i5 3570k OC... Temps could be better (assistance please)

Discussion in 'Processors and motherboards Intel' started by cupper24, Sep 19, 2016.

  1. cupper24

    cupper24 Guest

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    Hey there, everyone!

    Decided to take the plunge and see what I could get out of my i5 3570k. I was able to hold a steady 4.5GHz @ 1.25V (VCore).

    Passed a run of Prime for 24 hours using the Custom Test (4 threads/ 8K min FFT/ Max FFT 1792K/ 8192MB RAM/ Run ea. FFT for 5 mins). Set up per the OC guide kennyparker1337 posted over on overclock.net.

    The only thing I wasn't thrilled about were my temps!

    1) I've had this i5 on the original H100i and I've always had about a ~10C difference between Core 0 - Core 3. Core 1 is always the hottest. This was the case on my old Phenom proc as well, so I never thought much of it. But, now, I'm wondering if this is a property of the chip or some things I could do better as far as mounting the block to the proc.

    2) Core 1 max temp with the 4.5 OC (Multiplier of 45 with Offset Voltage at +0.005, Turbo volts at +0.035, PLL Volts at 1.709V, and "Level 2" CPU LLC) hit the threshold of "optimal" at 90C during the test. The rest of the cores registered mid 70s - mid 80s.

    I can definitely remount the h100i and replace the thermal compound. I think I need to make sure all corners are making good contact and "rock" it a bit to get air bubbles, using the "pea" method.

    I want to also completely re-asses my case air flow situation also. I have a CM HAF932 with following fans:

    Front: CM MegaFlow 200mm intake (110CFM), and Antec Tri-cool 120mm intake (79CFM)

    Back: Xigmatek 140mm exhaust (60 CFM)

    Side: CM MegaFlow 200mm intake (110 CFM)

    Top: h100i radiator "Push/Pull" exhaust with Corsair SP120L fans pushing (74 CFM x2) and Antec Tri-Cool 120mm pulling at 79 CFM x2

    This (logically anyway) should result in positive case pressure. My big question is in the fans, especially on the radiator side of things. I have read countless posts on the benefit of push/pull vs. push vs. pull. There seems to be a consensus that one doesn't rule over the other, and that it all depends on the fan quality.

    Any recommendations on fans and radiator config? I will probably keep the Xigmatek fan in the rear, but would like to match fans for the front intake and radiator. Was also planning to keep the MegaFlows, too. They move a TON of air.

    Any other general suggestions welcome, too. I feel like my temps are high based on others OC'ing the same chip with the same board and case.

    Thanks!

    cupper24
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2016
  2. thatguy91

    thatguy91 Guest

    I found that the i5-3570K is best performance/heat wise around 4.3 GHz. High temperatures when under load above this is expected. I'm on an air cooler.
     
  3. cupper24

    cupper24 Guest

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    Thanks! What kind of case/fan config are you running?

    That's bummer on the temps. I feel like if I can tweak some things in my setup, I'd feel good running at 4.5 and not have to worry about load temps.

    I put my system down to 4.4 @ 1.16 VCore (Turbo Voltage +0.024), Level 3 CPU LLC and am almost through a 24-hr run of Prime. Temps were maxed at around 80 on Core 1.

    cupper24
     
  4. jura11

    jura11 Guest

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    Hi there

    I would rather recommend try Asus RealBench,have used that and I always use that for benching and testing the my OC

    You can also try OCCT which I highly recommend to use with RealBench

    Prime putting unrealistic stress on CPU which you shouldn't see unless you are not rendering with AVX instructions and few others renderers which use Intel Embree,in gaming situations you shouldn't see too that workload

    Regarding H100i,have run and I switched to air cooler as I've never been impressed with performance on my i7-5820k,tried several fans and several setups like push/pull or push only or pull only etc,there has been zero difference or minimal(2-3°C),only thing which has lowered temps more has been Kryonaut from Thermal Grizzly thermal paste,right now I'm running Noctua NH-D15 and temps dropped by 8°C on PKG and 10°C on cores

    In yours case,you can try put better and quieter fans like are EK Vardar or Phanteks SP series and few others which I recommend,I've tried several like BeQuiet! Pure Wings 2/Silent Wings 2,Arctic Freezer,Noctua NF-F12,EK Vardar F3 120mm 1850RPM and stock Corsair fans,best performers has been EK with Noctua,Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP15

    Regarding yours case airflow,you can try seal radiator edges,I would try to disconnect case fans and test fans with which you will have best ir better temps,sometimes too many case fans can cause airblow and not desired airflow

    Lastly I would put as exhaust higher CFM fan as you have lots high CFM fans and exhaust fan is not high CFM fan

    HAF932 are great cases,but those cases never been designed for best airflow and out are better cases which have good airflow and don't suffer with those issues like is Fractal Design R4/R5 or Phanteks Enthoo series and many others,just don't get Corsair case they have poor airflow

    Hope this helps

    Thanks,Jura
     

  5. thatguy91

    thatguy91 Guest

    Yeah, the extra 0.1 GHz meant 10 C hotter temp. You will probably find a good drop to 4.3, then much less with each 0.1 GHZ below that.
     
