Note; at first I didnt think mx3 had done much, having used it over the weekend it really has made a difference, card runs much quieter. Hi all, I've been looking over 6950 threads having got mine, and have seen that a few people are considering removing the stock cooler or replacing the TIM. Wanted to say a few words. First of those is at your own risk, and sorry if this has been said before. :nerd: This is for the release 6950 pcb only!!!! If In doubt do not try! -heatsink removal is very, very simple. You need a medium cross head and a small cross head screwdriver. -remove all the screws from the backplate NOT the heatsink plate (heatsink plate meaning 4 smaller screws connected with a separate metal plate above the core.) -remove the two screws on the rear plate (the bit with the metal vent in it), NOT the screw above the dvi connector. -then unscrew the heatsink plate, do NOT unscrew one screw at a time; loosen either side of the core gradually until they come off, take your time, do NOT slip. At this point check you have all screws out. From here it is the core attaching to the TIM attaching to the heatsink that is holding pcb/heatsink together...leading me on to the TIM. I want to say it is bad but to be honest experience has taught me it does a job. Here are some pics; It is layered on, it is like putty and it makes terrible, uneven contact (see core shot). Having said that it was intended to work with gravity against it hung upside down; not rely on pure pressure; my results are four degrees better with the more liquid mx3 on the core. Once all screws are out you can gradually lever off the pcb from the heatsink. This is where you need to be extra careful. Slow and steady pressure where there was movement got mine off. A piece of clear stretchy plastic gave way when I took the heatsink off- I think this is anti tamper- it has no other reason for being there; HIS card; it is of no consequence and is stuck to the block near the vrms. (see the bigger rectangular white sticker below) CAREFUL ONCE THE PCB COMES AWAY- THE FAN IS STILL ATTACHED- wouldnt bother unplugging it! You can fold the two parts apart now, and lay them separate. From here you will not be able to get the original TIM off without a TIM cleaner or isopropyl alcohol; it is like putty. The vapour chamber baseplate looked like something you might find in a scrapyard. It was awful. I had a few bits of 1200 grit sandpaper and polished off the worst but do not lap it- it is too thin, 1200 grit cleaned it rather than removed copper. I put VERY (really very) small amounts of mx3 on the indentations of the vrm heatsink, and put a double grain of rice bang centre of the core- double due to lack of mounting pressure; I wanted a good contact. Screwing it all up is simple. (on re reading pun most certainly intended!) As per temps; EDIT- when I first wrote it didnt seem to change much, given mx3 isnt meant to change I assumed that was that. As is there is a big difference, I cant gauge in temps but my gpu with a custom fan profile is much quieter. Vrms are down 4 degrees@load, worth the muck about. With an aftermarket cooler I can see massive benefits here due to better, even mounting and the air not being pre heated by the vrms. Would I recommend doing what I did...EDIT- after using for a while- so long as you know your card works ok, yes, for a quids worth of mx3, its worth it. If an aftermarket cooler comes out for these things I will be right on it. A well designed cooler will permit 1000 core woth extra shaders, silently, making these cards immense value.