Need Help Picking Out A UPS: I Live In Brownout Hell

Due to the age of my house, built in the 70's, and local utility company issues that are well beyond my control, my house suffers from brownouts multiple times each day. Every time an appliance comes on there is a 4-15 second brownout. With the summer here my A/C is turning on and off constantly throughout the day. I've personally suffered and read plenty on brownouts and computers and know I need to do something.

Even after plenty of research I still can't come to any clear conclusions on what UPS to buy. I don't know how many Watts/VA it needs to have, what brand to go with, if a UPS will be enough to protect me, etc... I have two high end PC's that need protection from this. I'm not looking for a UPS that can run my system for a half hour after a blackout. I merely want something that can protect my computer from the constant fluctuations produced by the numerous brownouts I experience in this house each and every day. Any help, advice, and/or suggestions on this subject would be most welcome.

Computer 1 Specs
Case: Antec 900 Gaming Case (Fans: 3x 120mm, 2x 120mm LED, 1x 200mm)
PSU: Thermaltake ToughPower 750W
MOBO: MSI P6N Platinum
CPU: Intel C2D E6300 @ 2.8GHz
CPU Cooler: Tuniq Tower (standard, not the blue LED version)
RAM: 3GB (3x1GB) 667MHz DDR2-800 (stock)
Sound: Creative X-Fi XtremeGamer
Vid: EVGA 8800GTX (stock)
HD: 1x 80GB SATA / 1x 320GB Sata
DVD-RW: Don't Remember Brand
Monitor: LG 19" LCD (L1933)
USB Device: Xbox 360 GamePad
Speakers: Logitech X-540

Computer 2 Specs (differences highlighted in red)
Case: Antec 900 Gaming Case (Fans: 3x 120mm, 2x 120mm LED, 1x 200mm)
PSU: Thermaltake ToughPower 750W
MOBO: MSI P6N Platinum
CPU: Intel C2D E4300 @ 2.8GHz
CPU Cooler: Tuniq Tower (standard, not the blue LED version)
RAM: 3GB (3x1GB) 667MHz DDR2-800 (stock)
Sound: Onboard
Vid: EVGA 8800GTS 640MB (stock)
HD: 1x 80GB SATA / 1x 60GB IDE
DVD-RW: Don't Remember Brand
Monitor: Dell 17" CRT
USB Device: None
Speakers: Logitech X-540

Additional Components
Router: Linksys WRT54G Wireless Router
Cable Modem: Ambit SpeedStream (U10C0180)

 

Well since you don't need the battery backup of a UPS, then just get a good voltage regulator/line conditioner. That'll keep your AC at a constant level. These Tripp Lite ones are good and this 1200W version will be more than enough for both your systems. So would a 1000W one but the 1200W one is cheaper.

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=10031132

 

1) I see this unit only has four outlets. My setup requires a minimum of eight so will this unit still work?

2) You mentioned this would keep my A/C at a constant level. Did you mean this would protect anything plugged into this unit from the A/C caused brownouts or would this literally be connected to the A/C? Because the A/C is one of many things that cause brownouts. It is just the biggest culprit among them all.

3) So I don't need a UPS? I thought a UPS was required because when brownouts come you need something like a battery to be able to provide the voltage that the wall outlet no longer can produce at the moment.

If this truly will work in my situation I am overjoyed as I figured I would need to spend $400 to $600+ on two 1500VA - 1800VA UPS systems. I just want to make sure this is exactly what I need before I make the purchase. Thanks so much for your help :approval:.

 

AC means the current (Active Capacitor), A/C mean Air Conditioner

 

The only A/C I have ever been talking about is the Air Conditioner. As that is the biggest cause of these brownouts. So Makalu wasn't talking about my air conditioner? If he wasn't can someone explain what an Active Capacitor has to do with my situation?

 

After doing much research I feel that if I get a UPS that it must be Online (not offline or line-interactive), the waveform must be true sinewave, and offer a minimum of 900W - 1000W (1500VA+). I just can't find anything that does this though. Even the expensive APC SmartUPS series is Line-Interactive. Any suggestions people? I can't believe how expensive this is getting :wanker:

 

1) You should be able to plug a power bar strip into the line conditioner and increase the number of plug-ins to it...but I'm assuming that your two computers aren't occupying 8 different wall sockets...so think of it as providing 4 wall sockets. Or you can buy two of their 600W units for $80 apeice (4 outlets on each one)

2) It'll try to level out the 120V AC (alternating current) line that it's plugged in to, regardless of what is causing that line to drop. The voltage regulator has step-up and step down transformers in it and the one in the link accepts an input range of 89V to 147V AC. The stats are as follows:

3) naw you don't need a UPS...most UPS's are just a surge suppresor that shuts off under extreme spikes and auto switches to a battery bank. It doesn't attempt to even out a low brownout condition. Some of the more expensive ones have a voltage regulator/line conditioner built-in though.


hope this clears things up

 

http://www.provantage.com/tripp-lite-lc1200~7TRPC003.htm

 

That's a really good price on those...looks like maybe a close-out price on the "old" beige ones instead of gray. It's just been in recent months that they changed them though...probably is all the same on the inside.

