Geforce GTX Titan X thread.

Discussion in 'Videocards - NVIDIA GeForce' started by Veteran, Mar 19, 2015.

  1. southamptonfc

    southamptonfc Ancient Guru

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    So I started fitting the Arctic Accelero IV to my Titan X. I immediately noticed there are no VRM heatsinks on the cooler or supplied with it.

    So I am going to fit some Enzotech VRM heatsinks:

    http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/air-cooling/passive-coolers/7046/enzotech-mosfet-cooler-mos-c1-passive


    The thing is that if you look at the reference cooler when you take it off, you see that it's thermal pads are not just attached to the VRMs but also the capacitors and some chips next to the VRMs:

    [​IMG]


    The area marked in red is what the thermal pads cover

    [​IMG]


    So....

    My question is after I fit the VRM heatsinks, do I need to worry about cooling these additional capacitors? If I do, how can I do it?
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2015
  2. Crazy G

    Crazy G Guest

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    Thermal pads and heatsinks. Just did on mine TX SC and AAX IV. Also in the backplate I didn´t use the foam for the chip´s back but thermal pads as well. Overall got a 30° drop!!
     
  3. southamptonfc

    southamptonfc Ancient Guru

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    Aren't you worried that the heatsinks will fall off? Thermal pads + heatsink is fine when gravity keeps them down but mounted upside down doesn't seem like a good idea to me.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2015
  4. Crazy G

    Crazy G Guest

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    Well, I put aluminum heatsinks which is lighter than copper and there are some thermal pads that are quite sticky. Also there is a tape under the heatsinks which help to stick. If it falls off, I´ll install again. You can use thermal glue or make your own with fast cure epoxy and thermal grease, equal parts or more grease than epoxy to make easy to detach.

    P.S. or a very tiny drop of cyanoacrylate glue under the heatsinks and stick to the thermal pads
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2015

  5. Veteran

    Veteran Ancient Guru

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    This is how you do it, look at my Titan X below, what you want is some thermal padding at 0.5mm. Get some Fujipoly imported from the USA although damn expensive for the premium Fujipoly or just go for the usual Ek stuff etc.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2015
  6. southamptonfc

    southamptonfc Ancient Guru

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    Thanks but unfortunately the Arctic IV doesn't come with a plate to put onto the VRMs and caps behind them. Attaching a waterblock is a MUCH easier process than installing this Arctic IV.

    If you just use the kit as supplied, you will have no heatsinks directly attached to the VRMs.

    I have a plan though ;) I will post a full report once I'm finished hacking......
     
  7. Crazy G

    Crazy G Guest

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    Looking forward to see your cooling hack! Good luck!
     
  8. Pandora's Box

    Pandora's Box Member Guru

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    Why....Why have you put thermal paste on top of thermal pads? Also that's way too much thermal paste on the GPU...
     
  9. Tuoni

    Tuoni Guest

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    The whole point of the (huge) backplate of Xtreme IV is that you don't "need" to hassle any longer with gluing heatsinks to RAM/VRM. From the reviews that I've read it seems that the Xtreme IV does a pretty good job at keeping the VRM temperatures in check without any additional heatsinks installed on it.
    You might as well go with the Xtreme III and save some money if you're set on gluing heatsinks on the RAM/VRM.
    I'm pretty much forced to go with the Xtreme III as i can't run 2 cards in SLI with those two huge backplates of the Xtreme IV. :bonk:
     
  10. Veteran

    Veteran Ancient Guru

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    Its because im a nOOb and I don't know what im doing.

    EK recommend that in the instructions that come with the waterblock to put TIM on the pads also. I have a massive OC at 1590 fully stable in firestrike so the amount of TIM on there is just fine as its doing a good job. I also used 2 types of TIM cause I wanted to mix it up a bit and break away from the "norm".

