This is stock but it only climbs a lttle when oc. I use a custom fan curve and it reaches 60c in metro most of the time. I only game so pointless overclocking this expensive card for the sake of it so stayng at stock. Res is 3840 x 1600 with full RT and all max settings.
I'd recommend just a core overclock without changing the voltage. I can do +110 on mine, giving a steady 2860mhz in gaming. It's free performance, might as well take it
You can set offset to +210mhz, undervolt to 1.0Vcore and still get 2850mhz, shaving off ~50W power consumption
It also depends on the resolution. If you're below 4k, the 4090 runs much cooler as it's barely being stressed anyway.
Something i noticed... the brands that dont have as noticable coilwhine, they have the backplate covering the backside of the gpu die, where as the ones that have more pronounced coilwhine, have a hole in the backplate for the backside of the gpu die.
Someone else with a properly working/installed OpenCl Driver and a RTX 4090 who want/can do this job? Thanks for the attention! gpuOwl benchmarks online (new link)
I tried! I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I used the afterburner to set a flat line after 1v,2850mhz but it was completely ignored. I've seen other people do it on youtube so I know it's possible on the 4090, I suspect PEBKAC.
so I need to use the OC bios to reach 600watt? I think I'm using the normal one. with the ZOTAC AMP EXTREME that's why it has dual bios, one of normal usage 450watt/490 |+10% and OC which 600watt or it's the quiet bios https://www.zotac.com/us/news/dual-bios Also, I think the 4090 is not in MSI mode anymore because maybe that's the fix for HAGS problem? what you show us is a peak power, it will never stay on 500 and above for more than couple seconds or minutes
Well Dudes I am extremely blessed because I have 2 Asus Tuf OC editions and both are extremely quiet. I don't hear a whisper out of these cards. No coilwhine or anything. The only time my fans were heard is when I OC'd my card for higher benchmark results. This is in my Intel and AMD build. I do have some monster PSU's. I'm truly happy with these cards thus far. The metal covers and dual HDMI ports were the icing on the cake for me personally. No problems to report with the connectors. Both will be replaced soon.
I forgot to mention that I made a teachable moment for myself. (Teachable moment aka dumb butt move) The new PX-1600 Seasonics already come with the 12VHPWR adapters for the 4090. They're just thick and not too flexible. Cablemod's adapter moves more freely. I If you recently purchased a Seasonic PSU you can have the 16 pin sent to you once the product is registered with proof of purchase.
Jesus! I have noticed no issues so far. The Fans of the GB 4090 Gaming OC are facing downwards, so I haven't seen any differences in the speed of the fans - but I will check this. Do I need to eyeball this or do you check it with something like HWInfo? My card has no rattling sound and I have no humming in the case - I even have an Aquacomputer D5 Pump which also doesn't make a humming sound on my case. Even at full speed. /edit: Fan1 reading is around 300 rpm higher than Fan2 under normal load conditions (the offset changes on different rpms). I guess that is normal. And also yes to the irregularly spinning fans at around 45% (no irregularly spinning on my card at 50% and up but definitly below). There is still an offset between Fan1 and Fan2 and sometimes only Fan1 is at around 400 rpm, next second both are at 0 rpm, another second and i can see that Fan1 reports around 600 rpm while Fan2 reports above 1000 rpm and so on. I don't know how reliable these reportings are. But both Fans work without strange noises and they work when it matters - on load. So I don't care. And IF they fail... well, there is a guarantee... So, don't worry. Use the force of the 4090. I mean I wouldn't have had the idea to check the rpm reading of the Fans. I never even did this on my GB 3080 Gaming OC.
Thanks for reminding me to download and try Metro Exodus on the 4090 Any luck with a new card? Although that's nice, there's been much debate lately if the very small increase in FPS is worth the extra power draw You should be able to do +1000 without issue. I've only read a select few cases where the user could add +500 max. Mostly people are trying to get past +1500 but that's definitely down to silicon quality. If you want to try, go ahead I can't so I'm stuck with factory BIOS. I honestly hope they would fix the fan profiles. So you pressed Ctrl-L to go into Curve mode. You dragged the 1v dot up to 2850MHz Then you pressed, held Shift and dragged with the mouse below the curve from 1v to the right so that everything was marked in blue You then pressed Shift + Enter to make a flat line And finally you hit "Apply" in MSI AB? Glad to hear that you nocied the same things. Did you visually see the irregularities? I'm thinking about recording a video for the rest of the guys. I'm just wondering how bad this is for the fans...that's all. One crazy thing happened yesterday while watching my wife play Mario on Yuzu. I noticed in MSI AB hardware monitor that the temp was a bit on the higher side and that Fan 2 was at 0 RPM the whole time but Fan 1 were at 30-35% RPM and with these irregularities during the whole playthrough. I have a screenshot I'll post after work. Still you're right that they don't make any sound but I'll still keep them at 51% speed just for sure and disable manual fan if it's a heavier game (like Quake 1 RTX for example)