Yokohama or Falken Tyres?

Discussion in 'The Guru's Pub' started by kanej2007, Aug 20, 2014.

  1. kanej2007

    kanej2007 Guest

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    Soon I'll be changing my car tyres.

    Currently I've got Dunlops but they are very rough and noisy.

    I want a smooth and quiet ride, no noisy road tyres.

    Pirelli, Michelin or Continental tyres would be great only they are extremely expensive, at least in Dubai that is.

    Both Yokohama and Falken are Japanese so I'm willing to get either, prices are far cheaper than the above.

    Which of the two would you recommend and offer a smoother ride?

    Open to suggestions of other brands but not interested in cheap Chinese, Korean or Indonesian branded tyres...

    Thanks gurus.
     
  2. Loophole35

    Loophole35 Guest

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    What are they for and what size? I'm not a big fan of either falkens tend to wear quick and yoko's tend to be noisy on the cheaper tires. On a passenger car I'm a big fan of Kumho Solus tires.
     
  3. IcE

    IcE Don Snow

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    This is kind of a vague question. Both brands have tons of different quality levels and tread types. Some tread types will create a lot of road noise on certain road conditions. I'm not sure about the desert, so someone who lives there will have to chime in.
     
  4. HeavyHemi

    HeavyHemi Guest

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    What model of car? What brands of tires are available?
     

  5. kanej2007

    kanej2007 Guest

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    They are for a 2003 Audi A3 hatchback car. Kumho tyres are also available here, unsure of the price. Size would be 225 front and 235 for the rear. No need for super low profile, 35 or 40 would be fine.

    All brands are available...

    Model 2003 Audi A3:

    [​IMG]
     
  6. IcE

    IcE Don Snow

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    Okay so flag #1, you have to get low profile tires. This means that the tire has lower dampening properties. When's the last time you had your rims balanced and alignment done? And what PSI do you run in your tire? I have a feeling that just outright buying a new set won't get you the desired effect.
     
  7. kanej2007

    kanej2007 Guest

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    Last time they were balanced were around a month ago. I did mention to the garage the tyres were rough and noisy especially when traveling at high speed.

    After looking at the brand and model, I was simply told that the specific model had issues with shaking and vibration at high speed.

    I'm using 30 PSI.
     
  8. Pill Monster

    Pill Monster Banned

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    Hmm I'm also looking for a new set to replace my 235/45/17 Goodyear Eagle F1's.

    Considering Bridgestone Potenza RE002 but I hear they don't last that long....any suggestions?
     
  9. thatguy91

    thatguy91 Guest

    A pressure of 30 PSI is too low for those low profile tyres. Generally low profile tyres like that require more pressure. If you read it from the tyre placard/book spec, make sure you are actually reading the correct column! The low-profile, large rimmed pressure is more likely closer to 40 PSI than 30. It's true that in general over-inflation will result in bad wear and a bad ride, but the same can be said for very low-profile tyres and too low of a pressure. I wouldn't be surprised that if you put in 38-40 PSI that some of the issues you mentioned go away. It's actually encroaching on dangerous having low-profile tyres under-inflated, especially at high speeds. On a standard profile tyre (lots of rubber) if you under-inflate at say, 22 PSI, you will just get a bulgey tyre and worse fuel economy. If you do high speed driving heat becomes an issue, as does driveability. For low-profile tyres, if you have tyre bulge you basically almost run the tyres on the rims, and it also could stress the tyre seal. Although 30 PSI isn't massively under-inflated for that profile, it is still bad.

    Tyre placards are generally tailored for comfort, and are not actually ideal. In most cases, best performance can be achieved around 4 PSI above what your tyre placard states (often they will say for high-speed driving to add an extra 4 PSI to reflect this).

    A very important fact is that low-profile tyres have benefits in handling at the expense of ride quality.

    It's more useful knowing the tyre spec size than the model of the car, since tyre size can vary across different sub-models and between different countries.

    It appears Falken is owned by the same company as Dunlop, so in a way getting Falken tyres is buying Dunlop tyres.
     
  10. kanej2007

    kanej2007 Guest

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    ^^ Thanks for the info thatguy. I will visit the petrol pump this evening on the way back from work and put 40 PSI in a four tyres.

    Hopefully this will make a difference. I'll report back tomorrow when arriving at the office.
     

