Qnix QX2710 Thread - Overclocking, Colour Profiles.....

Google it. Basically you'll see a burned in image on your monitor. Things that haven't moved in a while. Open the browser, leave the pc alone for 10 minutes, then open a solid color wallpaper, or something simple like that on your screen. You might see a burned in image of your browser on the screen.

Retention goes away with short time though.

 

New Qnix panels seem to overclock to a lower maximum (105-108Hz), but have no gamma shift, uniformity issues or image retention (not completely sure about IR). Fantastic for us *old*-timers, but newcomers probably do not realize how fantastic that is since they haven't seen the side effects take place. Gamma shift is a non-issue with profiles, and uniformity issues can be reduced by going to 96Hz or lower on the desktop, but image retention cannot be reduced to the same extent as those I believe.

I haven't spent a lot of time with my desktop at 96Hz since I notice the slightly darker corner immediately, even though my Qnix is already less bright (-11% or so) in the top right corner at 60Hz.

 

^ I have not used an older qnix panel before.. I can only speak for the one I use now, but I definitely do not see any gamma shift as was described on the older panels. When I set my refresh to 60, 96, 100 or 110, I don't notice any visible gamma shift in between them.

You are also correct seemingly with regard to the max overclock as from what I've been reading of recent user experiences on Overclockers and elsewhere, many are getting up to 110, but run into issues in and around that frequency.
I can go up to ~106-107 before I start to see issues.

That said, I've also read many people being able to get up to 120 easily just by usinga specfic type of DVI cable..

 

How can screenburn occur after only 10mins?

Screenburn usually happens when static image/s is displayed over a period of time, like say an office PC with a watermark on the top right corner etc.

Is this something to do with overclocking? Is it even screenburn? Am I making complete fool of myself? All of the above?

 

Yasa, have you had a chance to test your Qnix with an Nvidia card? I swear to god the retention my Qnix produces plugged into my 970 is nigh on 0. Or let's say, very slight. Much reduced. Is this even possible?

 

That is screen burn that we know from crt monitors and it never goes away. Image retention happens a lot faster, but it goes away, with time. It's often seen on plasma tvs.

 

Gamma shift on my Qnix (bought last May):

60hz:

Uncalibrated response:
Black level = 0.1478 cd/m^2
50% level = 32.74 cd/m^2
White level = 142.99 cd/m^2
Aprox. gamma = 2.13
Contrast ratio = 967:1

72hz:

Uncalibrated response:
Black level = 0.1472 cd/m^2
50% level = 30.83 cd/m^2
White level = 141.49 cd/m^2
Aprox. gamma = 2.20
Contrast ratio = 961:1

96hz:

Uncalibrated response:
Black level = 0.1484 cd/m^2
50% level = 24.04 cd/m^2
White level = 139.64 cd/m^2
Aprox. gamma = 2.54
Contrast ratio = 941:1

120hz:

Uncalibrated response:
Black level = 0.1475 cd/m^2
50% level = 16.32 cd/m^2
White level = 131.52 cd/m^2
Aprox. gamma = 3.01
Contrast ratio = 892:1

 

Not sure if any of the new Qnix panels can hit 120Hz tbh. You would be doing us a great favor by taking photos if you have a good camera, showing the differences between stock and OC, since I've noticed that Qnix users might fail to notice the gamma shift during the first week of usage, so I want to make sure that isn't the case here. I'm almost sure there isn't gamma shift to begin with, if you have a new panel, but it hasn't been measured yet so the best we can do is have photos taken until I can get my hands on the new panel and do some measurements.

I really, really don't know... but I have a friend who just bought a Qnix and he's planning to run it from a 970. He has a 670 currently, so I guess I'll be testing the new Qnix panel, the Qnix on the 670, and the Qnix on the 970.

Thanks a lot for that. Could you perhaps measure gamma shift at 110Hz as well? Would provide an additional data point.

 

Sure.

110hz:

Uncalibrated response:
Black level = 0.1494 cd/m^2
50% level = 17.96 cd/m^2
White level = 137.44 cd/m^2
Aprox. gamma = 2.94
Contrast ratio = 920:1

 

@Yasa
I have a digital slr I can use for photos. Is there a particular image or color that would be best to use as a backdrop?
Perhaps a solid color?

 

Awesome. White, Red, Green, Blue, and any colorful images that you like would be nice. Thanks!

 

Right on, I will try to get some comparison shots done tonight.

 

Hey, I'm new to the forums and still trying to get adjusted to the QNIX lifestyle (aka still getting everything tweaked)... that being said, I just got mine in 2 days ago from Amazon > MNW Global I think. No dead pixels, color looks great at 60Hz, but some pretty noticeable backlight bleed.

I had no problem getting it to 96 and 120 on the standard settings just using the monitor club thread on overclockers forums. That being said, there is definitely some seroius gamma shift (everything is noticeably darker).

