The GTX 1080-Ti Thread

Every card is of course different but I need to increase voltages to get stable OC so "+50" in the slider gives me stable 2000MHz if the temps do not go over 74 degrees amd if I add "+100" I can hold 2038MHz if the temps are in check.

 

I posted this on page 69,but you can give it a try.

Set MSI Afterburner to default.
Press control + F to get voltage curve.
Move only single point on voltage curve.
Lets say 1.02mV for now(you can lower later if you want for now voltage is for stability)
Move voltage point 1.02mV up to 2038 Mhz.
Hit red X or close voltage curve.Then click on check mark in MSI Afterburner to apply voltage curve.
This will result in a flat line voltage curve starting at 1.02 mV and 2038Mhz.
Setting the voltage curve this way will result in your MHZ to drop by increments of 13Mhz until temperature of the card is under control .Say under 70C.
Set a fan curve next to run at 70% fan speed at 60C GPU temperature .
Result should be a drop of two bins (so 26Mhz in total )So the GPU clock will settle at 2012 when card get to a normal running temperature (again say under 70C)

See screen shot for a general idea how to set.

 

Thanks for the tip but this didn't work for me unfortunitely. Instant crash in heaven benchmark. I'm not having any luck overclocking with the curve. I've tried a lot of different things but can't seem to stay stable. So far the traditional way seems to work the best for me. I'm averaging at 1974mhz after throttling. I have my fan curve set to 70% at 50c and increasing by 10% by every 10c. For now I'm setting it to +40 on the core and +400 on the memory at 135% power target on stock voltage. Luckily the memory didn't overclock as disappointing as the core.

Here's my current voltage curve with my OC.

Spoiler

 

I have the same card , voltage curve stock , 35mhz on the core (overclocking the memory only gave gains in benchmarks did nothing in game) as long as i keep the temps below 74 degrees i get a constant 2000. However for some reason pubg makes it bounce off the power limit and ill get 1987 but never lower. I assume your card must be getting quite hot? Im in the UK and its not exactly toasty here

 

Well it's winter now so it's not getting too hot. You are right, it does get brutal here especially in the summer. Luckily I have A/C to combat that so climate isn't much of an issue. I actually noticed a good increase in fps overclocking my memory although you do have to overclock it a lot more to see a gain. I'd say about every 100mhz on the memory would equate to about 10mhz on the core in terms of performance. So raising it by 400mhz gave me approximately what a 40mhz core increase would have given me. In combination with my core overclock, on some games in 4k it made a difference of dropping to 56-57fps to maintaining 60fps.
Out of curiosity what bios are you on and what is your power limit percentage set to? Maybe my 135% is what is causing the high temperatures because it's only 14c outside.

 

Maybe you can help me optimize my curve, since I don't know where to start from. Without touching it I can get maximum to 2038 MHz, that would be a +50 on the core, plus a +120 on PL. After that benchs and games crash, which is quite weird, considering the quality of the card... I thought I could go a bit further...

Here's the curve @Default:

 

Not weird at all. My Aorus xtreme is doing worse than yours with a higher power limit. Every card clocks differently but 2ghz seems to be around what most people are getting on air cooling. I'd say you're already above average. 2.05-2.1ghz for those on water.

 

Set your fan to 100% so as to remove temp limits as a factor.But as always, if you want to get the best out of a top end card then H2O will always be the best option.

 

Not sure how to even go about water cooling my card even if I wanted to. I'm guessing I would have to tear apart my card to modify it. Doing that would void my warranty and make my card hard to sell later on. I usually sell my cards when upgrading to lower the cost. Gigabyte does sell the waterforce xtreme. It would be nice if they had some kind of trade up program for that.

 

Im on the bios before yours , so we have the same top wattage your idle is lower so my 125% is the same as your 135% if that makes any sense As far as i can tell the only differences in our bios's is your lower idle wattage. i have mine set to 125% (i beleive thats 350 watts when its flat out) My fan curve is basically 10% above temp so 50 degrees is 60% (no fans before 40 degrees)

 

I just tried that bios two days ago to see if my OC would be any better. No luck of course. If your 125% equals my 135%, you might want to try my bios because I can go up to 150%.
I just found that raising my power to +30mv would allow me to get a stable +500 on the memory. It also doesn't seem to change temperatures at all surprisingly. I did make my fan profile slightly more aggressive just in case. I'm now at +30mv, 135% power target, +40mhz core (2ghz but 1987-1974mhz after thermal throttling) +500 memory with an aggressive fan curve.

 

For overclocking, should i use Afterburner or that ASUS GPU Tweak program? I have the ASUS 1080ti Strix gaming Oc.

Is it worth removing the cooler and replacing the cooling paste with something better (the Arctic Cooling MX-4 paste does a great job with my CPU i have to say)..? Kind of sucks to void the warranty i guess.

 

Wasnt aimed specifically at you but rather in general, i have returned cards under warranty before no problem, even when the aircooler has been removed and replaced with a waterblock. Anyway for the last 10 years or so i replace my WCed card every other generation and put it in my lads WCed rig.

 

Afterburner everytime and removing the stock cooler will possibly void the warranty but manufacturers and cards are all different on this. Generally replacing the standard paste with the right amount of decent TIM can cut temps by a significant amount, this is hugelly evident in gaming laptops where its not unusual to drop 10-15 C.

 

Can't do that, it'd make too much noise. 70% fan is really loud already.

Understood, I was used to older cards where I could give a +100Mhz in most cases without problems, that's why I'm surprised. Thanks!

 

I meant set it to 100% while you Overclock to see if the card is throttling due to temps

 

Hey guys,

so i´ve been playing with my MSI 1080Ti Duke and i noticed that the fans only start working after the GPU reaches 60 degrees. Is this normal for this kind of GPU? It seems a little high for me and i remember that my previous 1070 would start the fans after reaching 50º and that was a much cooler chip.

 

It started with Maxwell.

This zotac 980ti Amp omega has it too, but I disabled it (bios flash) and set min fan 28% until 45C then it rises, 73C is 70% fan, etc.. mine spins up to max 2900rpm.

I found it crap to be honest, now it idles at 28-30C and basically silent at 800rpm, before it idled ~45C.

 

D'oh! Yeah I'll give a try.

 

Its the same max wattage on all the cards you just have a lower idle wattage for energy saving (250 watts vs my 300) hence your higher percentage to get to the same max

http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl I have f3 yours will be f3p