 

So your telling me that I don't need some uber expensive UPS? I apologize for all of my questions but I'm having trouble following how this would work. I trust Makalu's opinion when it comes to PSU's though and if he says this will do the job I will go ahead and make the purchase. I just need to hear it one more time...

If I buy a couple of these, one for each computer so I don't have to use a power strip and to maximize the amount of Wattage available to each PC, then all of my brownout concerns are fixed? Technically the only thing I am worried about is that the fluctuating voltage that happens during a brownout will damage my computer parts. A voltage regulator/line conditioner, like the one linked above, is all I need to protect my PC from brownouts?

Once again thank you so much for your help :grin:.

 

That's right...the voltage regulator will plug into your wall and any brownouts down to 89V will be bumped up to 117V with transformers. And the line conditioner will filter out EMI and RFI interference. And it's surge protected...and comes with a $25,000 insurance program to replace anything plugged into it if it doesn't do it's job as advertised lol. But you won't have a battery pack for back-up if your power goes out.

 

Could care less about battery power if I don't have to use a UPS to protect from brownouts. Many thanks Makalu and to all who replied.

 

This may be a little late in this, but thought I would like to share some thoughts on this.

I to live in a house that we bought that was built in the 70's and experienced the same issues you are having, but being an electrician(thank GOD I got back to I.T.) I knew how to correct the problem, I replaced the panel and redid it and cussed out the electrician who originally wired it, god what an idiot that guy was, apparently load balancing was not an issue back then.

I agree with Makalu on his suggestion, but there is one other thing that should be addressed, is that you have an unbalanced load in your panel, and I suggest you contact a licensed electrician to see what your options are. What size is your electrical panel? 100A 200A service? Is the panel maxed out?

While getting an UPS or line conditioner is a plus, I would also look into balancing the load on your service panel and reduce the amount of work those devices would have to do in keeping your voltage at nominal. I myself am more of an APC kinda guy, I also use Square D Surgelogic® 120/208v TVSS, and an inline voltage regulator on my panel here at the house.

 

I would definitely put more time into fixing the wiring in this house and possibly contacting the utility company for information or to lodge a complaint but the simple fact is that I rent this house and my lease is up in three months. I only need a temporary solution for the time being. If it were my house or I planned on being here for a longer period of time I would definitely invest some money and time into fixing the core issues behind the brownouts.

However, given the circumstances, if I can just get by until I move I would definitely prefer that. Given the shape this place is in, not to mention the work the land lord put into the other side of this duplex two months ago when it was time to find new tenants for it, I am pretty sure this side of the house is going to get a face lift before it is rented out again.

As to your questions I'm really not sure what size my panel is, whether it is 100A or 200A service, or if the panel is maxed out. When it comes to electricity terminology my vocabulary is extremely limited. I really appreciate your reply though and must say I agree tackling the problem behind the brownouts should be a top priority.

One thing to note though, we are not the only people in the area who suffer from regular brownouts. I remember reading, during my research on why UPS are necessary and how they work, that in certain spots of the city such electric behavior is sadly a way of life. It can be the power company who is partially to blame or the houses placement on the city grid. Since the entire neighborhood, literally house lights (front yard landscaping lights, porch lights, flood lights, etc...) and street lamps dim multiple times during the night for no apparent reason, experiences regular brownout issues I'm sure the house wiring is only part of the problem.

EDIT
This is the article that I read I spoke of above; What Causes Brown-outs?

 

I know both PC systems have a maximum utilization of 750W but I also know they shouldn't push the PSU to its maximum, at least it should be a rare occasion. This being the case...

1) Would one 1200W Tripp Lite be able to handle both of the systems mentioned in my initial post?

2) Since the Tripp Lite only has four outlets and I need eight, would it be alright to use a power strip to make more outlets available or would using a PS somehow corrupt/dilute the electricity coming from the Tripp Lite unit?

External/Non-PC Items
1x Logitech X-540 (70W)
1x Logitech X-540 (70W)
1x Dell E773c CRT 17" Monitor (71W)
1x LG 1933 LCD 19" Monitor (33W)
Linksys WRT54G Wireless Router (6W?/12V)
1x Ambit SpeedStream Cable Modem (4W?/12V)

Total Non-PC Wattage: 253W

 

You mean you Couldn't care less, saying you could care less implys it's possible to care less because you did care a little in the first place. Saying you couldn't care less would suggest you don't care for it at all and that caring less would be impossible.

Rofl, don't mind me, i'm just being pedantic

 

yeah you can use a power strip to provide more outlets off of the line conditioner. Both of your systems use about the same amount...in the 300-350 watt range at the most. So, figure your power supplies have to produce 350w each. The Toughpowers are easily 80% efficient or higher at those load levels so they will need at most about 880W AC input to output 700w DC. 880 plus 253 is 1133W so it should work fine really...especially since this is worst case scenario with both systems peaked at once.

 

@Solinari: I'll try and remember that :heh:

@Makalu: Once again you have my gratitude

 

Just thought I'd add to the pedantism....

Bear in mind that if your PSU's have no PFC and together they pulled 880 watts from the AVR Unit, it would need to have a VA rating of about 1353VA (for the PSU's alone).
There will be peak currents to consider also.

Just something to think about.

 

Since we both plan to upgrade in the semi-near future and the units aren't terribly expensive we are going to go ahead and pick up one for each computer.