Discussion in 'Videocards - NVIDIA GeForce Drivers Section' started by Krzyslaw, Mar 19, 2020.
This is self-deception, RPCS3 uses exclusively CPU for rendering
No it doesn't. Some things are moved to the GPU.. Maybe you should watch how it actually works? Framerate is lower if i drop my CPU clock but also lower with more latency if i set my GPU to low power clocks, most likely it's mainly the framebuffer but it does use the GPU you silly sausage. Self-deception? Sounds more like you're self-gratifying! Lol. If it didn't use the GPU at all, it would use a software renderer, not Vulkan or OpenGL, no? Never said the GPU it's self accelerated it did i? Hahah.. Input latency has indeed improved since enabling the GPU Hardware Acceleration feature, even in RPCS3 so.. Just had to chime in with something didn't you? Goodness me you're annoying! I thought you could at least infer that considering what the feature changes...
emulation is mostly cpu work, even for preparing the graphics output, even when you use HLE for the graphics you need high ipc cores to emulate the work the cell broad engine does when preparing work for the gpu to execute, not all features of the custom G70 replicate onto a pc.
Any news when they will release th dx12 ultimate driver? I am really curious about the performance increase in dx12 games.
You mean the ~0 change for existing non-Ultimate apps?
Well... I was also thinking about accelerated gpu scheduling which is new in Windows 10 Build 2004.
Memory leaks no and no stuttering they run prety much like all the other drivers i tested normal zero crashes and it runs fine.
Try to launch Doom Ethernal. It crashes on start for me with 450.12. Rise Of The Tomb Raider 20 Years Celebration crashes after a few minutes in DX12 mode (I didn't try DX11). The Assassins Creed Origins benchmark (DX11) often freezes for several seconds around the middle of the test (and when it manages to finish with no pauses, the result is significantly worse than what I get with latest official/stable drivers).
Also, Win10-HDR10 has elevated black level.
Open hdr settings and lower brightness.
I have some issues on 445 drivers
Do you say any modifications made to those settings somehow indirectly reset the black level? I talk about MLL, zero black, R,G,B=0,0,0. It's very clear when it's not right because I have an OLED where black is absolute black (if everything works properly) and I get gray blacks with 450.12 (even on a "solid fill" black desktop background). Still, it's not the biggest issue with multiple games crashing or randomly halting for seconds. I have no Win10-HDR10 black problem with recent official drivers like 445.75 or .78
i also have a LG oled tv best settings is running the following no issues with blacks. for games and desktop run RGB 8BIT for games in the nvidia settings of your graphics drivers.
you will have a little bit of banding but apart from that everything is awesome and blacks are black and HDR works.
or you can run 4.2.0 10BIT this will give you slight grey blacks but will produce better color saturation and perfect grading as in no banding at all and perfect colors.
for everything else as in movies best setting is 4.2.0 or 4.2.2 12bit @59hz on LG OLED TV`s.
and remember * set your tvs black level off auto as it does not work reliably set to HIGH or LOW what ever setting makes it darker., then once you find the perfect setting you like then you can use what ever you like to calibrate your OLED TV
also remember to set your OLED`s brightness to 49 from 50 as even moving one notch down fixes blacks on movies and anything under 50 is good but use something to calibrate that or you might end up crushing backs but for most people 49 is perfect on brightness.
I use RGB Full 8bit 120Hz for games, RGB Full 12bit 24Hz for movies.
It's not that I can't set things up properly. Display calibration is my hobby, actually. I have X-Rite instruments and a CalMAN license, etc. I have been using HDTVs as monitors for ~10 years (including PDP display like a 9G Kuro).
By the way, Auto is only available in PC mode which I don't use (due to the lowered precision, aka "color gradient banding").
The only situation where I have issue with black in Win10 HDR10 mode (not even in NVAPI HDR10 mode) is 20H1 + 450.12. All other drivers work fine, so it's not a configuration issue (unless it's some hidden driver config option which gets stuck [unlikely but it's a preview driver]).
