IKONiK (1st To Mod The New Be Quiet Dark Base 900 Pro)

Discussion in 'Die-hard Overclocking & Case Modifications' started by EnviousMods, Jul 23, 2016.

  1. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    Modding The HD Bay Mounts:

    Now that it's time to pull the entire build apart is can cut on the case a bit. I decided to remove the upper 5 hard drive bay mounts. I left the very top one which helped retain the rigidity of the piece. Once they were removed I made a new acrylic plate. The passthroughs from the front of the build will come through here. This plate will keep it all clean looking while also leaving plenty of clearance for the tubing and fittings. This little inset on the back of the Dark Base Pro is perfect for everything from mounting controllers to running passthroughs.

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    Battery Mod:

    The battery on your motherboard gets little to no notice but I wanted to do something different. I wanted to make it a little detail that you probably wouldn't notice unless you looked at the build real well. I love doing little details like this. The more someone looks at my builds, the more details they become aware of. The battery was a perfect opportunity to do just that.

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  2. EnviousMods

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    Making Passthroughs:

    The passthroughs went together fairly easy as I had already marked out where my holes need to go. The only tricky part is working with stainless steel. It's a lot stronger than most metals and I went with a step drill bit to make my 20mm holes. I also decided to run a vertical acrylic strip. I think doing so gives it a much cleaner look and it also looks more polished. The combination of acrylic and brushed stainless steel will look sharp.

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    Alphacool Eislich Under Case Mount:

    I have a white Eislich light and a blue one. The plan is to use the white one inside the case so I thought the blue one would work best under the Dark Base 900 Pro. This works really well considering that the case has feet that keep it off the ground a bit. I didn't want to run wiring up the back as it would be noticeable no matter what so I decided to drill a small hole that was big enough to get the cable through. Once I had the Eislich mounted under the case it was a matter of running the cable through the bottom of the case. Luckily it is long enough that I won't need an extension to power it. After having it all mounted up I got my 1st look at it and I'm very happy. It gives a perfect flow without being overbearing. There's nothing worse than a light that's too bright. These lights also seem to play well with cameras. I didn't have to do any tricks or weird settings in order to directly photograph them which is an added bonus.

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  3. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    Modding Cable Combs:

    I had to run SATA power to the OCZ Vector SSD which looked fine as it was but I wanted to organize them a bit more. I didn't have any 1 sided 5 pin cables combs so I decided to modify my own to make the SATA power cable more organized. I tool a CableMod 24-pin comb and cut into two pieces. Then I removed the other side and sanded it. I was able to test fit it and it works great. Finish work is still needed to get them looking perfect and I want to make a couple more. In the picture you can see that I tried a couple different ways to see which worked best. Now I have it down to what I like. I'll update once they're finished.

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    Running & Organizing Cables:

    Now that most of the passthroughs are finished I can start running the CableMod cables and the rest of them needed throughout the build. There is a fair amount needed for this build but I planned routes really well ahead of time so it'll only require some minor modifications. The extra wiring will be placed in the floor cutout that I detailed earlier in the build log. I made the side notches in the cable tunnel a little but bugger to accommodate the power cables coming off the fan controller. This kept all the cables nice and organized.

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  4. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    Re-installing Controller Shroud:

    Now that the custom made controller shroud is painted I can remount it back where it went. This gives the controller a much more finished and polished look. I also finished modding the cable combs sets so that they are all 1 sided 5 pin for the SATA power. These won't be seen much but on those few occasions; I want everything to look as clean and tidy as possible.

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    Final Metal Finishes:

    All of the metal panels on this build are brushed. I started the process a while back but I want to do the fine detail using finer grit sandpaper and then polish all of them before they go back on. Some of these panels you only see a little bit of. I managed to get the main ones refinished and ready to be polished. I've starred polishing one of the panels so you can get an idea of the differences.

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  5. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    Painting Acrylic Passthrough Plate:

    This was a quick paint job. All I needed to do was paint it flat black so it fit in with the rest of the case. I don't think I'll need to make anymore adjustments to it.

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    Re-installing Passthrough:

    Now that I've started reassembling a lot of the watercooling I can start to see how the passthrough will look. I'm exremely happy already and it's not even complete yet. I used my new Dremel to round out a lot of the holes in each layer of the passthrough and it saved a lot of time. It's amazing how powerful this cordless Lithium-ion rotary tool is.

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    Painting Rear Shroud and PSU Shroud:

    Now that it's time for final paint I can sand down the black primer a bit and go to town. I want these panels to looked a tiny bit above flat so I bought a matte clear coat to help protect the pieces. This should also help with the dreaded finger prints. Early on in wanted to see what these pieces would look like it black so I coated them in black primer. I've never tried to paint so long after laying down the primer coat but, it turned out great.

