3090 Owner's thread

Discussion in 'Videocards - NVIDIA GeForce' started by XenthorX, Sep 24, 2020.

  1. JaxMacFL

    JaxMacFL Ancient Guru

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    Actually gpu is overclocked, comes that way. You’re good.
     
  2. kakiharaFRS

    kakiharaFRS Master Guru

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    well didn't know or see the Bykski top bottom block news so..I pre-ordered the very expensive EK Vector kit (both blocks) and it just arrived

    I hope I'll crash less because I'm currently running an alphacool block and the backplate contact with vram is really bad, I had to replace one of the pad by one I had and there's still one vram chip that barely/don't touch properly I'm sure the block would be fine for a 3080 but I really don't recommend it for 3090 owners the back vram contact is clearly an after-tought it also looks absolutely fugly and ther rgb looks so bad I disconnected it edit : I never saw cpuz vram values above 75°C but I never tried to mine on it or really use vram

    hoping the EK will have great cooling because it looks 100x better will post pictures later maybe tomorrow
     
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  3. kakiharaFRS

    kakiharaFRS Master Guru

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    here you go : https:// postimg .cc/gallery/34tDnYB (you will have to fix the url, it's censored by guru3d)

    - backplate EK RGB doesn't look good, main block is okay, better than alphacool for sure I won't use any of it as Corsair RGB > all, the reflective backplate makes it shine anyway

    - liquid is EKWB Acid Green and those aren't photoshopped no HDR or AI tweaking I only "cheated" by using max brightness in iCue when usually I have it to as low as possible, I also have no UV leds that's just from regular blue lighting if I switch to other colors with no or low blue the effect disappears, I flushed the system with ironing/aquarium distilled water before filling it with Cryofuel and had very little to do to have the bubbles go away those pictures have been taken like 1hr after filling the system

    - below my 1st quick test just to see if temps looked okay, I will do my usual set of benchmarks which will take a day >< but I don't expect good results, unrelated to the blocks, my system was running poorly before the installation I get weird stuttering and general instability thanks to windows, nvidia drivers or the rebar firmware update (which I can't use) not sure...EDIT:also had customized nvidia settings really don't mind the score it's meaningless

    - 1st thing I noticed the rear fan exhausts cold air now even while benchmarking, I could reverse it I know it will give me better temps but with a less than ideal 7-3 intake/exhaust ratio it creates an annoying whistle

    - the two blocks weigh 1422g alone before mounting them on the videocard, using a support/bracket is recommended (LianLi case has as stealth system for that)
    IMG_20210421_090217.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Apr 21, 2021
  4. kakiharaFRS

    kakiharaFRS Master Guru

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    GPU:
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    finished with my testing
    - scores are sometimes higher but often lower, I don't have the same firmware and my card is (still) power limited to 350w so the comparison is worthless EDIT : antivirus was destroying my perfs when uninstalled I gained 14k on 3dmark wildlife...from 81940 to 96592 :rolleyes:
    - gpu temp was constantly +2°C and water also seem to be +1-2°C
    - the non watercooled part of the backplate near the power connector stays cold instead of burning your fingers
    - the watercooled part of the backplate gets slightly warm on top of the gpu but nowhere near what it was with a classic backplate
    - the rear case fan now exhausts cold air (seems colder than ambient) and mildly warm like 33°C air when benchmarking not like the hair dryer effect you get with a regular backplate

    now I also downgraded my rads from 30-60-30 thickness to 30-30-30mm I wanted to try it since QL fans have low static pressure and I could barely feel the air from the ones in front of the 60mm rad
    but I still think that the +2°C come from the heat removed from the backplate I mean the backplate is cold and the rear fan doesn't exhaust heat anymore so I guess most of it went into the loop

    edit : my computer is almost never blue (bad for the eyes) but this combo of blue lighting/fluorescent green liquid is a sure way to detect leaks, great for your peace of mind ;)
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2021

  5. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    Hi @kakiharaFRS

    Active backplate from EK looks awesome, temperatures are great but I assume you don't OC VRAM at all and you are running stock BIOS(370-375W)?

    With such low VRAM temperatures you should be able push VRAM quite easily to 1200MHz and core try 105MHz

    My VRAM temperatures are in 60's on top one and on bottom one are in mid to high 70's but core temperatures won't break 36-38°C

    Thanks, Jura
     
  6. TheDigitalJedi

    TheDigitalJedi Ancient Guru

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    Hello everyone. Is anyone using their 3090 on a LG OLED television? C9 or CX? With the 3000 series there are times when the video doesn't post. I witnessed this on the 3080 as well. My current little remedy is having the computer in sleep mode. A signal always returns when waking up the PC. If I shut down the PC completely or restart, posting issues return. Sometimes I see a black screen and my curser.

    My 2000 series card post video each time.
     