The video card does not affect anything at all. All emulation, as it should be, hangs on the CPU, and the GPU only deals with what displays the image on the monitor. Even gtx1050Ti is enough, and a more powerful one can be useful only if you want to unscrew the resolution up to 300% (4K) or higher, and even within 200% it is enough for most games. With Xenia, everything is much worse in this regard, because due to some architectural features, developers had to fasten EDRAM emulation on the GPU, so in any game there are such hellish requirements for GPU power, even if you run them in 720p.
Hello both, you've piqued my interest. I currently run connected to an 55" LG B-something (it's about 3 years old) via HDMI through a Pioneer receiver. For the most part everything works beautifully. I used to stream TV/Movies through my Shield, but it makes no sense switching inputs/controllers etc when I can just play them direct from the PC using MPC-HC or VLC, however I've sometimes found issues with color space etc plus needing to change the LG's input from 'PC' to 'Blu-ray' (or other 'home theatre' input modes) to take advantage of the TV's motion compensation which works brilliantly for 24/25p material but of course not for PC gaming (hence then returning the LG to 'PC' mode afterwards). Eg: you can set Nvidia drivers to 4:2:0 or 4:2:2, but there's no need if MPC-HC is outputting 16-235. Plus, it's extra steps fart-arsing around with the Nvidia CP to and fro when you want to watch a show vs PC use.
Anyway -- long winded way of asking: do either of you know of an ultimate guide (or are willing to write one!) for setting up an LG OLED for dual PC gaming//TV/Movie use?
Thanks in advance if so!
Funy thing i had my first crash today but it was strange. The game just stoped one minute i was kiling deamons one the other minute my descktop image. Wierd
If it's a <=2017 model then PC mode is the best choice for SDR gaming. PC mode has somewhat lower quality (gradient banding, especially near black) but enables you to use the Auto color space (mind that some PC modes lock the CS to various presets, so pick one where it's grayed out at Auto rather than Wide or Extended and some old models won't be able to do HDR10 tone-mapping or SDR gamut mapping for 120Hz input, only for 60Hz input, so 1080p120 SDR might be inaccurate [over-saturated] and 1080p120 completely unusable regardless of PC mode or not and no matter the picture mode selected) and PC mode always has low input lag and gives you real RGB or YCC 4:4:4 (no matter the picture mode). You don't have to worry about sending >8bit for PC mode because it can barely handle 8bit, so 2160p60 or 1080p120 8bit Full RGB are fine. (The TV is always happy with Full RGB input. It converts everything else to this format at some point.)
For HDR10 games, it's your choice. PC mode is generally bad for HDR10 (due to gradient banding) but it's not so bad with 8bit input (when you set NVCP to 8bit Full RGB and allow the card to dither from 10bit to 8bit). YCC 4:2:2 10bit gives a better experience for dark scenes but you have to use the Game picture mode for low latency. However, in HDR10, Game mode allows you to set Auto color space (unlike SDR Game mode).
For movies, you can send 2160p23 12bit Full RGB but pull it out of PC mode (remove the PC label), especially for HDR10 (where the lower quality is much more obvious).
DolbyVision is not affected by PC mode at all, since DV doesn't support true RGB or YCC 4:4:4 at all, it's always limited to 4:2:0. And LG uses an actual Dolby chip which also plays into the equation, so you have to use the DV Game mode. Or just avoid DV for games (it's not like many games offer it anyway --- too bad Bioware games offer great image quality in DV mode but something is messed up with their HDR10 mode and these are the games which crash with DV and various driver series...).
So, it's complicated and needs a lot of manual switching. The C9 is better in this regard but it's still problematic until HDMI 2.1 cards arrive. But even the C8 has less issues with "special" formats and modes than the C7. I wish they back-ported the software changes across model years.
May be it's Turing specific (or even RTX specific) then. Or may be I was just stupid and forgot to check if I had the Vulkan Runtime package installed along the beta driver (I am not sure the .cab file contains and auto-runs that installer). Although that wouldn't explain the issues with DX 11 and 12 titles.
next driver is not till the middle of the month at the least, don't expect it to be 450 either.
of course 450.12 have trouble with some new game beacuse is older tahn new game or soft
its only some old branch adapting for testing in new enviroments
or you think developer going to 21.9.2020 and get back driver 450.12
Well, I am hoping they release a hotfix soon for the audio not initializing when resuming from sleep on some systems when connected via HDMI.