Power Supply FAQ

Discussion in 'General Hardware' started by Makalu, Feb 10, 2009.

  1. Makalu

    Makalu Guest

  2. dudecat64

    dudecat64 Ancient Guru

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    Asrock rx 6750xt
    Thanks makalu.
  3. dudecat64

    dudecat64 Ancient Guru

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    Asrock rx 6750xt
    Just wanted to let everyone know the 750w psu i have is a good psu. Nothing great but for the price it is nice psu.
  4. skk233

    skk233 Guest

    is zebtronics 500w platinum a good PSU ?? my dealer insisted me in buying it..

    my specs :

    core i5 760
    asus p7p55d
    geforce gts 250
    optical drives - 2
    hard drives sata 7200 rpm - 2
    ddr3 - 1333

    may do overclocking of GTS250 ..

  5. Makalu

    Makalu Guest

    well the only Zeebronics I've seen were Deer/L&C made which is one of the worst makers. They may have upgraded to another OEM or Solytech but I have no idea...would probably need to see inside one. The 12V/22A rating indicates that it's not really a 500W unit and probably only 300W judging from the claims and ratings on their other models.

    Are you in India? This place has the FSP Saga II 500 priced just 60 rupees above the Zeebronics 500:


    That's a decent build with 80+ efficiency, two PCIe connectors and the 12V combined rating I have not found but sure to be at least 30A judging from the previous model Saga 500's.
  6. Randolph

    Randolph Guest

    Landlord analysis is right, in which I emerged a situation someday.:puke2:
  7. must_kill_ati

    must_kill_ati Maha Guru

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    6800 XT
  8. Makalu

    Makalu Guest

    The three 40mm fans could be pretty loud but shouldn't be too bad under that load...would be 100-120W depending on which die the GTX260 is. I'm not sure which direction the airflow in this one goes but some of them "exhaust" into the case instead of out the front which I personally wouldn't be too wild about.
  9. ati666

    ati666 Guest

    hi this is a graet thread for psu,

    i currently added a Giagbyte gtx470 to my setup with Abit aw9d-max, 8gb ram, 3 seagte hdd, 1 dvd writer, 1 sound card x-fi, cpu intel e8500 when ever i game or load my gpu close to 100% my pc restarts. i know its my psu (tc tech 550w). before my gtx470 i had 8800gts512 which ran fine. so i went out and bought a new psu.

    the thing i would like to know is that is it a good psu ( S-TEk 800w psu) and i would also like to know which connectors are on which 12v rails as it has 2 12v rails.

  10. Makalu

    Makalu Guest

    I haven't heard of them and don't know who makes them...but the presence of the little red voltage doubling switch and some other things says it's a low-end unit 600W unit at best...it's simply not possible to implement that circuitry in anything bigger.

    It may not really be a dual rail supply...could be one rail since that's cheaper to do and they sometimes lie about that also. If you look at the yellow 12V wires and some are solid yellow and some are yellow with a colored stripe then that'll tell you which connectors are on which rail and if they aren't color coded then you'd have to open it and examine the PCB.

    There really isn't a whole lot of options for them to do with two rails and two PCIe connectors though...most likely it's CPU on one rail and everything else on the other or possibly CPU and one PCIe on one rail and everything else on the other.

  11. Bhaal

    Bhaal Master Guru

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    EVGA RTX 3080
    Revolution85+ 850w and Modu87+ 900w

    I can get either. I want to know which is the better one ? I'm wanting a new powersupply so i can overclock and also with some future Crossfire/Sli in mind. Also i was looking at Corsair 1000hx , but i like the idea of having 10pin/12pin ready psu. So out of the three which one will you recommend ? But between the revolution and modu ?
  12. Makalu

    Makalu Guest

    well there aren't any new connectors being proposed right now and I dunno the future but my guess is the next "step" will just be two CPU connectors or three PCIe connectors and a lot of PSU's have extra ones of those already so I wouldn't make a purchasing decision based on the Enermax connectors...albeit any type of connector can be added there if it's wired to match on the PSU end so there is some "future proofing" there.

    The Rev85 is better than the Mod87...I'd go with that or the Corsair.
  13. Lovestar

    Lovestar Guest

    Thank you for this thread, it was very helpful to me after having a hard time finding clear info about PSUs online. :)

    And, I would like some advice. The system I'm building currently has a stock 350W Allied PSU that came with the chassis. Ew. Bad. I want to replace it.

    But, I live in a pretty old home. Multiple electricians have told me the wiring is quite bad, that the power is "dirty" and that unprotected electronics will probably be damaged by prolonged exposure.

    I don't understand this stuff at all, but I do know that if someone uses an appliance in another room, my lights dim and my CPU temp increases. So I kinda believe the electricity here does suck.

    So I want to buy a PSU with good protective features that will make sure my system components don't sustain damage from this environment. But, I'm totally lost when I try to shop for PSUs myself. I can't figure out what features I really need, and what's just hype.

    Could you give me some guidelines about what features I should be looking for when shopping? Or, recommend a PSU for my needs? I am willing to pay well for a good PSU because I think it's a very important part of the system, especially where I live.