  7. TheDigitalJedi

    TheDigitalJedi Ancient Guru

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    I went with the Alienware Aurora R11 in November 2020. I didn't do a build due to a lack of parts. I've read that other 3000 series users are seeing this malfunction.
     
  8. Dragam1337

    Dragam1337 Ancient Guru

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    GPU:
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    It's not a malfunction, but a bug... there is a bios update for the gpu that fixes this.
     
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  9. kakiharaFRS

    kakiharaFRS Master Guru

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    GPU:
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    Avast Antivirus was causing major stutter/freez/ctd/blue screen problems with the RTX 3090, hardcore instability I tought that my cpu was dying or the gpu was faulty no idea what they changed or of it's trying to stealth crypto-mine >< with my card but all my problems disappeared after uninstallation

    didn't try to overclock because it's a 2 connectors reference design KFA2/GALAX SG I was hitting the 350w power limit nonstop
    yesterday I tried the 390w bios https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/226727/226727 (which is older than my original one) and yeah I was obviously power limited since all my scores went up..some big time still no overclock and not point as I game on a 1080p monitor (maybe not for long ^^)

    highest temps I've seen while benchmarking are :
    gpu 47°C
    GPU Memory 54°C
    GP Hotspot 60°C
    3x360mm corsair hydroX with (weak static pressure) QL120 fans liquid temp 34.80°C
    with Unigine Superposition 4K Optimized that was the last benchmark after 4hrs of doing other benchmarks (room temp was around 25°C)
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2021
  10. TheDigitalJedi

    TheDigitalJedi Ancient Guru

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    Thank you Dragam1337. Looking forward to reporting my results.
     

  11. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    Temperatures are okay although I would expect bit better temperatures similar to my temperatures

    On good waterblocks like Optimus you should see delta between the GPU core and GPU hot-spot in region of 8-10°C and on others like EKWB, Bykski etc you should see 10-13°C GPU core and GPU hot-spot delta(this what I'm seeing on my Bykski Waterblocks), on air coolers I would expect something similar delta in region of 10-13°C

    I think there is REBAR 390W BIOS of KFA2/Galax BIOS or KFA2 390W with REBAR

    I'm using on my both RTX 3090 GamingPro's KPE XOC 1000W BIOS and no issues

    Yup fans are not the best, try get better fans which would help too, assuming you have Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL? If yes try remove top and bottom filters and remove unused PCI_E slot covers

    Corsair Radiators are rebranded HWLabs LS360 and they're bit restrictive and they're sometimes are on par with the HWLabs GTS360

    Hope this helps

    Thanks, Jura
     
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  12. Cave Waverider

    Cave Waverider Maha Guru

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    Doesn't the EK version have dual bios like the regular ASUS cards?
     
  13. Rootax

    Rootax Member Guru

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    GPU:
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    Hello there, I join the club with a 3090 MSI Suprim X o/

    I won't overclock it, I'm even using it with the "silent" bios. Temps are good, noise is good to okay depending on temp of course. Memory is under 95c in games. A little hot but within specs. This thing is massive... Very happy with it for now.
     
  14. JaxMacFL

    JaxMacFL Ancient Guru

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    Congrats Very nice card. You got to put the juice to it. That is what it was made for. Come on, you don’t buy a muscle car to drive to the grocery store now, do you?
     
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  15. insp1re2600

    insp1re2600 Ancient Guru

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    how much did that cost?
     

  16. Rootax

    Rootax Member Guru

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    Not scalpers price, but over msrp (not by a lot). Let's say a contact helped me to get one before it hits the retail market (sorry for my english :/ )
     
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  17. insp1re2600

    insp1re2600 Ancient Guru

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    Nice one, English is fine by the way.
     
  18. kakiharaFRS

    kakiharaFRS Master Guru

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    I know QL fans are pretty much the worst for radiators ahaha I have non-rgb Noctuas and bequiet I'm weak I chose rgb over performance :oops:
    but rgb is not all they have, the make a smoother less annoying "woosh" sound, lower noise than most fans, noctua and bequiet that I have (and tried so I know they cool better) make an annoying high pitched whine, QL push less air but even at +100-200rpm they make less noise than other brands even supposedly quiet ones
    I dremel cut all the grills from the lian li case and only have dust filters left, no way I'm removing them too much dust

    I knew Corsair was rebranded HWlabs radiators and bitspower fittings but I didn't knew which models nor if they were good or not thanks

    and about the temps I regret my move of replacing one 60mm rad by a 30mm (it was a test) I'm not 100% certain it's because of that and not the backplate but I've got really weird things
    - liquid temp going slightly up after switching from 1200rpm to max fan speed, previously as soon as I set them to 100% the liquid temp went down immediately
    - it takes almost double the time it did to reduce liquid temp
    - after testing it yesterday I see little change in cooling between 1200rpm and max fan speed
    it feels like rads are "to the max" whatever fan speed I have so since I'm never satisfied I'm going to replace two 30mm rads by 60s (space for 2 only) I already have one

    on the positive side my case currently exhaust almost no heat the backplate makes an obvious enhancement on that aspect without it my rear and top fans exhausted really hot air, now mildly warm, when I say really hot imagine that when I was fully air cooled with a threadripper after 9hrs of video encoding my room temp was 38°C that's what I call "hot" :eek:
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2021
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  19. Cave Waverider

    Cave Waverider Maha Guru

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    Hm. It sounds like the heat isn't being transferred away from the components. Is your waterflow too restricted, perhaps? Maybe you could try increasing the pump speed and/or taking one of your radiators out of the loop and see if that helps.

