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    I Have the Fractal Design R6 TG with push-pull EK Vardars RGB cooling my 360 rad in the front. Custom loop with a delid 8700k and water-cooled Palit 2080ti.
    The exhaust on top is three 140mm Fractal Designs running at slow revs
    Summer coming to Stockholm
    My temps when playing AC Odessy and Dev 2 fully maxed is 45 CPU and 50 GPU (same loop)
    When the front panel is closed temps go up to 50CPU and 55 60 GPU in game

    Thinking about changing my Fractal Design R6 TD
    But it is very classy
     
  15. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    Hi there

    As @Geryboy pointed out single 360mm radiator is just not enough for 8700k and RTX 2080Ti, I done loop for friend where friend is running 8086k OC to 5.2GHz with Bykski CPU WB and Palit RTX 2080Ti with Bykski waterblock and 360mm radiator and temperatures are very similar to yours

    GPU temperatures I have seen in mid 50's as max that's in higher ambient temperatures 25-27°C, in lower ambient temperature I have seen 42-45°C with fans spinning in 800-1000RPM as max, usually I drop fans to 750RPM which is still enough to keep CPU temperatures and GPU in reasonable temperatures and mainly PC is quiet

    CPU temperatures I have seen in 50's or low 60's in gaming as max and in mid 70's in Asus Realbench stress test or OCCT 4.4.2

    I would definitely recommend replacing Fractal Design fans for something better like is Phanteks PH-F120MP or BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 or Noctua etc

    Fractal Design Define fans are not the best fans for sure, I always replacing them when I do build in FD R6

    Adding extra 280m or 360mm definitely helps with lower temperatures and therefore with lower water delta T

    Hope this helps

    Thanks, Jura
     
  16. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    @chispy

    That's great result there without the question, I'm still not prepared to shunt mod my, with my soldering skills I would probably do more damage

    Did you tried to KPE BIOS which seems max voltage around 1.1xv

    Galax 380W BIOS seems doesn't have tight memory timing as stock BIOS what I heard but you will see there

    Hope this helps

    Thanks, Jura
     

  17. Party Poison

    Party Poison Maha Guru

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    I have the same case, But my loop is split up. 2080ti on a loop with 360mm rad in the roof 3 noctuas as exhaust.

    Cpu is on a 280mm AIO on the front.
    With the fans set to silent and playing Metro exodus with RT on temps will peak at about 43-45c with the fron closed.
    With the fans turned up a bit to say 45-50% and the front slightly open gpu drops to 39-40c



    I know that my things are on separate cooling loops so it may not help too much but was just giving numbers to show that the r6 can give some nice temps.
     
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  18. darrenj

    darrenj Ancient Guru

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    mmmmmm
    Should I have an extra 240mm rad to the loop?
    I do not think a separate loop just for the GPU in the case is feasible
    Ï think my temps are ok
    My trio of 140mm fractals just exhaust air on the top, they are not static pressure fans. I don't think change over to Phanteks is worth it, I mean what's the difference? These fans just exhaust warm air
    My Vardars are great static pressure fans on the rad.
     
  19. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    Hi there

    I would add 240mm to loop if its possible, something like GTS240 or Magicool G2 240mm and many others would be more than enough for you,just stay away from EK SE which are poor radiators, TX240 are good too from XSPC which performs pretty good

    Separate loop in such small case not sure if its feasible or rather economical, you need two pumps and two reservoirs, adding extra radiator you need fans and two extra fittings and this shouldn't cost you more than £60-£100 for this

    Regarding the fans, there are no static pressure fans or airflow fans, there only fans, some fans perform better than others, Fractal Design Define fans are not the best and I would replace them for something better which perform well like on radiators or in restrictive cases etc

    What's the difference probably few degrees depending on loop, you can try to use yours FD fans on radiators and then swap them for cheaper Arctic Cooling F12 and you should see difference on water delta T

    Other than that get water temperature sensor and monitor that, XSPC sells them for £5 or something around that figure

    Hope this helps

    Thanks, Jura
     
  20. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    Hi there

    Tested today my Asus RTX 2080Ti Strix with EK Vector RTX 2080Ti Strix Waterblock which hasn't been without the problems

    As first with EK Vector RTX 2080Ti Strix Backplate tighten up I couldn't boot and GPU hasn't been recognised in Windows, however with one screw(around the core) untighten I could boot and GPU have been recognised etc

    Temperatures wise, temperatures are higher by 2-6°C on load, on idle temperatures are higher by 2-4°C, highest temperature which I have seen is 42-44°C

    Stock Strix BIOS is just rubbish, 315W power limit is just enough for such card, I hit in every game or benchmarks power limit, stock clocks I have seen 2010MHz as max, tried OC Scanner but this doesn't work for me as I'm running multiple GPUs and seems there is issue with that

    Tried +100MHz on core which GPU couldn't keep as I hit power limit and clocks started to drop or jump from 2115MHz to 2070MHz to 2055MHz etc, VRAM +1000MHz is easy with that card, no issues and my Strix does have Samsung VRAM modules

    Flashed to Asus RTX 2080Ti Strix XOC BIOS and best OC what what I could achieve is +150MHz which in theory should have been 2160MHz, but running 2145MHz still at 1.05v and tested that like in 3DMARK and Unigine Superposition and no issues with stability, no crashes and I have set power limit to 42% which is 420W and max I have seen 389W in HWiNFO with 1000MHz on VRAM

    Just what I hate on XOC BIOS is VRAM is running at full speed and doesn't downclock on idle etc

    Will do few more tests and will see

    Hope this helps

    Thanks, Jura
     
  21. darrenj

    darrenj Ancient Guru

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    Nahh
    There is a difference between Static pressure fans that force air through radiators and normal case fans that push air out of the case. It has been well documented, tried and tested. I have even seen the difference myself.....
    There is hype around it, like anything else on the internet but there are facts..
     
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  22. nevcairiel

    nevcairiel Master Guru

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    There is also the new Noctua fans that beat both airflow and static preassure fans at their job. :D (Within the same noise levels, anyway, I'm sure you can find stronger fans that just go mad)
     
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