    Currently I'm considering Corsair AX750, because it sounds impressive. But, I have no clue if it's what I really need. I do really like the modular feature though, since my case is kinda cramped inside.

    Any advice you can give is appreciated. :)
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 20, 2010
  14. Makalu

    Makalu Guest

    The 750W is way overkill for your system which won't load it enough to get the unit up into it's efficiency range. This'll do nicely:


    or this if you want to save some money:


    a 300W unit would do but you won't find a modular one but anyway you get the idea.

    Best solution for the wiring would be to fix it or at least that one circuit...maybe try and take some of the other loads off that circuit or erm well nothing wrong with an extension cord running down the hall right? lol (to an outlet on another circuit if it's any better).

    Next best is just get an AVR (automatic voltage regulator) like so:


    The 500W rating there is misleading btw...think they just want to sell the bigger model. It's rated 1200VA so 500W would be worse case scenario using like 40% energy efficient appliances...1200VA will handle your complete system w/monitor and peripherals no prob.
  15. Lovestar

    Lovestar Guest

    Thank you so much! That's very helpful! And, I like the models you've suggested. I just have a few questions. :)

    1. If I get a smaller PSU (the 400W Seasonic you linked), will it still be able to provide enough energy if I eventually upgrade the VGA, or other components?

    2. That AVR is a great suggestion, I didn't even know that existed! It sort of seems like a UPS without the battery. Other individuals I've asked about this have suggested I just get a full UPS for the extra protection (from sudden shutdowns), but I'm not sure if it's worth the extra cost. Could you recommend a UPS for me to consider as well, that would provide the same protection as the AVR?

    3. Is it true that the filtering/etc features on UPSes and PSUs can conflict with each other and cause problems? Or should I not worry about that? I just don't want to accidentally do something ignorant and damage stuff in my system.​

    Unfortunately I can't do much about the wiring. I don't own the home, I can't move (yet!), and I've already worked with my dad to create a trial-and-error map of what outlets are on what breaker lines (or something). I've got my PC and room lights on what we think is the least-loaded outlet/line and it still does that weird stuff when appliances turn on. Scary. :(
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 20, 2010

  16. Makalu

    Makalu Guest

    You could upgrade to a 100-125W card with the 400W PSU but the 520W will give more options in the future.

    No reason to buy a UPS if you aren't experiencing power outages but if so then you want a line-interactive type like this:


    Some PSU's don't like the simulated sine wave produced by some UPS's but that's about it as far as conflicts. Usually they just make noise though and it would only occur when under battery power during a power outage with the above UPS so it's a temporary thing and not something I'd worry about.
  17. Lovestar

    Lovestar Guest

    OK. I'll go with the AVR you suggested then. :)

    Just one more question! Is 560W too high? The 520 you suggested has a kinda clunky modular design I'm not too hot for. But the Seasonic SS-560KM is about the same price as the 400W you suggested, and its modularity pleases me. Would it be a good choice?
  18. Makalu

    Makalu Guest

    There are some better quality AVR's but they start around $75-100 and I think that one will do the job and cheap enough to try out and see how it does.

    The thing with the sizing is PSU's efficiency drops off at low loads and particularly below 20% of total capacity since that's the lowest load called for in the PSU guidelines and 80plus certifications. 20% of 560W is ~115W...I'm guessing your idle loads are like 90-100W and 150ish peak. So you'd be a bit below the optimal most of the time with the 560W but since it's ~87% efficient at 20% load the efficiency would still be low to mid 80's and not too bad...plus since we're only talking about 100W to begin with the difference is negligible.

    One thing I should have mentioned about that 400W fanless and this 560W semi-fanless too is that the fan in a top-mounted PSU is part of the total cooling solution in the ATX design so be sure you have good case cooling elsewhere to compensate. That Allied POS probably runs it's fan full speed all the time. The Seasonic 560W isn't likely to run the fan at all with your system unless your internal case temps got like 120 degrees...really the only thing that will warm up the heat sink with the thermal sensor for the fan is about 300W of load on the unit.
  19. PhazeDelta1

    PhazeDelta1 Guest

    good job on the post. it was my first time reading it. i do have a question though. i have some parts that im putting together and giving away at a raffle on new years eve. im trying to look for a psu that will work, but is not necessarily "overkill" so to speak, for what ever the power draw will be. i would like to stick with the corsair brand or anything you can recommend will be fine too. i want whoever ends up winning this to be happy with what they get and not have to worry about power issues or anything like that. any info you can provide will be helpful. thank you in advance :)
    heres the specs:

    AMD 1090T Black Edition CPU
    GA-890FXA-UD5 Motherboard
    XFX Radeon 6970
    Corsair XMS PC10666 RAM (4x2048mb)
    OCZ Vertex 2 60Gb SSD
    Windows 7 64bit Ultimate
  20. Makalu

    Makalu Guest

    well 500-550W is plenty so if it's Corsair then either a Builder Series 5-600W if you want to go with an ok quality budget build or HX550 if you want "enthusiast grade". Other options...hmm well if you don't mind the name and the red fan the OCZ Fatal1ty 550W is a good quality budget design with modular cables priced about the same as the Builders I think.

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