Discussion in 'General Hardware' started by TyrantofJustice, May 24, 2018.
That is the Gaming 7 model, no VRM issues and made of better components.
I know the Dust build up is bad... like i said ... I will be doing a cleaning.
Just to clarify it was more of a comedic remark!
I'm dealing with some dust issues my self, courtesy of my soon to be ex, TT P5.
Here's my rad/fans after not been cleaned a while.
And here's after some extensive cleaning, back to good as new!
lol i def need to clean my rad as well
nvm. I was gonna suggest checking/cleaning the cpu block too, but I forgot it's a EK Pred 240. Should be clean enough I believe.
May I suggest also cleaning or at least check the block/s too if possible.
I had weird temp spikes/rises and oh well, I found the culprit(below). I had suspected this was the reason since it happened once before but I couldn't do anything besides cleaning it, as I was waiting for all the parts of my new build, so I had to keep using the old tubes/coolant.
Nice upgrade man. I wouldn't mind doing the same if my wallet permitted but I'd rather buy a 1180/2080 at this point. I'm still seriously lacking GPU power for 4K gaming.
What Gunk is that? ... Can a 240 predator be cleasned like this?... I have no clue how to go about doing this nor would i feel safe.lol
That gunk was caused by some type of contamination when I had my Alphacool Single Laing D5 - Dual 5,25 Bay reservoir.
And although I'm sure the cpu waterblock can be opened and cleaned, I don't think it's necessary especially if the EK Predator it's still under warranty(don't know if EK allows opening it). I believe it should be clean.
Nothing to worry about imo.
Dust is normal with any AIO/CLC or custom water loop and air cooler as well, conquer this in many cases hard or harder, you have open case and therefore dust can be issue, how often you clean radiators ?
I have Caselabs M8 with pedestal and I need to clean my radiators every 2-3 months, I don't have any kind of the filter on case, radiators are not so dusty like in yours case, but this depends on radiators and FPI and if you are running fans in push pull configuration
Hope this helps
Not sure on EK Predator, they use Supermacy waterblock which is easy to clean and disassemble, Predator series using EK ZMT tubing which is zero maintenance tubing and should be without the plasticizer or plasticizer free, which I couldn't say about the Masterkleer or PrimoChill LRT and few other tubings, I use Mayhems UV White tubing or their clear tubing mostly with EK ZMT and Watercool EPDM tubing which I think is Tygon A-60-G tubing
But still I would have check waterblock in any case for build-ups of plasticizer or debris etc,its easy to check and if its copper block then tomato ketchup will clean that block easy, vinegar or coke is good as well which works with cleaning waterblocks(only copper), for nickel blocks I recommend fine metal polish or clean the block under warm water
Hope this helps
I'm pretty sure you can open block if its under warranty,if you open pump etc then you can run to problems with warranty
If there is EK seal, it means only has been tested and its leak free from factory and this shouldn't mean you can't open the block
What tubing and coolant did you used in that build, because that does look pretty bad
Hope this helps
Speaking of vrm temperature, my z87deluxe has 16phases, but sometimes @4.7ghz it can hardfreeze, even though cpu never hits 65c+ or max usage..
Idk what's going on with vrm temps., Can they overheat and freeze? although yesterday it happened when my system was idle and then ran ROTR benchmark - this can stress cpu quick with short bursts.. it stopped when I upped cache voltage, so not 100% sure.
Although if I play for longer times and if I keep my cpu fans at lower speeds it can hardfreeze too vs all ok if I use higher fan speeds.. cpu core temp isn't a issue..
It seemed like vrm in that case by lower system fan speeds?
In yours case maybe higher cache voltage this has caused and if they're been VRM, can you try run in background SIV64 or HWiNFO and check temperatures of VRM?
In my case I hardly see 50°C VRM that's with stock VRM heatsink(VRM waterblock is not available for my X99 Extreme6)
But usually with high VRM temperatures you will see phantom throttling, hard freeze or hard reset, ideally in my view you want to be under 80°C, some cheaper board can throttle at 85°C some better with them you can go as high as 105°C but good airflow around VRM is best way to combat that, spot fans are nice and cheap way
Can you try turn exhaust fan as intake, not sure what cooler do you
Hope this helps
Yeah I'm leaning towards cache instability, just happened again even at 1.19v and Quake Champions - now with 144HZ display it stresses the system more then before with 60HZ/60fps cap. That and maybe too tight adv ram timings? I have those tweaked a bit too
Speaking of fan, I still have H90 yes set as intake in PP config on exhaust case so I guess that blows enough air onto those vrm's.
This cache instability is a on off thing, more so now with newer bios, ok its now 2-3yrs old, but now it seemed to be more picky with 4.2GHz cache and 4.7Ghz combo.. One time I noticed it was best at auto, then the next only if with offset voltage, now Im back to adaptive only and yeah its a weird glitch.. xD
Didn't notice it before, guess it's exactly because of 60HZ monitor and back then I never used such high 100fps+.
I am unsure about your board but my gaming 7 has a fan under the heatsink for the vrm's
I had to reset my bios to optimized defaults, and not tweak adv settings too much, seems to be ok now.
/Sorry for offtopic.