Project: L3p L4n

Quick question.

Why not put the Koolance controller somewhere else and use the touchscreen to monitor temps, etc? Also, where are you going to put your optical drive then?

 

Personally i don't like software controlled temperatures.
I prefer it "the hard way"

Who needs an optical nowadays

 

Been busy yesterday with the mod-attic again (Wife's ... )




Also been thinking all day how to fix the radiators to the case on the inside without being able to see it on the outside.





Going to use Velcro around the radiators and going to support them with a few layers of 5mm thick rubbertape.

 

nice work, this build is gonna be epic

 

Update.

First of all the nice package from
www.highflow.nl
The footprint on the box did scare the **** out of me but nothing was damaged : )






Because i replaced the PSU fan, i needed another fan, also one to replace the fan blades




Going for Feser Red, liked the colour more. Also some Red Dye to make it darker.




Some extension cables from Cubitek




And ... a cpu lapping kit ; )






Thanks for the nice discount Freddy, this wouldn't be possible without you!




Got me some new sawing blades for the 5mm aluminium.




And assembled the fans to the rads.




Finally could use the black M3 allen bolts.




Want to change this somehow




I think i'll use Bitspower mesh there too.




Fast sketch-up for the radiator placement : )

 

And the case almost completely disassembled.




Hope i'll ever get it working again : P




And taped it with extra smooth tape. (I'll cry if I'll scratch it : ) )







Still need to think of something for it.




Blood red acrylic it'll be




Even Origen AE works with a black marker when they damage something : )




Back to the fanholes.
Pre-drilling first.
Don't mind the drill's brand ; )






Also taped the jigsaw.




Ready to go.




And the first hole is there.




Two to go.




And the third!




Now finish the nice round edges.
Wanted to use the dremel, but got myself my file again, needs to be as straight as possible.




More tomorrow!

 

*Update*

Been polishing for 2 hours on the 3 holes to make it as straight as possible with nice round corners.




But finally they fit!




Tape can be removed.




Still need to paint the blank aluminum corners.






Need to be careful with the sawdust, so cleaned it first.




And further on with the plexi front for the Koolance controller.
Taping it first.




Drawing the round corners.




Started off with the dremel again, but the jigsaw won again : )




And again polishing.






Marking the plexi.



And again polishing it.



And it fits.
Next job like this im going to look for a lasercutting company near me ; )





Further on tomorrow!

 

Man!

Your projects are awesome!!!

I've seen your 'l3p d3sk' on guru3d's rig of the month, and hell, i wanted a "case" like that!!

now your l3p l4n is looking good also!

just passed to say that i like your projects a lot, continue like that!

 

Thanks a lot m8 !
Really like it when you enjoy my log and leave a reply

 

Amazing stuff, your l3p d3sk is legendary.

 

This case is really a beauty all by itself and if everything you've planned for it will work, it will be even better.

Love your attention to details. You don't skimp on time to do the proper polishing, contrary to some wannabe-modders that cut the holes and polish just enough not to cut themselves or even put rubber gasket without polishing at all

Great work! I can't wait for another update and for the end effect.

 

Sick! End of...

*tucks tail between legs and leaves*

 

Thanks m8, it is?

Thanks man.
I also do hope everything will work out as i planned, it's a tricky build for me.

 

Small update from Picasso

Carefully removed the tiny sharp edge with an old knife.
This way I get a sloping edge of +/- 0.3 mm.




Selected the right "black" out of 4 colours to get the best matching colour.
It became Revell mat black #6




The edges of the Bitspower mesh with Revell shiny black #7






Actually not my kind of job, too shaky




But i did it!




Tomorrow the fanguards back in.




And waste some time on this

 

Dude, in all seriousness you should apply to contract out to various case companies for advice. Few people have the skill you have in seeing a case and improving it.

 

+1 ill sign off on this :nerd:



if im ever in the market for a custom case, ill make sure to send you a pm lol.
awesome work :thumbup:

 

Thanks for the compliment! :smile:
It's just my first "casemod", guess i'll practise some more first

No problem, you know where to find me. :thumbup:

 

Lovely weather yesterday, so went out to lap my Cpu

This time I'm going to lap it faster then normal.
How to with extensive explanation can be found here:
http://www.l3p.nl/other-builds-mods/cpu-lapping/





Cpu still WITH warranty here






All you need..




Finding a way to protect the backside of the Cpu since Intel doesn’t
give a nice protection cap any more on boxed s1155 Cpu’s.




So we use marking / painters tape.



I’m using some rubber tape too.
This way you have a better grip and don’t get sore fingers.




Starting with P400.
Only a few “wipes” and … gone warranty.
The sanding with P400 is the most important and longest step.
Some people tape the sandpaper to the mirror, but if you hold it tight with your other hand you don’t have to.
Just go from left to right on the paper.
Don’t press on the cpu, just use the weight of your hand.
Every 2 minutes turn the cpu 90° clockwise.




2 Minutes with P400.
Nothing to see yet.




7 Minutes with P400.
You can see clearly this Cpu isn’t flat.




Another 3 Minutes with P400.
Total 10 Minutes.

 

Another 10 Minutes with P400.
Total 20 Minutes.




And another 10 Minutes with P400.
Total 30 Minutes.




You can see the IHS is completely flat copper now.
Now the real polishing comes.




10 Minutes with P600.
Total 40 Minutes.




Skipping P800.
Straightly to P1000.




10 Minutes with P1000.
Total 50 Minutes.
You can see it’s already starting to mirror.




Further on with P1500.




10 Minutes with P1500.
Total 1 hour.




P2000.




10 Minutes with P2000
Total 1 hours and 10 Minutes

 

Now we need to change our strategy.
First of all clean the mirror and the cpu.
This is because the old copper particles can ruin your polish job by rubbing them into the IHS.
Now you don’t go from left to right with the cpu.
Just move in a circle for 2 minutes and then turn the cpu 90° clockwise again.




10 Minutes with P2500.
Total 1 hours and 20 Minutes.




You can see the copper dust already starts to oxidise.




5 Minutes with P2500.
Total 1 hours and 25 Minutes.
Almost done.




Another 5 Minutes with P2500
Total One and a half hour!




Pictures are clickable for full resolution.











Back to the case tomorrow