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  6. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    Rear IO Features:

    I wanted to share some of the neat features on the back portion of the IKONiK build. I built a partial shroud that comes out of the back and helps to organize all the cables coming out the back of the IO and PCIE. This helps convay the modern, clean and sleek aesthetics that I'm going for. There is a vandal switch mounted on the acrylic top plate of the shroud. This vandal switch allows you to turn on hidden white leds that will illuminate the rear IO and PCIE slots. This really makes plugging stuff in a lot easier as my room is typically dark.

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    Rear Layered Acrylic PSU Surround:


    I decided to go forward with make a layered psu surround out of acrylic. I used black and white cast acrylic so that it matched the other panel work throughout the build. I know most people won't ever see it on the back but the little details like this are important to me.

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    Trimming U Channel for ModMyMods Custom Badge:

    This was done rather quickly but I decided to trim the U channel that goes behind the honeycomb and acrylic ModMyMods badge I made. Small stuff like this gives it a more polished look. Now the U channel is etched around the honeycomb leaving almost no gap. After I had that finished I installed the ModMyMods badge.

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  7. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    Final Assembly Progress:

    Today I started refitting the many custom parts and pieces of IKONiK. The vast majority of complex builds like this will require minor tweaking to get everything just right. So far almost everything has come together really well. Almost all the cables going to the motherboard have been tested to make sure they not only fit but, look as clean as possible. It will look like there isn't much going on wiring wise but I can assure that there is a ton of wiring in this build. The wiring always slows down reassembly because each one has to be properly routed and tucked away. I also swapped the OCOOL badge for a white one that lights up blue. It gives it a much better look when its off.

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    More Fittings Needed:

    Now that I have the IKONiK build very close to completion I've realized I'll need a few fittings and adaptors. The space is so tight in parts of the build that the only way to do some connections is by using adaptors. Luckily ModMyMods & Alphacool have a hearty selection to choose from which allows me to get in those tight spots. The last few parts are enroute and should be here this week.

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    Plumming Several Dump Valves:

    This is in no way required for the typical user. My case mods tend to travel a lot to shows and LAN events so I wanted an easier way to drain the entire loop. In specific locations I added dumps valves with caps on them. The 1st one is located on the reservoir. All I have to do is take off the cap; hook up some tubing and drain the top half of the loop. The main drain ports are attached to the out and in on the pump. This allows me to drain the other portion of the loop through either side. Arranging them in this way saves a ton of time down the road.

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  8. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    Installing Hardline & Water-cooling:

    Almost all of the hardline has been run and just requires a bit of minor tweaking. Getting the runs perfect was a but more work than I originally anticipated but, was well worth it. The polished chrome tubing does a great job of bringing it all together. I have a few fittings left to install and most of them arrived today.

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    Final Parts Arrive From ModMyMods:

    Now that most of the parts have arrived from ModMyMods I can finish the reassembly and detail the the build before leak testing. The main reason I needed specific adaptors was due to the way I chose to do the runs for the watercooling. I wanted to keep the majority of the tubing going horizontal while have a mirrored vertical run. I'm exremely happy with the way this build is looking. It's even better than I had originally imagine and I'm glad I went with the polished chrome hardline. It's a perfect fit for the IKONiK build. It convays the classy, clean and modern look that I wanted.

    I am still trying to deturmine of I'll have enough time to leak test and take pics before I leave for Computex. I may save it till after so that I am not rushed. This build has taken a ton of time to complete and I'd hate to ruin it because I was in a hurry. Below I started mocking up the 2 vertical runs.

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    I also got these super awesome ModMyMods case badges:

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  9. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    I just wanted to update everyone and let you know i will be leak testing the IKONiK build once I get back from Computex and the CyberMods Competition. Shortly after leak tests I will bring taking final photos.
     
  10. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    Leak Test Prep:

    Checking Wiring


    I took some time to go through all the wiring and make sure everything was hooked up correctly. There is not a lot of fancy lights on this build but I did install a few extra lights that are in various locations and they can be toggled on or off. Double checking everything at this stage will save me on a potential nightmare after leak testing. There was one of the white Alphacool Eislich light I forgot to plug in but other than that it was all perfect.

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    Checking Tubing & Fittings

    Before I leak test I want to pull each piece of hardline off so I can inspect, adjust if needed, clean and reinstall. This allows to do any fine tuning before leak testing and it also lessons the chance of getting a leak. This is especially important when using a new type of tube that I'm not as familiar with. This process has done me well and I've only ever had 1 tiny leak due to a fitting that was a little loose. Once I'm ready to put the tube back on it clean it with water that can be purchased at the store for very cheap. I've already cleaned out the radiator really well before final install so the loop should be pretty clean except for the tubes.

    I try to be systematic about removing the tubes for this process; starting at the bottom and working my way up. This also gives me an opportunity to tighten all the passthrough fittings and stop caps. I also made sure to check the ball valves to assure myself that they are all closed. Leak testing coming soon.

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  11. MJTheOne

    MJTheOne New Member

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    You mentioned and showed a few 3D drawings.
    You were talking about CAD and Sketchup.

