Discussion in 'General Hardware' started by Veteran, May 5, 2012.
ewww its a glossy screen no thanks good deal though if you don't mind that
My screen has a buzz when a lot of white is displayed on the screen. On the overclock.net page for these monitors they have a fix for that by putting epoxy on the part generating the buzz however i don't have any. Would it be possible to fix it by maybe putting some cardboard in there between the metal and the diode to stop it vibrating? What other ways could i fix this?
Their fix + pics are here under "Monitor Buzzing? Try This . . . "
LOL, you have no idea how much I hate my Dell U2312HM because of it's "anti glare" (anti clarity) coating. I've thoroughly looked into methods of removing it and if it didn't expose the polarizer directly I would have removed it long ago. I'll take glare and reflection any day over having the image of an IPS ruined by it looking like someone glued large salt crystals on the screen.
My old TN panel looks superior simply because it didn't use this anti glare coating. Having superior colours is meaningless if it's completely obstructed by a grainy rainbow-ish/sparkle effect that makes white look grey.
Out of this lot, which one would you buy from? Are all these monitors the same?
If so I would like to make sure I get one without any dead pixels. I'm not paying for something with dead pixels!
Thanks guys. Really need the advice.
To those that have already bought this monitor:
1) Is it easy to get 120hz?
2) What is the screen like? Colours, banding, backlight bleed.
1) Only monitors from 120hz.net are overclockable, the ones on ebay are not.
2) The screen is excellent as long as you get a good one (these are A-, so they all carry minor defects, but these are often present in A+ monitors that Apple/Dell sell as well...)
Buy from green-sum or bigclothcraft, they are the best sellers. They make returns smooth in case the unit is DOA or something happens to it, unlike most other sellers.
There is a lot of information about monitor differences around the web, for the example if you want a Yamakasi, SE means no speakers, if it doesn't say SE then it means it has speakers (usually will be mentionned though). Multi means multiple inputs (HDMI, VGA, etc). SE is the most popular one because it provides the least input lag compared to all other high end IPS monitors.
As for dead pixels... it's best you HOPE you get dead pixels in corners and such instead of other issues that could have tagged your monitor to be A-, because backlight bleed/yellow or blue tint is much more noticeable than these pixels because at 2560x1440, they are simply invisible to the eye unless you're 5cm close. Paying the extra 70$ for pixel perfect is a waste of money and often, people still get some. What a scam, I know right.
Thanks for that. What do you mean, minor defects?
Also how do I search for a buyer to find the ones you mentioned? I just tried in the search box and nothing!
I brought one from green sum
64Hz is the max i could get.
My screen is almost perfect other then 1 dead green sub pixel and 1 slightly dim green sub pixel in a corner but i can't really complain much since i didn't get a pixel perfect model. It also has a buzz with a lot of white on the screen that some others have reported but it can be fixed, I'm just lazy. My back lightling is perfectly even and monitor was perfectly calibrated out of the box. I did find the back light a bit bright at max so i turned the brightness on the screen down a bit (seems to be just back light brightness) and now its great.
The screens are made from panels that apple have turned down due to minor defects i believe. That is why the price is cheap.
I have one of these 27" displays from 120hz.net.
The "2B" stands for the month it was made (IIRC February).
So the new 120+hz capable displays sold at 120hz.net will not say "2B" on them, as they are made now and not in the past.
A limited run that 120hz.net is selling is a current display (G+, etc), using some left over parts from the old B versions.
So mine does 120+hz @ 2560x1440, is not a "2B" serial number, but has a '"2B" board inside'.
[Before 120hz.net was around] the early models (A,B) used a different board that was faster than the later versions (C,D,E...).
Outside of the limited run arranged by 120hz.net, all serial numbers after "B" do not overclock.
Having lived with a glossy for last 6 months, its the only thing I'll buy from now on.
Glossy is great in a dark room. Can be a pita in a bright room, depending what you are doing.
I love glossy screens in dark rooms.
Glossy screen just looks superior in every way compared to my old TN with AG.
Someone mentioned that these are monitors rejected from other companies for one reason or another. So I guess the chances of me getting a dud is quiet high?
If I wanted to make sure I don't get a dud but get the same quality screen which other brand should I go for (I mean which companies are rejecting these?)
Batches are sampled for quality, and rated.
If too many displays are found to have bad pixels, then that batch is rated lower (A, A-, etc).
Within a batch, there are perfect displays, and imperfect displays.
A lower rating means that the odds of getting an imperfect display are higher.
It won't mean that you will get a worse display.
Mine happens to be perfect, as are many other people's displays ... and some people have dead pixels.