Onboard Sound Vs. Add in Sound Card

Connect an optical input DAC to the on-board sound card, Creative Labs will sell you SBX headphone surround sound software, for $30, that will work off your Realtek ALC1150 audio processor.

 

Thanks for the great advice! Are the Windows 10 drivers anywhere near stable, though? (And does it even support Win10? Everywhere I look, they talk about Windows 8).

 

Thx for the warning about the Chinese opams. Everywhere I look, though, on legit sites, it say the LME49710HA is out of stock or obsolete. Are there newer ones to be had? LOL, now that you brought it up, I don't want to run the ZxR 'stock' any more.

EDIT: On a TI site, I found a man saying the OPA1611AID would be its replacement. There seems to be an OPA1611AIDR version too. Which one do I need? Sorry, ths is my first foray into opamps.

 

Thx again for all your help. Feeling really psyched about the whole process now.

 

No, I haven't replaced opamps yet (but I planned to wach a zillion youtube vids first, before embarking on the process). Good tip on the dot! Thx. Don't want to destroy my card, of course. Kinda really makes you wonder why they're shipping the ZxR with that crappy JRC2114D to begin with.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but as I was ready to order from that Chinese dude (yes, this is happening!), I just realized you spoke of an 'adapter' here. What is this adapter you speak of, if I may ask? Something with 2 sockets that converge to 1, I reckon? I just want to make sure I order all the parts I need.

 

Thank you very much again! Just placed the order!

N.B. Looking at the first one, I suppose (due to its soldered-on) height, the cover of the ZxR may not fit any more; but I doubt this will affect audio-quality (looks like the capacitors are 'horizontally' shielded by a copper barrier to begin with).

 

I will definitely let you know! And thanks again.

 

P.S. According to Creative, seems there are only 4 op-amps that can be swapped out:

https://d287ku8w5owj51.cloudfront.net/inline/products/21383/popup/op-amps.html

The rest appears soldered on. Not sure how comfortable I would feel holding a soldering iron to my card; but with the 4 you advised, I think I will be good for now, and will already see a huge improvement.

 

Yeah, ordered the card today as well. It will indeed be good to listen to it first for a while, so I will actually be able to tell the difference later.

As for my proficiency with a soldering iron, it's my experience (from building my own amp, back in my teens, LOL) that if you apply even a tiny bit too much solder, you'll introduce unwanted resistences and/or noise. I could probably do it, if I really, really wanted to, but I think those four will be fine to start with.

 

Currently, my PC speaker situation isn't all that stellar, tbh. I have a Logitech Z906 system, with a beyerdynamic DT 990 PRO headphone, and a Schiit Magni/Modi combo. I may well upgrade these too. Thing is, I have a far superior Atmos home theatre system in my living room, but don't necessarily feel like filling my entire desk with a huge amp.

 

Too much solder wont cause an issue you can hear unless the solder strays to another component.
The things to consider are:
Make sure the hole and what you will put in it are clean of oxidation and dirt.
Make sure the soldering iron is hot enough for the solder but if its a solder station dont go too hot unless you are very quick/good.
Try to minimise the time the component is heated, dont stress over it, just remember to work quickly.
When finished make sure both the socket and component are soldered, the solder should flow over them, there should not be a solder bump/ball or gap.

If you are worried about leaving too much solder on a joint get some solder wick.
This is a thin mesh of metal that you put on the offending solder joint and then heat it with the soldering iron by pushing the iron on the wick over the joint.
Once it has heated up enough it melts the solder and soaks it up.
Everyone will think you are a solder god lol.

ps
you will need a solder sucker to remove the solder from each pin of the op-amp you want to remove.
Heat the joint with the loaded solder sucker pushing on the solder as well.
As soon as the solder melts press the button on the sucker to hoover it out.

 

So been thinking about swapping out the JRC2114D from the ZxR myself, apart from the LME49860NA what do you guys think of the OPA2134PA? Reason I ask is I can get it locally and it's quite cheap as well, anyone have any experience with them?

I noticed there is also a LME49720NA which is supposed to be the same/similar to the LME49860NA is that true? Thanks

 

Thanks @DW75 I think I'll give the 49860 a crack!

Oh also any recommendations for tools or clamp or something that help take out the opamps easier?

 

Thanks for the tip man!

 

Definitely. I was a bit curious reading your earlier post about swapping out the JRC2114D for the LME49860NA will make the top end smoother/help remove the grainy-ness. My headphones a pair of Alessandro MS-Pro(e) and I particularly notice the grain when I listen to say Norah Jones' voice in a track like "Lonestar" will be curious to see how much difference it'll make.

Using JBL 305II's for speakers (which has a pretty nice bottom end even without sub) so will be good to see (hear) how it affects it there too.

 

FYI, the ebay store, hifiic, who I bought 2PCS LME49710HA from, seems to have received a review (in the last 6 months) for selling FAKE opamps. And delivery may take as long as July 5, it says. Let's hope I'll receive it soon, and that it won't be fake.

 

So, should I just forget about those LME49710HA's then, and get the Burson ones? If so, what are they called exactly?

 

Thanks again for your massively helpful and detailed replies. I haven't installed the LME49860NA's (I did order one of those IC extractors with them, though), because I wanted to wait until both sets of opamps are in.

Those Burson Audio V6's, indeed, aren't cheap. I may yet go for them eventually. But if that Chinese dealer comes thru, I want to see how the LME49710HA's are working out first. Besides, I still got my whole speaker situation to sort out too (thanks for the tips on those too, btw).

 

I sure hope it measures better than their R2R dac & amp combos...

 

So I finally got my LME49860NA op-amps, my subjective impressions after a few hours so far:

As per my conversation with @DW75

Speakers: JBL LSR305P II
Headphones: Alessandro MS-Pro

- high frequencies more smooth and warm and more pleasing overall but at times I feel I've lost a bit of that attack with the heavy rock stuff, just a tad and very well could just be my imagination
- tighter and more body in the bass
- wider and more open soundstage, also noticing more depth, like sound is more projected further in front of the speakers; finally starting to understand why people rave about the JBL305's soundstage
- finer details in music sounds more apparent

So far I am hearing bigger differences in my speakers than I do my headphones though, particularly with the soundstage.

 

I just swaped out those JRC211FD opamps for the LME49860NA, and really is better.



I been using asus sonic studio III with nahimic that comes with the onboard audio to enhance the audio coming out of the ZxR.

 

I'm with you 100%.

 

That post is from 2006. Onboard sound solutions have gotten better, tho I still <3 my Creative G6. Plus I prefer USB > PCIe, since you avoid all the silly compatibility issues, and your hardware can work on laptops.

 

I know it's been a few months, but what are your thoughts on nahimic?

I've been loving my E10K since I finally got it working right. Love not having to install audio drivers.