Sorry for the double post. I removed my CMOS battery to reset the Bios or what ever was suggested, after googling around I found out I'm supposed to do something with CMOS jumpers but I couldn't find any. This is a picture of what happens now when I turn my pc on, it just freezes at this: http://imgur.com/VwdNM and this is a picture of my CMOS battery as I can't find any jumpers: http://imgur.com/jsF9P I'm thinking about just replacing my motherboard and PSU in all honesty, I'm just worried it's the graphics card ****ing up now because it does seem to crash as soon as the windows flag starts appearing *like a second after the LOADING sign appears*. I'll try just remove the graphics card if I can sort this BIOS problem out now.
dust out that cpu cooler, taking out the battery is the same as jumping out the cmos, try just 1 set of 2 rams in dual channel. dust out the rest of the rig too, its got a lot of dust
That was it after its been dusted haha. I've tried that with the RAM. The picture is making it look far dustier than it actually is, I'd blown a lot off the dust of before messing with the RAM and stuff.
Yeah my GTX260, I'll go give a big blow outside *wink wink*. But seriously yeah i'll go try get some dust off it.
Given that he ran the pc with the hsf only half on for 3 months the cpu could be on its way out, it was regularly hitting 100c.
Ok well I've blown all the dust off it, reset the cmos again and it's back to were I was before, the list of culprits seems like PSU/MOBO/CPU then, probably going to put my money on psu or mobo?
http://imgur.com/a/Wwi4s#0 A CLUE! Well it's definitely not overclocking. I even tried F6 which was reset fail safe defaults and nothing improved.
If I were you I’d strip the thing apart and give it a cleaning like it deserves, checking all slots before inserting anything to make sure no dust is in them. Regardless of what the issue is, I’d put in a quality psu. You have another psu you can test with?
Tried raising the voltage to 1.120 as that was the closest I could find to 1.1, it was still showing the voltage on the left hand side as 1.05 and then [1.120]
Yeah I saved it, rebooted etc. Still the same. Can't exactly get a cpuz screenshot with the whole not being able to boot into windows thing I got going on which sucks. Just ordered a new PSU: OCZ CoreXStream PSU / 500W. Has to be better than my stock one which was free with a case... I wonder if I can get into a live cd of ubuntu, will try make one tomorrow night and find something similar to cpuz for linux
Got it up and running again. Turns out I did an "upgrade" instead of a full reinstall and format. That fixed it. Still something did cause the SSD to be corrupted and it wouldn't boot in the first place so maybe ordering that new PSU was still a good idea. I appreciate all the help given to me in this thread though, thanks everyone! Especially TK!
Right, it was working fine but we've done some more work on it. Today, we stripped it down and rebuilt in in a Fractal Design Define R4 (upgrade from Antec 100) EVGA SuperNOVA NEX650G Gold Power Supply (from a OCZ CoreXstream 500w) MSI GTX 660 OC - 2GB (from a GTX260 896mb) All running really well, I rebuilt it and it's running great, case is good for cable management, running stock HSF, but temps are good so that will do for now. Gave me the GTX260 and the PSU for a great price as well for helping, so will save the PSU to use in another build and already installed the GTX260 which was a nice upgrade from my 8800GT so mines running a bit better as well. Anyway was a success and all running greatm here's a quick pic. We left it with the stock fans, so one at the front, one at the back, you can run 2 front, 1 side, 1 back, 2 top, but seemed like overkill and it's running well anyway. HDD in the bays and the SSD mounts on the back of the mobo plate.
A lot of PSU's aren't calibrated exactly. A lot of motherboard sensors aren't calibrated exactly either. Being low isn't necessarily a sign of sagging voltage. It could simply be at where it was made to be. TBH, you can run the 12v at ~10v to ~15v, and the system will work just fine. I can say that because I've ran various setups off of DC power supplies where you can dial your own voltage, and there's a helluva wide range where everything works without issues. From what I've seen, what matters more in than absolute voltage level, terms of causing or avoiding problems, is the Vpp ripple/nose. I've seen poor filtering from a switched power supply result in some freaky stuff. -scheherazade