hehe I can't help but agree with you on most things. Although, a grand on cooling... maybe so... on the other hand, with the price difference between a 1080TI and a 2080TI, you can already build a nice small loop with a reasonable rad.
True indeed You won't fill the performance gap by this anymore though, something that worked out nicely back in the days. I never liked the idea behind full cover blocks, especially for motherboards. If you add a lot of radiator space, especially with fans, the price skyrockets. Even more so if you like the idea behind all the nifty controllers around (they are worth their price, I'm still using an aquaero to this date). PS: Does this "overclock scanner" MSI AB offer now work for anyone here?
Hey Jura! I finally got it, took twice as long as the order from the bykski store took though. I ordered from FormulaMod for the GPU waterblock (they were having a big sale was about 50% off), I'm not sure exactly what happened, it looks like the tracking broke cause I received no updates at all and suddenly it was at my door. Considering you had good luck from FormulaMod in the past I'm going to chalk it up to bad luck this time. You are definitely one of the MVP's on these forums for watercooling Jura
Talking about difference in price, I could build 2 of the loops I'm doing now for the price difference between the 1080Ti and the 2080Ti lol Cost me around $600 maybe a little less (that's including the delidding tool and liquid metal and normal thermal paste and stuff I bought too) and RTX 2080Ti's are between $1000 and $1400 more expensive than GTX 1080Ti's when they were new in Australia.
Well here the difference between a 1080TI, which I just set to around 800€ after release, and a 2080TI, with 1300€, or around that for a non-blower style cooler, for that money I think it's possible to build a small loop for the GPU alone also
Works on my laptop's 1070. The overclock tool is from NVIDIA, and not MSI. AB is simply acting as a front-end for the application. After you get your curve, save it to a profile.
Hi there Hard to say what has happened, I ordered few times from FormulaMod and almost every order has been shipped through different shipping company(once DHL, then China Post etc) , once order arrived after 3 weeks which I expected, I would always contact FormulaMod, they're good sellers but sometimes they're very slow if Aliexpress choose shipping service, once they're chosen Singapore post and my order arrived after 6 weeks, due this I always ask FormulaMod for DHL or China Post as they're fastest in my view Which one shipping company they're used ? Bykski official store on Aliexpress are fastest in my opinion, used them several times and prefer use them, but if I need to get Barrow fittings or parts then only FormulaMod is option as I used them and they're very reliable, never have issues with them Once I ordered from new seller and this has been just pain to resolve as he sent me totally different items etc abd refund took almost two months to resolve I have used several Bykski GPU waterblocks like on RTX and on GTX1080Ti as well and they're perform good or very close to EK and in some cases they outperform EK Hope this helps Thanks, Jura
My quietest PC has been my old 5820k with NH-D15 and Thermalright TY-147A fans and Raijintek Morpheus II cooler on EVGA Titan X SC with 1469MHz OC that's housed in Enthoo Primo, this build has been my quietest I would take the short video of my PC running but with you its pointless to argue,therefore what is point to do that Quantity of fans will make 2-3dB as max in my case and speed, what can makes difference in noise can largely depend on radiators used, case and lots of other things, if you do choose once wrong case then you are basically screwed £1k for watercooling is just way too much, yes if you are looking using EK, Bitspower etc then price would be much higher Hope this helps Thanks, Jura
Anyone in here played around with under-volting? I’ve done it on my laptop 1070 (got it to 800mV @ 1708MHz keeps the temps very in check). Been playing with it on my 1080ti just because honestly for the games I’m playing I don’t need the full power of this card and running it cooler and with less voltage seems like it would be only a positive in the long run. Currently I’m stress testing 900mV @ 1822MHz. What have you guys been able to get? Edit: looks like I maxed out at 1860Mhz w/ 900mV
I’m running 0.95V, still enough for ~1950/6100MHz. The card could do 100MHz more on the core but it gets reduced due to temperature anyhow, so I save myself the hassle.
950mV was not a good voltage for me. I maxed out around 1900MHz so I tried to go lower. Currently dropped 50mV but only 40MHz so I consider that a win.
In theory, the best way would be to start from a low voltage, check the max frequency, and continue on until you reach max voltage / speed. The increments in speed/voltage should be linear up to a certain point, where the voltage ramps up dramatically. Right below should normally be the sweet spot of your card.
This depends on yours temperatures which are you getting at 1.0v or around that voltage, in my case I can run at 1.0v 2002-2022MHz which are pretty much stable what I tried previously on my GTX1080Ti, my best OC is 2113MHz at 1.07v on GTX1080Ti which I run daily for few months without single issue, 2088MHz I have tried with 1.05v 900mV I never tried I must admit Hope this helps Thanks, Jura
Yeah that’s what we should be doing, however in my case I’m running a small form factor setup. And the standard ACX cooler on my 1080ti is not keeping it cool enough for my liking in the case. So under-volt it is. 1860MHz is fast enough for anything I want to play.
My cooler can always keep the card cool enough, but it gets quite noisy when you’re pushing it with a custom curve. So undervolting gave me just about the same performance, while keeping the noise level down.
Hi @Radical_53 Did you tried to replace TIM for something better like is Kryonaut or NT-H1? I replaced TIM on friend FTW3 and temperatures improved by 6-8°C Good case and good airflow will makes biggest difference in GPU cooling or CPU Can you try remove free PCI_E slot covers and raise case fan speed if this will make any difference? Hope this helps Thanks, Jura
Yes, I just did that. On my first card I used liquid metal, now just the Kryonaut stuff. It‘s tricky if you’re keeping the temperature controlled by the card itself, as better GPU cooling capacity can lead to cooling auxiliary stuff on the card (had that before with several cards, especially when you’re using liquid metal on the GPU with a polished heatsink). In my case (literally) the case itself holds me back, but it has a nicely controlled airflow and needs just a small number of fans. I may change it soon though as my passive PSU made me pick this case over another. I dropped the fully passive PSU shortly after, so there’s an opportunity at hand. I also may drop my soundcard for a SuperXFI, which would free up more space inside the case and give more air to the card.
I've got a Bykski on my Zotac 1080ti Amp. Took nearly 4 weeks to arrive from China but great cooler, keeps card in low 50s under load for 30 mins OC to 2075ghz. I have done the shunt mod and had zero problems. Added some thermal pads to rear over VRM to metal backplate as the TT Tower 900 case doesn't have huge airflow. GC on its own loop to EK 240 60mm radiator.
