Possible (or it's exactly) degradation on my RTX 2080 Ti Gaming x Trio

Honestly, I never thought it was truely degradation in the first place, but good you sorted it out. Now remember which brand you baught and... don't do it next time, since they messed it up. If the paste was correctly applied, you wouldn't need temp junction tbh

 

Yep, you're right. But for now I stay with my original bios with 110% power limit. Honestly, I doubted 400watt was a good idea for 12nm with air cooling in the first place but I still used it.

 

Hmm, may repaste my GPU as well to be sure.

What paste do you guys recommend for GPUs?

 

This is my first time using kryonaut, so far it's good, but other side says if you use kryonaut don't let it get expossed with temperature >80 degrees c, otherwise it'll degrade rapidly within days. For whatever reason, don't use NT-H1 for gpu, it's good for 3-4 four months, after that, the temperature gradually increase and you will be forced to repaste it again. Trust me, I kept doing that on my 980 Ti, and 1080 Ti because in my city, it was the best option available aside from deep cool one.

 

This is really interesting since I've got Kryonaut on my CPU and I feel that the temps are 5-6 degrees higher now than when I first applied the paste. I put Arctic Silver 5 on a friends 3700X with the same Dark Rock Pro 4 as I have and he's got 7 degrees lower temps.

 

I used Gelid extreme on my 1080ti and got around 5C drop.
The original paste wasnt covering the whole GPU, a corner was bare.

 

https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/guru3d-thermal-paste-roundup-2019,1.html
Its CPU/GPU agnostic btw.

 

Except for Conductonaut, I wouldn't use that on the GPU.
I wouldn't use it on the CPU either except under the IHS. But at least if you do use it on top of it, the CPU's IHS will protect the die from possibly using the wrong heatsink.

 

Yep, saw that and bought Kryonaut already.

Edit: Conductonaut, not Kryonaut.

Pricier yes but you don't exactly need to buy TIM every week and as we are talking about a few degrees difference between Kryonaut and other brands it felt counter-intuitive to go for anything but the best while at it.

Also I'm using a nickel-plated CPU heatsink and it already "survived" an application of Coollab. Liquid Ultra (as did the CPU heatspreader) so liquid metal type TIM is ok.

Gonna redo both CPU / GPU in one go.

(Liquid Ultra didn't seem to make much difference either on CPU or GPU compared to say AS-5, which on the review isn't very good.

Probably due to composition or similar as Liquid Ultra gives great results when used to replace TIM when delidding, I've seen)

 

mine only goes to 2038mhz at max too, wich is better than your but trust me on this, doesn't bring too much fps gain, maybe some points on 3dmark and superposition benchmark and nothing more, but it doesn't bother me because this card is still top tier performance, i never was able to find a gold card in my life either except for my previous gtx 980 gaming g1, that card oc was so brutal that the performance gain was up to 25% only with overclock (but the oc was too stressing to that the gpu finally gave up and the vrm exploded). I was hoping someday i will find a similar gold gpu, but with my luck i gave up and even if i find one it probably will end up like my 980.

 

I'm using kryonaut as well on top of my cpu IHS, before that i used NT-H1. I couldn't see the benefit there because when I was using NT-H1 my 8700k wasn't delidded yet.

For me, I always spread my TIM to all over the surface of IHS, I don't trust pea sized method anymore because sometimes the spread is not evenly distributed on every surface of IHS .

 

Couldn't agree more, just about 2 weeks when I started to use 1440p 144Hz gsync compatible monitor. I observe what performance gain do I get from overclocking from 1890Mhz to 1995Mhz, it's like 4-5 fps more from 120-130 fps. Well, it's really insignificant.

Last time I got my gold gpu was 980 Ti Gaming 6G, it's overclocked like crazy, it can maintain 1520Mhz on 70 degrees C, and 1495 on 79 degrees C.

 

so just want to say thanks for this thread, I have been having similar issues for a while with my ASUS Dual OC 2080ti, thinking it was drivers, degradation or something else causing me greif, nope just shitty paste from ASUS.

Temps were about ~8-10 degrees warmer, and my previously stable overclocks were totally unstable. I had to run a majorly reduced overclock and increase voltage to be stable. I was getting way lower clocks then previously, bad performance and hitting powercap even when no where near the 120% power I had set.

I have been banging my head on everything trying to figure out what was issue, figured might be related to newest drivers, power supply (even though I have a seasonic focus gold 850w) motherboard, sag, use of USBc on card etc.

Finally last night I figured I would repaste the cpu, well when I took off the heat sink I was blown away with how shitty the paste was, was already drying up and didn't have total coverage. ASUS really dropped the ball on my card.
I had it since oct last year, and the issues started when it was 8-9 months old I couldn't believe that the stock paste would a) been applied so shittily and already drying up.

I had seen a thread on guru 3D of another user with a 2080ti ASUS card with same symptoms I was having and a repaste fixed his issues, so after the repaste I was shocked how good of a fix.

Temps back down to where they were before ~59-60c instead of the 68-71 I was getting (super aggressive fan curve, 55c = 100% fan, noise doesn't bother) and I was able to use my previous OC, and performance was so good.
Gained 1500+ points on Timespy graphics score at same clocks vs before the repaste.

So thanks again for this post.

I used Arctic MX-4 as it was the best I could grab in town on a Saturday here.

 

Before you sell - RMA that sucker bro' right something so hard to pin down but that has to be replaced. Like an intermittent VRAM issue. Long as it's cosmetically/physically in good condition and they see the orig. BIOS - you should be good. God I hated working in an RMA warehouse. Believe me - it's a checklist job. Get that refurb! Either keep it or sell it