Pure DC computer

Discussion in 'General Hardware' started by SirLink, Feb 23, 2007.

  1. Altazimuth

    Altazimuth Maha Guru

    Messages:
    1,307
    Likes Received:
    2
    GPU:
    Sapphire Vapor-X 5870
    A Largeish Electrolytic Capacitor (watch the polarity and voltage rating) connected to the +12v where it enters the PSU would de-couple the supply a bit and act as an energy store and might help; but it wont affect voltage dropped across connections and wiring. It might be worth trying though.

    Fully charged batteries might be as high as 14v for a while, so two in series would be 28v, a long wire might bring it down a bit at the PSU end.

    Can't you connect the LCD to the PSU output and run it off two batteries in series, and run the scope off 12v? It should still run for a while, I would think.

    It would be helpful to know just how much current everything is pulling.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2007
  2. SirLink

    SirLink Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    4,529
    Likes Received:
    0
    GPU:
    Geforce 980Ti
    I don't think that will help, but I can give it a try... can't hurt... I tried runing the LCD off the output side when I was bench testing. And I had no voltage drop since I was using the A/C brick (and really short- <12'') leads from the battery...

    Ahh now that I say that, If I put it on 24v, I will need to find a 24v brick...

    I know, my cheap Greenlee meter doesn't handle a high enough current ratting... :( But I can't be more than 5A otherwise I would be blowing the fuse... So it's probably more acurate to say it's under 4.5A, once you account for the trip tolerances (its a fastblow)...

    I will try putting the batteries in series... I have another set, so I can rig up a quick test without undoing what's setup...
     
  3. SirLink

    SirLink Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    4,529
    Likes Received:
    0
    GPU:
    Geforce 980Ti
    Well This is what it was all for! My new scope! :D:bounce::kind: :hatty:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I am verrrry happy! :p
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2007
  4. Roger_D25

    Roger_D25 Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    4,385
    Likes Received:
    2
    GPU:
    Asus Strix GTX980Ti
    Link,
    Well that is up there with one of the coolest things I've seen in a lon time! It must have been a blast to open and set up, reminds me of gettings new hardware! Plus the 6th picture down (second picture from bottom) looks pretty awesome with the two steel suit cases, reminds me of 007 or something like that (but in a cool way)!

    Now that you have the scope, portable scope computer, portable battery pack, and high-end software do you think you'll have any problems getting everything to work together? I guess I'm asking more about the Starry Night software workign with your new scope, are they meant to be used together or will you have to do some tweaking to get the software to recognize the scope?

    In anycase it looks like your going to have alot of fun with this new toy! Last but not least, it's pretty cool (at least I think it is) that you started this project and stuck with it unitl you had it working. Well finally all that hardware work will pay off!
     

  5. SirLink

    SirLink Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    4,529
    Likes Received:
    0
    GPU:
    Geforce 980Ti
    Yeah, I am glad that pc mounted in there so well... I don't think any other arangement would have done as well for what I will be doing with it...

    Yeah, it was just like christmas! lol It was a blast to setup... I need to get some cases now to transport the scope and tripod. I will say this... I is much bigger than it looks in the pics... Those legs on the tripod are 2'' in diameter!! Stable as rock too...

    Shouldn't... I did alot of reasearching to finding a scope that will work with starry night... The Celestron cg5 mount is on the list. Should just be a matter of choosing it from the list once the serial cable is connected. I still have some 'bugs' to work out with the power issue from the batteries to the pc. But I have my temp solution in place till I get some time to experiment some more. Running 2 12v lines from the batteries to the pc, one for the pc itself and one for the LCD... It is causeing too much of a voltage drop. I may try adding a capacitor, or just running the batteries in series and go 24v to the pc...

    Thanks for the kind words roger! :D
     
  6. orenda635

    orenda635 Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    6,865
    Likes Received:
    2
    GPU:
    BFG 7600GS 256mb / Radeon 9550 32mb
    Is that a Sopwith Camel I see on your desk? I've almost finished the RC model I'm working on.

    That's one big mofo of a telescope. I think the problem with mine is I don't have a proper lens in it. Not enough magnification. It's about as powerful as a half decent pair of binoculars right now. I've had it for 10 years and rarely used it. This thread makes me want to take it out more.
     