    On a related note, for the past half a year or so, I've been in the process of acquiring parts for the custom loop for my white O11 Dynamic XL with the G1 distro plate, I've got two Corsair XR5 radiators which were the only white ones I was able to acquire for a decent price (got them on sale). Do you think they will restrict my water flow too much? Looking at my case, I'll have to keep at least one of these on top as there wouldn't be enough room for fans with a 60mm thick one, but I may be able to perhaps swap the bottom one out for a 60mm Alphacool Nexxxos 360 SE later - or maybe even add a 420 version and mount it in the front of the case as my custom frontplate has mounts for 3x140 fans...not sure if it would fit with the other two radiators, though.
    I'm Planning to get the EK Waterblock and active Backplate combo once that's available for the RTX 3090 Strix as well (EK support told me to expect it by the end of April/beginning of May. Or I'll get another alternative in case that becomes available first). I also have a white Corsair XC7 CPU block that I got pretty cheap, but I'm pondering if I shouldn't just go for the EK Monoblock for my Z390 Aorus Master mainboard instead (the downside being that it won't be reusable with a different Mainboard/CPU down the line). I also want to use Koolance QD3 quick disconnects on my components so I can swap them out quickly and without much hassle if I upgrade anything, too. In case I can buy them anywhere in the EU for a fair price, that is.
    I'm not sure about the fans either. My current cheap chinese €1 RGB fans (which were always just meant as placeholders until I have the budget to get better ones on sale or something - although they seemed to have worked alright with my AIO CPU cooler) probably won't be good enough if others have problems with high quality Corsair QL fans already. Which white RGB fans would be good enough for a loops such as the one that I'm planning? I like the look of the Corsair QL fans, but if they aren't good enough, what other options do I have? Is LL any better? I kind of like the idea of Lian Li Unifans, too, as they look nice enough and will make cable management so much easier.
    Any ideas?
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2021
  20. jura11

    jura11 Ancient Guru

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    @kakiharaFRS

    When it comes to fans, I prefer Phanteks PH-F120MP or Arctic Cooling P12 PWM or F12 too are good for radiators, although new Noctua A12x25 are one of the best fans for radiators, Noiseblocker eLoop are my other favourites and new Thermalright TL-B12 fans which are Nidec Servo Gentle Typhoon type fans, BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 fans too are quite nice fans

    Which BeQuiet or Noctua did you run? They shouldn't make any whine noise, usually whine noise can be found on some fans from EK Vardars or Gentle Typhoons, some people report that on Arctic Cooling P12 fans which I literally can't hear, I'm running in total 38 fans in my loop and loudest fan is on my Superflower 8pack 2000w PSU

    Agree with Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL, I built there in total 3 loops and every one of them have absolutely different temperatures hahaha, used exactly same parts and GPUs, what I changed are fans and finding there right fan combo for builds has been nightmare

    If you can use 60mm radiators then use it, personally I'm running on top 2*360mm radiators(HWLabs SR-2 360mm), bottom one are 2*360mm radiators(Magicool G2 360mm 30mm radiators) and MO-ra3 360mm, MO-ra3 360mm helps a lot with lower temperatures, planning get another one hahaha, currently my PC pulls something like 1200-1300W from wall when I render in Redshift, Octane or Cycles

    Assuming you are running D5 pump or DDC pump? If you are running DDC pump I would ditch it and get D5 pump and run it in higher speeds, GTS or HWLabs LS series are restrictive radiators and they need flow rate, I personally wouldn't use HWLabs LS series radiators, if you are on tight budget maybe yes but for such money you can get Magicool or even Alphacool radiators or XSPC radiators which are great too

    I have run 360mm radiator with 240mm 60mm radiator in Enthoo Primo with 3*GPUs setup and my water delta T has been in 6-7°C in rendering and that loop pulled from wall 1000-1100W during the rendering and temperatures on GPUs(GTX1080Ti with 2113MHz OC, GTX1080 with 2164MHz OC and GTX1080 with 2128MHz OC) never broke 40°C, but at such loop I needed to run fans in 1200RPM range, if I would run fans below that water delta T would rise to 8-10°C

    If you are not running get Aquacomputer Quadro or OCTO fan controller and base fans on water temperature or water delta T

    Hope this helps

    Thanks, Jura
     
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