I did start to see a single red horizontal line come and go after a few hours of gaming having it at 120Hz (in Leauge of Legends) so I tuned it down to 110Hz and haven't seen it come back. I'd rather just run at 110Hz and not risk damaging the monitor, although if I set it to 120Hz I havn't seen it reoccur (outside of that one time). That was on the stock settings and no timings tweaking, so maybe if I mess with things I can get it more stable, but I am not too concerned.

I am running it on SLI 970s (also brand new) upgraded from 680. Never tested it on the 680.

My only issue is I am having trouble getting color profiles to work in most games. I have read your thread regarding games and color profiles, so I am not sure if that is what is happening. I use the ICC Profiles to get what looks to me good color. I found 3 profiles that make the 96, 110, and 120 look like the stock 60 (which IMO looks great). But when I load most games at anything other than 60 it looks very dark.

tl;dr: Got Qnix 2days ago, can get 120 just using stock, eventually noticed single horizontal red line. No issues at 110 using stock. Running on SLI 970s, definite gamma shift as you go higher in Hz. Issue getting color profiles to work in games. (I did use a different, shorter and thicker, D-DVI cable than the one that came with the monitor, I had one with my old 120Hz TN panel. not sure if that matters).

120Hz no frame skip: [PUT"h"HERE]ttp://imgur.com/AqvNHrL

^ is with my phone, I ran it at 1/5 speed on camera and can see definite proof no frame skipping, but cannot upload that one right now.

 

Hey there. Using Color Sustainer?
Make sure you use CRU for the custom resolutions as I don't have an Nvidia GPU to test Color Sustainer on, so custom resolutions defined in NvCP may not work.

As for stability, are you fiddling with the timings? NvCP allows testing different timings without having to reboot or restart the driver.

 

I followed the guide on overclockers pretty much to a T. I installed the Nvidia thing, then used CRU to set my custom resolutions (60default, 96, 110, 120). And then use Color Sustainer for the profiles, etc.

Then I have applied different ICC profiles to each one depending on the Hz.
Every rate seems to work and no frame dropping via the testing. However, I am having trouble telling how much the colors are changing (and how good the ICC profiles are at each Hz). I swap between the two and cannot tell if it is better or worse (it is clearly changing though). The main thing is that at the higher resolutions it is noticeably darker without any profile loaded.

I have not touched the timings. I have been reading up and trying to figure out which numbers to change. All I did was change from 60, 96, 110, and 120 in the CRU with the setting on Manual. I did not touch any other parameters.

Everything seems good, my only main issues are having trouble telling if the color is good or not, and getting the color to look well in games. In FFXIV (fullscreen game), the color profiles seem to not work, it seems darker at the higher resolutions, I don't think it loads the profile.

I am pretty happy with the overclock though, 120hz was super easy... but like I said I saw that one horizontal red line after a while which got me a bit nervous. I'd rather not messup the monitor.

The backlight bleed is definitely noticeable, havn't tried to fix it yet though via relieving pressure or simply opening it up.

Thanks for all your help with these monitors!

edit:

Is there a good way to actually test my color changes? Should I set it to default 60, take a picture with real camera, then do the same at 120 and compare them on a printed piece of paper or something!? I cannot really tell the changes well just by switching back and forth.

So I just tested Gamma using Lagom LCD test... it seems on everything but 60Hz my gamma is super high, like 3.0 area or higher. On my 60Hz default it is around 2.35ish

 

How do you like the oc, how's the performance, likin it?

 

Posting this so I can be allowed to post images in next post, see below.

 

Alright, so I managed to do some more research and tweaking now that I got home from work and it is working great. Thanks for help all.

I have what seems to be a stable 120Hz, no issues as of yet, and got the gamma down to what I see as ~2.35 @ 120Hz. To compare it is around ~2.25 at 60Hz. (The gamma is solely based on a visual test at Lagrom, no tooling).

I used these timings/parameters from the OP and it works better than the default manual (120Hz with LCD-reduced selected):

http://i.imgur.com/2Cq4lxS.png

I used this color profile @ 120Hz via Color Sustainer (the Native dipscal 120):

http://www.overclock.net/attachments/23100

I also changed out the provided D-DVI cable with a one that is about a foot shorter and slightly thicker. It came with my old LG 120Hz TN panel.

Only thing left to do is run it for a a bit and make sure it is truly stable. That and possibly look into fixing the backlight, not sure if it is worth the time/risk.


- Antelope

 

The risk is extremely low if you're careful.

This was the first thing I did when I got mine home since I have mounted mine and needed to take the stand off.

Take out 4 screws and just slowly pop off the back panel with a flathead screwdriver. Super easy.. I was done in under ten minutes.

There are youtube videos that show you how to.. if the bleed is no good then you may be able to resolve it very easily.

 

Same here. What refresh rate do you usually run your qnix at? What color profiles are you personally using? The darker area in my case has some horizontal pixel flickering as well but I managed to reduce it by tightening the timings. It's still perceivable on solid, bright and static images but it doesn't really bother me.