  7. SirLink

    SirLink Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    4,529
    Likes Received:
    0
    GPU:
    Geforce 980Ti
    Good eyes! It's made of Lego though... :p One of my favorite planes... You should... Stargazzing is a blast! The magnification issue may be that you need better eye pieces... that's what does most of the magnification... :)

    Connected everything up and got the scope talking to the pc! Very simple. I choose my scope from the drop down and hit connect... :p Then I can find a object inside Starry Night, right click it, and tell it to skew the scope there... :D Very sweet... Like having my own mini observatory! Just need a building now... haha!

    I did however rewire the batteries so they send 24v to the pc and put the LCD on the output side of the psu... Seems fine. When I was operating the scope the voltage of the batteries drops. So under load the pc was getting 12v exacatly, and despite two seperate lines, was not enough to hold it up anymore... On 24v it seems stable and my voltages on the output side of the psu are within perfect tollerances. 11.80v :)

    When I was wireing up the batteries I discoved I would like to put a switch between the pos. and neg. terminals to break the 24v series... That way I can connect up my charger with out having to undo the bolts on the terminals themselves... So that will be my next 'bug' fix...

    Also going to need some cases to store/move the scope in. Would love to find some more of the alumininum equipment cases that would be big enough to put the scope in one and the mount parts in the other... :D
     
  8. orenda635

    orenda635 Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    6,865
    Likes Received:
    2
    GPU:
    BFG 7600GS 256mb / Radeon 9550 32mb
    The switch is a good idea. At my RC club, we have a starter box with a large auto battery. They did the same thing with it. When the switch is turned off on the box, the battery is kept charged with an array of solar panels. Solar panels are great for keeping lead acid batteries topped up.

    I found some info on the eyepiece. Maybe you could help me SirLink.
    On the collar, it says it's a Omcon [FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Plössls[/SIZE][/FONT] 17mm. It's attached to a 45 degree erecting prism diagonal.

    For cases for your scope, try Home Depot. I remember seeing some large aluminum cases in there.
     
  9. SirLink

    SirLink Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    4,529
    Likes Received:
    0
    GPU:
    Geforce 980Ti
    Well... If I try and connect the 12v charger up to one battery, since they are in series, I think it will confuse the charger... So I want to break the series... I will continue to 'build' on it... Maybe adding a visual indicator to monitor the level... That's a cool idea about the solar cells.. You would need a good many of them to provide enough current, right?

    Sure I can help... 17mm is a mid range eye piece. The lower the number the higher the power is. You total magnification is the focal length of the tube divided by the focal lenth of the eye piece. Plossls are good all around eye pieces, great for general viewing... Planets/Deep space objects... The diagonal, doesn't modify the magnification, it will flip the image right side up... Do you know the focal length of your tube? You linked it a while back, if I remember, it was an 80mm objective? That's a good size objective... You may just need some more eye pieces...

    Check out these pages for a better, more indepth explanation...
    http://www.telescope.com/content/le...ategoryID=29&iContentID=644&CCNavIDs=19,22,29

    http://www.telescope.com/content/le...ategoryID=29&iContentID=621&CCNavIDs=19,22,29


    That's where I got that one for the pc... Gona need a bigger one for the tube though... :p
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2007
  10. orenda635

    orenda635 Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    6,865
    Likes Received:
    2
    GPU:
    BFG 7600GS 256mb / Radeon 9550 32mb
    Depends on what you'll be using it for. I use a Motomaster Eliminator 3.3w panel for starter battery maintenance while I'm flying. That provides about 275mA of power. Cost me about $50 CDN. For charging, I'd go with a 15w one, which can provide 1.25A of power at 12v. They cost more $170 CDN at Canadian Tire, which is about $146 US.

    About telescopes, here's the place mine was bought at.
    http://www.khanscope.com/
    My scope is an 80mm.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2007

  11. SirLink

    SirLink Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    4,529
    Likes Received:
    0
    GPU:
    Geforce 980Ti
    Not a bad price... 1.25a would be enough to put a charge on the battery as long as it is not too low... How receptive are they to light... Do they produce that level of current indoors/non direct light?
     
  12. orenda635

    orenda635 Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    6,865
    Likes Received:
    2
    GPU:
    BFG 7600GS 256mb / Radeon 9550 32mb
    In very bright, direct light, it can produce up to 20v. They have no trouble producing 12v.
     
  13. SirLink

    SirLink Ancient Guru

    Messages:
    4,529
    Likes Received:
    0
    GPU:
    Geforce 980Ti
    how about the amp load wise?
     

Share This Page