ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q - How unlucky can you get?

Discussion in 'Computer Monitor Forum' started by Darren Hodgson, Jun 3, 2017.

  1. Darren Hodgson

    Darren Hodgson Ancient Guru

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    I've noticed some minor colour banding on this display that I hadn't noticed before on my Dell monitor. Nothing too major, just on the loading screens of a couple of games (I think one was Dishonored 2). Now it may be that it was there before and I never noticed it (perhaps because the screen was less bright) but could it be caused by incorrect settings or mismatched ICC profiles?
     
  2. RealNC

    RealNC Maha Guru

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    In the majority of cases, banding is an issue with the game, not the monitor. Many games don't convert to the correct color space during frame buffer color conversion and/or don't apply dithering. It is visible with all monitors, because the banding is actually what it's supposed to look like (not by intention, but due to developer oversight.)
     
  3. Darren Hodgson

    Darren Hodgson Ancient Guru

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    I think you are right.

    I checked a review of this monitor on TFTCentral and they recommend using 25% brightness setting for the best IQ in terms of blacks, contrast and colour reproduction. Mine was set to 80% brightness out of the box and I lowered that to 50% straight away. This gave a nice, bright, vibrant image on the desktop and games but made colour banding more visible. I have now lowered it further to 35% brightness (25% seems fine too but whites do not look white enough for my liking so I've compromised!). This makes the banding less obvious now.
     
  4. fantaskarsef

    fantaskarsef Ancient Guru

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    That's what I did too with my XB270HU, checked on TFTCentrall for their settings and the file you can add (can't recall what it's extension was) to save the color profile, and used their settings. I like how thourough they are with their testing and searching for the best settings.
     

  5. Darren Hodgson

    Darren Hodgson Ancient Guru

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    My last three monitors, including this one, were bought from recommendations of TFTCentral so they are the first site I visit when checking out reviews. I use their settings but not their ICC profiles (because these are specific calibrations for their screen only).

    Anyway, I found 25/26 Brightness to be a bit too dark for my liking even at night with the lights off so I've now settled on 40 which looks good without washing colours in some games.

    I had a hiccup happen last night with G-SYNC though while playing around with NVIDIA's G-SYNC Pendulum demo v1.10. Because I didn't understand how that demo worked in regards to framerate caps I assumed that adding a profile for it and changing from G-SYNC to High Refresh Rate would prevent the low framerates I was seeing. However, when I applied the setting it somehow "broke" G-SYNC because I was unable to click on the G-SYNC button in the demo plus the power light on the monitor changed from Red to White (indicating G-SYNC was disabled).

    So I checked the global profile settings to make sure G-SYNC was enabled (it was for fullscreen and windowed) and that V-Sync was set to On (again, it was). I then restarted my PC.

    The monitor light was still white though and the Pendulum demo still refused to let activate the G-SYNC button. I had to basically disable G-SYNC in the NVIDIA control panel and re-enable it to fix this at which point the monitor light changed from white to red.

    Not sure if this is a bug with the control panel, since it seemed to deactivate when I applied the settings to change from G-SYNC to High Refresh Rate for the per-game Pendulum demo. This should not have happened but it acted as if I'd changed it globally. :3eyes:
     
  6. Darren Hodgson

    Darren Hodgson Ancient Guru

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    I finally got the replacement monitor this morning at 10am, which should have come last Sunday. Fortunately, it *does* come with the UK cloverleaf lead/plug that was missing from the original box so I've just pinched that and swapped it out for the third-party Lindy one I had been using in the meantime. I wanted the lead that is supposed to come with the monitor, for obvious reasons, but the only difference appears to be that the one that comes with the monitor is 2m and has a 3A fuse versus the 1m and 5A fuse of the Lindy one. I will keep the Lindy one as a backup.

    I haven't tested the second monitor yet though as I'm happy with the one I am using now. I might check the build date though to see if is later than the August 2016 of the one I have. I almost feel that I should test it to see how the backlight compares between the two (even though I haven't noticed any bleeding on the one I have).
     
  7. Darren Hodgson

    Darren Hodgson Ancient Guru

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    I have just tested the replacement monitor which was built in February 2017 so being six months newer I was curious to see how it compared with the one I have from August 2016. Initial impressions were positive as the screen appeared to even with patchiness but when I tested a fullscreen 4K black screen image I noticed backlight bleed in the top-right hand corner on 50% brightness. This was even more obvious when I increased the brightness to 100%. Definitely could not live with that. :(

    The original monitor, which I decided to keep over the replacement, has possibly some very, very slight backlight bleed in the top-right corner but I had to set the brightness to 100% to see it and even then I'm not entirely sure it's there, that's how difficult it is to spot (and it may not even be backlight bleed...). At 50% brightness it is not noticeable at all so it does look like I got a good panel after all even though it is almost 10 months old.
     
  8. RealNC

    RealNC Maha Guru

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    Note that blacklight bleed can change, since it can be pressure-related. A monitor that was just switched on might have more bleed than a monitor that was on for a couple hours.

    When checking for BLB, it's best to leave the monitor on for about an hour first so it warms up.
     

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