Thanks for the answer. I do respect your sharing of knowledge here a lot, so what would you do in my case? Since this system is used mainly for competitive gaming. Is it a good choice if FPS are constant anyway, no matter which scheduling mode is active? I'm always looking forward to squeeze out my system even if its only like 0,5% better.
If FPS is constant I would not touch this quantum+boost setting. Have you minimized the number of auto-started system services and 3rd party apps? I did notice improvements in games after I stopped some services. For example, you can remove dependencies for Multimedia Class Scheduler (MMCSS) service and disable it. It is obvious that the less threads need scheduling the more responsive system you get. Edit: Have you tried MSI-mode tweak?
Thanks. Ofc, only the things i really need are enabled. Even Avast is disabled while playing. Not quite on the same page as Von Dach though, as he even disables the Windows-Firewall which does a good job actually and i don't want to use 3rd Party Firewalls. As i use this rig also for surfing on the net. Same as for LargeSystemCache. I wouldn't enable that on normal workstations. Also i'm unsure about disabling Performance Counters / Task Schedulers / WMI Autologger. Some of them may be in fact useless like for example ReadyBoost if you don't use that, but there are many people saying that Windows (the newer the better) has a ability to keep itself in shape. Not talking about defrag or cleaning of temp files. I just don't believe that Windows would do nothing else to optimize itself and keep it responsive. And i remember about the old days, where systems would get a lot slower after a certain time. What if i do break that, by disabling a dependancy of that? Can someone tell me for sure that there are not modules / tasks / logs that are not accessed by some kernel code that's responsible for optimizations? Or that some service / code isn't calling one of these disabled things all the time like a ringing telephone in the background? Saw that MSI thread yesterday and did everything i could. My Xonar D2X, the SMBus Controller and the ICH10 USB (2.0) controllers were the only ones where it didn't enabled the mode.
I believe that Windows uses those counters not for optimization but for report so user (and IT department) can estimate current state of OS. Yeah, I only succeeded with USB3 controllers. Despite the fact that I achieved performance gain only on weak rig, I prefer PCI devices to work in more efficient and modern mode.
I really think that the first post needs an update. For example: It could include the Timer Resolution script / service from mbk1969. And a link to the newest Kit? And personally i wouldn't get that far anymore to clean drivers with 3rd Party Tools unless there are serious problems (which should lead to a format anyway. In my case it would! ) I do recommend dual-boot systems. While one is your main OS with all the apps, the other could be your gaming OS. Simple. Or you could use the other one to experiment with some tweaks and test them before applying. You have to know what you want. If you want to play Singleplayer Games only on the other OS you can even tweak and disable a few more things. As Von Dach talked about LCD overdrive i miss at least a link to the blurbusters blog and the Lightboost stuff for 3D ready screens. Personally i don't need / want it as i'm not playing fast paced games like Quake where every swipe counts. In my games (and desktop) it's just too dark and sometimes i feel a little bit dizzy and sick if i used it too much. (Even on the desktop) The UNI Xonar driver URL needs an update, they have a new URL under maxedtech dot com. I do recommend the 1.64 (r2) and not the latest ones (1.72) because i recognize better positional audio (in source games) with the 1.64. In fact i would download the standalone apps at the same time and apply the 7.1 virtual speaker shifter enhanced profile. I do not use the C-Media GUI for the card, i use the default ASUS one and i tend to believe that it's only compatible with that and i don't need two applications. I have its autostart files disabled (hsmgr and audio center) as i don't need GX (EAX) and a shortcut to it on the desktop. Note: There is no difference between Low DPC Center and the default one. The Low DPC one doesn't autorun at windows boot while the default one does. Stereo headphones do their job better than any so-called 5.1 or 7.1 headphones. I use Superlux HD681 (they have no microphone, though) and they're unbeatable, especially if you see the price. If you don't believe me, read a review. You can clip a Zalman ZM-MIC1 on the cable, though. So in fact i would agree with the full dynamic range while selecting 2/2.1 speakers mode. BUT: If you're into source-engine games and have a Xonar or something like that... (CMSS-3D for SoundBlaster does the same job but you have to find your own settings - don't know about other cards. I got terrible results while on a Realtek Onboard Chip, trying to achieve the same without CMSS and stuff like that.) - Switch your Card to 8 Channels (I use 48khz as there are games out there who don't like 96khz - rare, but happens.), Headphones, Dolby Headphone (DH-1) and 7.1 Virtual Speaker Shifter. Then set the game to 5.1 speakers (or more if available, but i couldn't test that) and be amazed by positional audio. Don't forget to apply the 7.1 shifter profile i mentioned. You only have to do that one time if you don't mess around with the positions in the Audio Center. Disabling and enabling (i do disable them for music / youtube etc.) are no problem. Maybe this would make more sense in a Xonar thread but as i see a lot of gamers out there with wrong settings or buying ridiculously priced 7.1 headphones and still hearing like ****, this is a must have optimization. If you're still gaming with onboard, don't even bother before you get a decent soundcard. Btw. i don't mess around with the windows settings. I leave it at default and the only thing i really switch in the control panel is to 24-bit and 48khz. No windows calibrations for headphones or speakers. Don't bother around with tweaks like Core Parking? If you set your energy profile to High Performance, it is disabled. As for Anti-Virus i recommend Avast as it is really lightweight. But you'll have to bother with it's settings first, as you don't want to be notified about it's updates, which they also could use to annoy you with uninteresting stuff. I do not use it's Deepscreen or Hardened Modes and just disable it's sounds / voices. You have to register (but you can do for free) and you can use some fake details. You're unlocked for 365 