Discussion in 'Videocards - NVIDIA GeForce' started by AvengerUK, Jun 1, 2015.

1. ### jim2point0Maha Guru

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GPU:
Asus Strix 2080TI
My SC+ OCs particularly well, but it does use a custom BIOS.

If I were to get my hands on a Classified AND it performs a lot better, I might sell the SC+ and try to get another Classified. But in the meantime, I'd run these in SLI. If it turns out to perform about the same as the SC+, then I would just keep the SC+.

I've never really messed with those super high-end cards though. It'd be worth a little extra money to play around with one for a bit. But I'm skeptical that I'd get a massive performance difference using a Classified on air. Those things seem like they're meant to be water\ln2 cooled. Even if they are binned chips.

Last edited: Jul 8, 2015
2. ### wrathlokiMaha Guru

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GPU:
Gigabyte 980 Ti G1
Had no idea what you were alluding to or that he was getting 1530. For me a classified would be a big upgrade considering I can only manage 1438.

3. ### kakarotMaha Guru

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evga 980ti sc+
Yes but its all luck. Some will get cards that hit the sky and others will cry they cant get 50MHz out of it, brand and make makes no difference. Never seen any classified or lightning crying posts? I have the same exact card as you guys sitting at 1300(1528)/8000 since day one. It's not magic, its just luck

4. ### wrathlokiMaha Guru

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GPU:
Gigabyte 980 Ti G1
Make does make a difference. They'll be choosing better binned cards for Classified. No way they're going to use their best just for a reference card.

5. ### jim2point0Maha Guru

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GPU:
Asus Strix 2080TI
They choose the better binned chips to meet the target clock speed (1291 boost), but that does not guarantee overclock potential. Nothing guarantees overclock potential, really.

You're more likely to hit a higher OC ceiling on the better binned chips, but again, that's not a certainty. Especially on air cooling.

It comes down to whether or not you're willing spend an extra $30-$50 on what is essentially a better shot at winning the GPU lottery.

6. ### wrathlokiMaha Guru

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1,477
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GPU:
Gigabyte 980 Ti G1
My guess is that they're binned at their max potential. Otherwise someone with an SC could end up with the same overclocking potential as a Classified which seems silly from a business standpoint. Why give the customer a chip for less that has the same potential as something they could charge more for?

7. ### kakarotMaha Guru

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GPU:
evga 980ti sc+
That's pretty much all there is to it bud. A better chance? Definitely. Is the chance worth a few extra ? Without doubt. Is it guaranteed to be better? Hell no.

8. ### MineriaAncient Guru

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GPU:
Asus RTX 2080 Super
Move them cables so they face the motherboard and route them behind the motherboard side with zip-ties.

9. ### jim2point0Maha Guru

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GPU:
Asus Strix 2080TI
From Kingpin himself (posted at his forums)

Kinda makes me satisfied that I could go over 1500 at all. I don't there being a huge improvement with a Classified, at least not on air cooling. I'm just not dedicated enough to switch to water cooling, or anything more hardcore for that matter.

10. ### wrathlokiMaha Guru

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1,477
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GPU:
Gigabyte 980 Ti G1
My card is 78% ASIC but I can only momentarily get 1.224 and it drops down to 1.199 once the fan ramps up a bit. So in my case a modded BIOS or Classified card would be of great benefit. Suppose if you're already getting the clocks you are there's no point in pushing it further though. How is it that I could have such a high ASIC yet have such difficulty overclocking?

11. ### VeteranAncient Guru

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GPU:
2xTitan XM@1590Mhz-CH20
Cooling.

12. ### VeteranAncient Guru

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GPU:
2xTitan XM@1590Mhz-CH20
Depends on whether the classy comes with a beefed up PCB compared to reference cards. Tbh i may just get myself an EVbot (if i can find one) and just run with classys from now on after the Titan X because it seems to be the only cards that you can Oc the **** out of with hardly any restrictions.

13. ### wrathlokiMaha Guru

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1,477
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GPU:
Gigabyte 980 Ti G1
Doesn't get that hot, 76c max. Or does lowering the temperature actually affect stability? Fan's only getting to 45% at 76 so if I raise the fan speeds and lower the temperature might I get a more stable overclock?

14. ### kakarotMaha Guru

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GPU:
evga 980ti sc+
Try running the fan 1:1 (50%@50c...) and see if it helps which I have no doubt it definitely will. Also asic don't mean crap tbh, mine is only 70%

15. ### wrathlokiMaha Guru

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GPU:
Gigabyte 980 Ti G1
What does OV mean in Furmark? Overvolt? Is it bad if I'm overvolting?

16. ### -Tj-Ancient Guru

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GPU:
Zotac GTX980Ti OC
^
I wouldn't bother with Furmark, try realworld benchmarks/games.

:thumbup: cool looks like a great upgrade at that reso, have fun!

17. ### wrathlokiMaha Guru

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GPU:
Gigabyte 980 Ti G1
I always use furmark, heaven and games to test stability. I've had overclocks stable in games and heaven and not in furmark or games stable in furmark and games but not heaven so I think it's good to test with all.

18. ### wrathlokiMaha Guru

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GPU:
Gigabyte 980 Ti G1
So I tried the 1:1 fan profile and pushed the voltage to +87mv I was able to do +150/+350 with 1478 boost stable for 5 minutes in furmark and a pass of heaven with a max temp of 70c, so a slight gain by boosting the fans. I'd go for longer to make certain that it's stable but I've noticed that around 70% fan speed the fans start to whine very loudly. They almost sound as if they're scraping against something, like if you very lightly pushed your fingernail into the moving fan. I'm guessing this means I need to RMA? I know fans should get loud at 70% but it should be an air whooshing sound not a high pitched whine, right?

Edit: Also I have the fan profile going from 0% fan speed at 40c to 50% fan speed at 50c just because having the fans on at 2D clocks is totally pointless but I've noticed that when the fan first ramps up it jumps up to 100% for a second then back down to 50%. What's up with that?

Last edited: Jul 9, 2015
19. ### kakarotMaha Guru

Messages:
1,108
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GPU:
evga 980ti sc+
Keep the ram at stock for now and go easy on the voltage. Going straight to max is a bad idea and will only work against you and so is doing both ram and gpu when you don't know the breaking point of either. Find your max at stock voltage and then do small +25 steps on the voltage

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