Discussion in 'Videocards - NVIDIA GeForce Drivers Section' started by JAMVA, Apr 6, 2017.
Upgrade or clean install of 1703? No issues here after a clean install.
This setting in the control panel works fine with HDMI on my panasonic plasma :nerd:
Win 10 x64 Creators Update ver 1703 - 15063.13
If anyone is using a TV as a monitor, such as myself for example. Why would you want to choose FULL output dynamic range? I've always set it to limited on my last few TV's that I've used as a monitor.
FULL output dynamic range is used with monitors, not TV's. If I set my 4K HDR Sony X800D TV to FULL dynamic range, shadows turn gray instead of staying black, and highlights become dull.
However, having said that I could switch between them using the nVidia Control Panel before, but as stated above, with this driver, when I choose FULL, screen goes black, then the control panel automatically reverts back to limited.
As suggested above, you can use Madvr Tweaker if you want to force it to FULL dynamic range.
+1 fully agreed.
Monitor --> Full + RGB
TV --> Limited + RGB/YCbCr (depend)
My TV accepts a Full RGB input
You have to change the black level on the OLED to 'high' though.
Full is for monitor,limited is for tv
I can't re-install this driver or the Geforce experience now.
The driver says checking system compatibility and then just stops and the Geforce experience green bar gets 90% along and again just stops. No error message or anything
Any idea how I can get around this?
Tested idle temp/voltages with 378.92 and 381.65 drivers, both on Windows 10 CU
Asus Strix 1070 OC, fan turned off
378.92 : minimum voltage 0.625-0.65V, temp 27-30
381.65 : minimum voltage 0.7V, temp 32-35
Why? is this a bug or a new feature that keeps the idle voltage just a bit higher than usual?
EDIT: no apps running, no msi afterburner, just everything stock looking at gpu-z window.
Each driver was installed after a proprer DDU cleaning
You can use full RGB or limited RGB with newer televisions. The key is that you just want to make sure your settings match whatever your TV is set to. That's usually under the TV settings under "black levels."
If you plan to use Full RGB on your PC or game console, you want to make sure that your TV is set to the same thing. Ditto with Limited...which isn't really any worse no matter how it sounds.
It's when they're mismatched when you see blacks turning into gray or blacks that are so deep that they have no detail ("crush").
The exception seems to be with the Xbox One. I have yet to hear of anyone who can make PC RGB work using a television. It "works" but you can't ever see the closed eye and sun character in the configuration options. Yet it seems to work just fine (no matter what your TV is set to) if you just use the normal TV setting.
I keep mine set to Limited just because it seems like all of my devices use the same gamma settings with Limited while they're all over the place if I use Full. I have everything routed through an AVR into a single input, so consistency is important to me. That and I don't think any of us can tell the difference between the two settings as long as they're configured properly.
Most modern TVs are able to receive full dynamic range just fine. Higher dynamic range means more brightness details.
I use full on my TV monitor and projector, the difference is very clear to see.
Those suggesting to only use limited perhaps dont understand what the setting does.
Fair enough if it makes no difference on your display, but I also recommend a new display to get better colour resolution.
After all your gfx card is using its power to process at full colour depth, its a shame not to see them.
Many set it to limited as that is what the majority of video sources are, with games etc.. it's not as simple.
I also use an AVR and unfortunately here is no convenient way of doing things when you have multiple sources.
I had to use DDU, install 378.92 and then 381.65 as trying to install 381.65 after DDU on 1703 I'd just get a blank screen and reboot when it went to install the driver. Something is definitely messed up with 1703 and 381.65 ... I think they didn't do nearly enough testing. I've never had so many problems before ... usually things just work great.
Why you need to install 378.92 as base? Since u updated 1703 then stick with 381.65.
Interesting , i have the same :3eyes:
Last time i took a screenshot:-
Win 10 x64 Creators Update ver 1703 - 15063.138
we're not alone
my MSI:AB v4.3.0 @ 0 mV but GPU-Z v1.18.0 @ 0.681 V
the "absolute" number doesn't mean anything, each card is different.
you should check the same voltage with 37x drivers
0.66V with 381.65, but it was 0.62 before! and look at the temperatures!!
That little difference in voltage, as you can see, can increase temperatures by 5-10 degrees when the card is working fanless.
My card never goes below 0.7V with 381.65, but with 37x drivers it stayed around 0.65V. Fans off, I can also see a difference of about 5-7° in idle.
Anyone else having problems with these on Windows 10 Creators Update (fresh install as well) causing a corrupted screen during a cold boot? Otherwise running perfectly stable during gaming etc.