    Do you by any chance would like to share these drawings with me?

    It's been a long time ago since I did 3D work (I'm a programmer now) but I'm also a Dark Base Pro 900 Fanboy.

    Been planning and saving up for a build myself but need to figure out what to place where first.

    Thanks in advance!
     
  12. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    Pro Modder Tip: Leak Testing

    I get a lot of questions about leak testing builds. Here's a few tips I use. The main one is either disconnecting the entire system from the power supply or using an external power supply to power the pump. For me this is a must. If the worst case scenario happens I can dry out the hardware that got wet and then it will be OK. It will more than lilely ruin your hardware if water gets on it while it has power going to it.


    Front Lexan & Acrylic Fan Surround:

    I've worked on these two pieces on and off since I first started the IKONiK build. I keep going back and fourth on wether I should use them or not. I already modded the front so it looks sweet either way. I decided to do the little bit of fitment left on them. Now I'll* paint them to match the case. The front acrylic piece will be painted black to match the rest of the case and the thick lexan piece will be left clear. The lexan goes behind the acrylic cover panel. I hand sanded and filed these to match the intake ducts on the Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 fans. I did this because of the performance increase but it was largely due to the aesthetic appeal of the intake ducts. They are one of a kind and required a ton of time in forming the thick lexan so that they perfectly matched. I will have them all together after paint so you can see the grand vision. This is what they look like mocked up before paint and I'll show you what they looked like finished in the final photos.

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    Leak Testing:

    Now that I have everything in place I can move forward with detailing and leak testing the build. I always start by running everything off of a external power supply as mentioned in the tip section. I also used distilled water to leak test as this is a copper and brass system. Some people use paper towels under the fittings and connections incase of a leak but, I prefer shop towels. They are similar to a regular paper towel but they don't release fibers and have the ability to absorb a lot more water. Once I've determined that there isn't any leaks with the system off I went ahead and turned on the pumps. When I get the coolant in I'll deturmine the best setting for the pumps. Since I'm running two pumps I should be able to run them at a bit lower speed while still keeping the pressure at a good level. The 2nd pump runs as a redundancy incase one of the pumps dies; the other can pick up the load until I can replace it. Plus it looks awesome. The next time you get to see the build it will have some awesome Mayhems coolant and it'll be completely detailed. Final photos will take a little while to do but I'm excited to finally see the IKONiK build completed.

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  13. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    I can't remember exactly but if I was showing you CAD drawings they are more then likely from Sketchup. The drawings I made are for concept art purposes only and are not exact measurements or even to scale. I made them before the Dark BASE even become available ton the market.

    For me through best route is always to have the case in front of me and then use cardboard cut to scale to figure out the layout. The Dark Base is very roomy and fully adjustable.

    I have mine inverted as well and have done a ton of modifications taking it away from a stock one. If you just want to look at the screenshots for reference; the 1st page of this log has them. Thanks and have fun with your Dark Base. I love this case so much I've done 2 of them so far. APEX and IKONiK
     
  14. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    I will be adding more final photos as they are gone through. There's so much detail work in this build that it warrants a lot of pictures. First I'd like to thank the sponsors and all of you! Without your continued support and enthusiasm, these detailed case mods wouldn't be possible. I'm truly lucky to have such a great group of people who love these mods as much as I do.

    Big thanks to Be Quiet, EVGA, ModMyMods, OCZ, CableMod, Alphacool and MNPCTECH for providing a canvas for me to create these mods. Quality hardware, accessories and watercooling allow me to push these mods to the next level.

    Hardware Specs:

    • Motherboard: EVGA Z170 Classified K
    • CPU: Intel I7 6700K
    • GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 SC
    • Ram: EVGA 16gb Superclocked DDR4
    • OCZ Vector 180 (480gb) SSD
    • OCZ RD400 NVM M.2 PCIE SSD

    • Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 11 PSU (1,200 watt)
    • 4 X Be Quiet PureWings 3 – 140mm fans and 2 X 120mm fans
    • CableMod B-series ModFlex modular sleeved cable set (Black)

    • MNPCTech Billet aluminum cable combs (3 X 24-pin & 7 X 8-pin)

    Water-cooling: ModMyMods & Aquatuning

    • Alphacool Eisblock XPX CPU block (silver)
    • Alphacool 250mm tube reservoir
    • Alphacool UT60 420mm radiator (special edition white)
    • Alphacool Single GPX SLI connector
    • Alphacool GTX 1070 GPU block
    • Alphacool Eispump VP755 (version 2) x2 w/acetal blocks
    • Alphacool brass (chrome) hardline tubing 13mm
    • Alphacool bulkhead fittings
    • Alphacool assorted adaptors including check valves and pressure release valves
    • Alphacool Aurora reservoir RGB LED ring
    • Alphacool Dual 45 degree rotatable fittings


    Final Photos:

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  15. EnviousMods

    EnviousMods Master Guru

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    Some more pics from the last photo shoot!

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