    Only people I know to hit an OC higher than me and be stable on water is Jpmboy and Orthello although Orthello is running with sub-zero temps so the only one is Jpm. I aint seen nobody else go as high as me on water and be stable. My reading comes from GPUZ and not the buggy 3D Mark which gave me a reading of over 1720mhz! My Oc is legit and rock solid and I can post benchmarks to prove it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2015

  11. RPGgamesplayer

    RPGgamesplayer Guest

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    That looks right to me, as its definitely going by EK'S instructions I have done the same on many gpu's with ek blocks and got phenomenal results, you have got to remember Veteran is a enthusiast elitist and has been watercooling for some time now, he knows what he is doing, but yea i guess by going how much thermal paste you tend to put on cpu's you might find that picture tim heavy but its perfectly fine.
     
  12. southamptonfc

    southamptonfc Ancient Guru

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    So this is how I achieved proper cooling of the VRMs and other power components on the (.)an X with an Arctic Accelero IV.




    In addition to the AA4, you will also need low profile RAM heatsinks such as 2 packs of these:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8PCS-Pure...446?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5afc4abe46

    and some MOSFET (VRM) heatsinks such as 2 packs of these:

    http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/air-cooling/passive-coolers/7046/enzotech-mosfet-cooler-mos-c1-passive

    The (.)an cooler is totally destroyed doing this. You will need a hacksaw and a vice!




    There reference cooler has direct cooling of the power supply, the AA4 does not. The idea is to improve this.

    The area highlighted in blue is covered in thermal pads and connected to the cooler's bottom plate.

    The inductors highlighted in red are raised and so cooled by a large airflow straight from the blower.

    [​IMG]



    1. Move the thermal pads that come with the reference cooler to this arrangement:
    [​IMG]



    2. Disassemble the reference cooler:
    [​IMG]



    3. Mark out the area which covers the power components but not the VRMs:
    [​IMG]



    4. Cut out the plate. You also need to remove the high edges marked:
    [​IMG]



    5. Screw the plate back onto the card:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    6. Stick on the VRM and RAM coolers. Use the 4 spare to increase the plate cooling surface area:
    [​IMG]



    7. Cut down 8 MOSFET sinks so that when attached, they will be the same height as the ones attached to the VRMs. If you do not do this, they will be too high and hit the cooler. I used a pair of pliars to do this.

    Then attach them to the inductors:
    [​IMG]



    8. If you use the supplied thermal pad carefully, you can make it stretch to this:
    [​IMG]



    9. Assemble the card as per instruction. The G clamps have to do in slightly different places. Make sure you place them where they are not touching any PCB components.
    The finished card:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2015
    turina3 likes this.
  13. Crazy G

    Crazy G Guest

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    Nice report, thanks! Let us know the temperatures you achieve.
     
  14. Veteran

    Veteran Ancient Guru

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    Great mod, let us know the temps compared to stock cooler.
     
  15. southamptonfc

    southamptonfc Ancient Guru

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    The GPU hits 52C in Heaven with the fans at 50% which is more or less silent.

    I'm running at 1450 @ 1.2V. On the stock BIOS, there's no point in going any higher because you just bounce off the TDP limit.

    I'm can't really be bothered to go any higher at the moment. All the games I'm playing are running very nicely. OK so W3 totally maxed out drops down to 70fps but I can live with that :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2015

  16. Crazy G

    Crazy G Guest

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    Ambient temps? Any overclock in the 4790K?
     
  17. southamptonfc

    southamptonfc Ancient Guru

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    GPU:
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    ~21C ambient.

    The 4790K is running at 4.7ghz.
     
  18. Crazy G

    Crazy G Guest

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    Thanks! BTW, did you managed to get 4.8 or higher OC with the 4790k? I got to 4.8 but unstable.
     
  19. southamptonfc

    southamptonfc Ancient Guru

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    They are difficult to oc because of the stupid TIM. I was also unstable at 4.8. I'm sure it just needed voltage but wasn't worth the heat and noise.
     
  20. Veteran

    Veteran Ancient Guru

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    Nice nice that's very good, with a high volted bios you can still go higher looking at your temps not that you need too. Well done on the mod, good work. ;)
     

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