  6. cupper24

    cupper24 Guest

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    Thanks Jura!!

    I run OCCT for about 3 hours following Prime, using the PSU Test, to add the stress of the GPU in the mix. Do you suggest running it longer, or using a different test?

    That jibes with what I've seen around regarding radiator configs.

    Appreciate the suggestions! I am looking at replacing the rear exhaust with a Phantek SP series (in my cart at Amazon now). Was thinking of using the Corsair AF120 series as radiator fans and the front intake to balance out the airflow. From a pure CFM perspective, if I make the front fans intakes + the rear fan, that would yield 247 CFM in, while the radiator exhausts and side panel fan as exhaust would yield 218 CFM. So, my case will still be balanced positively, but should also crest a cooler supply of air to be pulled across the radiator fins.

    Would love to know how I could test IR without really expensive equipment.

    cupper24
     
  7. jura11

    jura11 Guest

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    Hi there

    I usually use OCCT:Linpack which will put reasonable stress on yours CPU which should be OK

    Try RealBench,try H.264 Video Encoding and Heavy Multitasking and test that for 1 hour max,if its fail within 1 hour,then yours settings are unstable

    Yes with radiator you will need take have look on other options like sealing the edges of radiator

    If you want good radiator fans then EK Vardar and Phanteks are awesome fans and they should perform lot better than Corsair as most of companies are using CFM rating in unobstructed space,not when there is obstruction like are filters,radiator fins,HDD cages and many other items

    Like those I would choose,they're quiet and perform very nicely on radiators

    PHANTEKS PH-F120MP

    EK-Vardar F3-120 (1850rpm)

    And regarding good exhaust fan,have look on Thermalright TY-147A,those fans I've used on HAF X like exhaust fan,this fan perform much like Noctua NF-A15 which cost twice as much

    To test yours intake and overall temps,you can use any good program like is HWinfo or SIV64 which I use

    And I would recommend to use PWM for fans,something like this would be OK

    SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04)

    https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

    or this

    Swiftech 8W-PWM-SPL-ST 8 Way PWM Splitter-Sata


    https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-8W-...d=1474319608&sr=1-1&keywords=swiftech+pwm+hub

    Connect there fans and adjust that through the SW inside the BIOS etc and you will have quiet and good performing PC

    You don't need expensive equipment there,I use cheap thermometer or in my case,my fan controller have own 4 thermal probes with which I do checking the temps inside the case and outside temp

    Hope this helps

    Thanks,Jura
     
  8. thatguy91

    thatguy91 Guest

    The main problem is that the heat needs to transfer from the CPU cores to the CPU IHS, then to a cooler that has a limited cooling ability based on the ambient air temperature. Once you have adequate airflow adding more fans won't do much, apart from potentially creating a bigger build up of dust due to increased air flow, which in turn will reduce cooling capability.
     
  9. mezball

    mezball Master Guru

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    With those temps, is it safe to assume you have not delid it? If you haven't, you should. Before I did my 3770K, it was an furnace and the best I could get out of it was 4.2 (it is a dog, and needs some high volts)before the temps were in the upper 80's. Now she up to 4.5 @1.288v @69C max. depending on inside temps. I replaced the paste with liquid metal.

    Did my son's 3570K, too. 4.5 @1.216v @67C max. But I was lazy with his, it's on auto clock with an Asus z68 Pro-V Gen3 motherboard.

    This was tested with prime. Both cpu's being cooled with Cooler Master Hyper 212 with a push/pull fan configuration, in Cooler Master Sniper cases. Room temps around 24-26C
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2016
  10. Matt26LFC

    Matt26LFC Ancient Guru

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    You should delid, I got great results after I delid my 3570K. Dropped my temps around 23C! Used Liquid Pro on die and phobya hegrease on ihs, although now I'd use Thermal Grizzly on IHS.
     

  11. thatguy91

    thatguy91 Guest

    Just remember delidding could render your CPU useless. It was very risky even when the CPU's were new, but even more so now since it's aged and has extended periods of heat applied to it. Only do it if you are willing to buy a new computer anyway, and don't want to sell it.

    Otherwise, 4.3 GHz is a good overclock amount. I don't have too many issues with heat unless it is the middle of summer and the room is say, 35 C and I'm doing video encoding. Sure, if I did delid I could do 4.5 GHz, but the extra 4 percent performance isn't worth it. I'd probably have the same temperature situation on a hot day as around 4.3 GHz is where you start needing increasing extra voltage.
     

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