days then. Until then there is always a newer big update. It should disable the Windows Defender by itself, but you should get sure. On Windows 7 it doesn't always work, even after a reboot after installing Avast. I use it because of it's low memory footprint and it's very good detection rate. While gaming i just disable it, with a rightclick. (Disable permanent - for as long as i'm playing) As you use Windows 8 or Windows 8.1 - you can use the default defragmentation app to TRIM your SSD. It's not a defrag for them anymore. I recommend to leave the automatic defrag enabled, at least for the SSDs. Ofc the SSDs do it by their own aswell, but it's better to be sure and get out the garbage right, when you want it. And one more thing, even if you have a router with a hardware firewall (most of them nowadays have that) i wouldn't disable the windows software firewall. It's really great. In fact you want exactly this combination. Hardware-Firewall + Software-Firewall. Sure you can disable it, but you do it on your own risk. Or you could use a 3rd Party app, which i don't recommend either due to its annoyances, memory footprints, network performance etc. etc. Btw. "AdditionalCriticalWorkerThreads" "AdditionalDelayedWorkerThreads" There is another value to play around with: "DefaultNumberofWorkerThreads" I almost forgot: I can't recommend to disable Eventlog service. It should be on in combination with following values: [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\WMI\Autologger\EventLog-Application] "Start"=dword:00000001 [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\WMI\Autologger\EventLog-Security] "Start"=dword:00000001 [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\WMI\Autologger\EventLog-System] "Start"=dword:00000001 While the other autologgers can be safely turned off. It's way more clean and reliable than just turning it off, as some applications do use it to output their errors. Even Powershell does and the Eventlog service is used for the network control panel also.
I ended deleting all of these registry settings to use default values. I noticed negative effect after creating them. I suggest they can be helpful on rigs under permanent heavy load. But additional threads on my rig with usual game load are just additional burden.
Dolby Headphone always sounds like playing in a bathroom for me. I bought the DSS 2.0 converter box from Turtlebeach to get positional audio without any chorus-effects / bathroom echos. Much better imo
@lime Yes the first post need to be updated/cleaned, I don't have the motivation to do it currently and I don't know when I may (if ever) do so. Anybody are welcome to do it themselves, post it in the thread and if it's good I have no problem deleting my old work on first post and pasting your own over it with all due credits to you. Even add your Bitcoin, Litecoin or Doge address for donations if you want and have one (and if Guru3D allow that). "DefaultNumberofWorkerThreads": only valid to be used if you have the RpcXdr service active in my understanding. Firewall: I just assume our western zionist-controlled governments have full access to our computers whenever they want, firewall or not. Windows Firewall is just less obvious in leaving traces of infiltration compared to something like ZoneAlarm who sent back encrypted packets directly to the murderous sick *******s of the government of Israel. If you really want to protect yourself against malwares, the biggest attack vector is probably your web browser. Try to surf with javascript et Adobe Flash disabled by default. Only enable them when really necessary. The old Opera engine (<v12.16) do that the best, newer versions are Chrome clones and are ****. Malicious advertisements are another big vector. Blocking the advertisers url/ip completely is necessary. Opera and SRWare Iron do it best, it's in the bookmarks of my kit. It's better that AdBlocker who only don't show the advertisements in the page, you still download them. Opera and SRWare completely block them, you save bandwidth, surf faster and safer. Eventlog: I don't use softwares who need that on my dedicated gaming rig but it's needed for something like Media Center. If I start to take into account every exception for my main services tweaker cmd file I will re-enable half of them. I understand you but just edit it for your own personal needs. @])rStrangelove A cheap trick to increase stereo separation effect in your ears (spacialization), is to start the equalizer and push up only the highest frequency leveler (~16K+).
Iron is kinda of a scam though http://www.insanitybit.com/2012/06/23/srware-iron-browser-a-real-private-alternative-to-chrome-21/
Anyone knows if the tweaks for the MMCSS are correct? In the post it says the value for "priority" and "gpu priority" should be 1, in the Microsoft web it says that 1 is low priority and 8 is high priority.
I wouldn`t bother with these tweaks since (1) application should exclusively ask MMCSS for its help, and (2) we can`t know whether any particular application actually does that.
Hi there! Some years since last post here. Are your tweaks explained in first post and here still ok for last version of Windows 10? If partially, can you tell me what to not consider? In general, where to start? Thanks.
for s for some reason i feel the solution of the problem im having since almost 10 months is in this reply , i have problems with csgo that basically my var client fucks up real hard , using windows 10 LTSB , i did everything you can imagine..literally everything but for some reason i think the problem is my headphones which are steelseries 800 " wireless " , i had USB in and USB out for like a year then i decided to usb analog in " i guess " ? and usb out.. suddenly the pc started using 48KHZ and then the pc would mute itself when there is no sound in the background... like when im even watching a serious and there is a quiet part .. the volume mutes until someone talks , used to happen in-game too which i had to keep switching my guns to keep hearing mid round.. the game was running fine for few days when i did that... then it came back and ****** up so i have a feeling that the problem might be in the sound , note that i have 2 drivers installed of sound i think , one is called steelseries speakers and other is called realtek , i have the steelseries one coz when i used the realtek one it has REALLY low volume for some reason , and i have on-board HD audio disabled anyway sorry for making this long man , can you explain to me what am i supposed to do ? maybe you can help me .. maybe i should put my headphones with another way? i have a feeling you gonna be my solution !
