In summary, what I meant is that I calibrate for a PC and I am content with what the Xbox 360 looks like after calibrating with a PC in mind. This is because sharpness will be pixel-perfect (to a TRUE 1080p image. Not an upscaled 720p one), Contrast and Brightness will be correct (unlike the Xbox 360 which flags improper RGB levels over HDMI as of Dec. 4th, 2011), and color saturation as high without bleeding (color bars to calibrate this with). Some TV's gamma setting is not an actual gamma correction feature, but is an "enhancement" just like Noise Reduction and Dynamic Contrast. LG's and Sony's are an example of those respective TV's. On Sony's, you can actually turn OFF gamma (which makes it clear its an enhancement and not a correction feature). On an LG, there is no off, but the Input delay is worse as you use 2.2 and 2.4. The LOW/1.9 gamma setting yields the lowest input lag while still being able to properly calibrate white saturation and black level (it also yields the best contrast ratio on my screen once i turn down the backlight of course...). It was not high because once I switched to LOW black level, it still wasn't contrasted enough to acceptable range. Again, the EDID override basically makes it so the GPU disregards what your display supports and forces the full output for that type of cable. HDMI is basically DVI with audio so it disables audio and forces full 4:4:4 just like a normal DVI connection would be. But in doing so, it incorrectly maps it with my display since it doesn't get told by the GPU what to do with the signal anymore. You can't. 60hz is where PC-generated content is usually common (Consoles fall into the PC category too) and since the PC is the only electronics device that can come remotely close for the bandwidth and computing power to output 4:4:4 in real-time, you won't see it for a device that is mastered for displaying content below that refresh rate. For example, 24hz is commonly used in what? Movies/Video. The cinematic standard we all have seen for decades in theaters and on DVD/Blu-Ray is where that refresh rate is common. That is why when blu-ray player's even GIVE the option between 24hz and 60hz, it is for you to choose between a better representation of color (4:2:0 from blu-ray/dvd in an accurate 4:4:4 window) or smooth video playback with a 4:2:0 source in a 4:2:2 window (though not as accurate and sharp as 4:4:4, its hardly noticeable so use 24hz and be happy with the smooth video). So that is why your TV only switches to "PC mode" when it detects a 60hz (50hz for PAL regions) refresh rate being sent to it.