  11. WildStyle

    WildStyle Guest

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    You would need to be more specific about particular models of tyres. Saying Yoko or Falken is like saying AMD or Nvidia, there are many different models produced by the manufacturers and they all differ quite significantly.

    It looks and sounds like you're on 18 or 19" wheels. If that's your car in the photo, then 19" OZ Ultraleggeras, probably cheap coilovers, probably bad geometry and you're asking about ride quality - might want to look at the rest of it first!

    That size of wheel is never going to give a particularly comfortable ride compared to a smaller size, but to give yourself a chance I would look at a tyre with a soft sidewall.

    I personally use Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetric 2. It's a sports/comfort tyre and still one of the best summer tyres you can buy. Last well too.

    Everyone will have their own favourites and nobody can try everything so you can always look up tyres on www.tyrereviews.co.uk and see what the general consensus is.
     
  12. rl66

    rl66 Ancient Guru

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    for perf on dry Falken is a nice price/grip ratio but keep in mind 2 major fail (at least on my car):
    -non preventive and very violent drop of grip at the edge
    -feel like teflon tyre on wet or heavy track

    Yokohama are very hard to find and expensive but i was very happy of my Advan set... too bad it use too fast :)

    since 2 year i use Toyo R888, it's dope tyre... only one bemol: on heavy car on edge the side is too hard (carbon inside) and kill the inner structure very fast (BMW around 1t). (on other hand i am way lighter since 1 year (560Kg cath) and so no problem ;) )
     
  13. rl66

    rl66 Ancient Guru

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    about pressure:
    if you got bigger weel the pressure is and should be the same: the size and the high of your tyre doesn't affect the pressure. weight of your car can need to be out of the constructor limit to be efficient (*edit* i mean if you get it light: no clim, no blaxon, no sono, no sit, carbon shell etc ) .

    if you go to track don't inflate too much or get too under pressure (both are the noobies cause of fail on track (sandbox ;) or wall if exesive confidence) ).

    knowing this... try and test until perfect tune.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2014
  14. thatguy91

    thatguy91 Guest

    I think I understand what you wrote... in any case 30 PSI is too low for his tyres. I think if he looked at his actual tyre size and looked at his tyre placard wherever it is placed, whether it's inside the door frame, in the glovebox, or just listed in the manual, he will find that around 40 PSI is what is recommended for that size. It will probably say around 30 PSI for the standard profile tyres. Of course, the tyre placard is just a guide I know, but as I said earlier they are usually listed as slightly lower than best-performance figures for a slightly softer ride (in general).
     
  15. kanej2007

    kanej2007 Guest

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    Close, the wheels are OZ and are 18" , good observation!

    Last night, I checked the pressure of the air in all tyres, they were all around 34-36 PSI.

    I put 40 PSI into all tyres and it did make some changes, for the better that is.

    - When cornering, sharp/fast turns at high speed, the car was more stable, grip was better.

    - Vibration/shaking was noticeably less. The tyre made less than usual noise accept for driving on a rough road of course!

    As you and others have mentioned, each brand of tyre have many different models, types, sizes, etc...

    When previously changing my tyres, I simply said gimme Dunlop, 225 width with a 35 profile for the front and 235 profile 40 for the rear. Never did I specify a model. Naturally the garage brought out any dunlops, unfortunately not the quietest of tyres, but next time it won't hurt asking for a model which produces less road noise!
     

  16. kanej2007

    kanej2007 Guest

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    Another question, instead of making a new thread I'll ask here since it's related, car related that is.

    My car battery is almost a year old and that too will need replacing, soon though not at this instant.

    When enquiring about car batteries, I saw multiple garages, just too see what choices I have. Naturally there were several brands and types.

    These are the brands I have to choose from:

    Hankook
    ACDelco
    Panasonic
    Solite

    What brand and which model would you recommend? There is no budget since there is not a huge difference with regards to price.

    Thanks gurus
     
  17. Veeshush

    Veeshush Maha Guru

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    Less I'm being stupid, car batteries usually can go around 6 years.

    Worth looking at (if you can find them where you are): http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/technology

    Optima and Diehard to my knowledge are the enthusiast car batteries. But honestly, I think anything and any brand that fits will work fine.
     
  18. thatguy91

    thatguy91 Guest

    Good to hear that the higher tyre pressures made a difference! You can see now why I was saying 30 PSI was too low for them (just imagine how bad it would have been).

    Batteries should last longer than a year, I would go as far as saying a battery would have to be very crappy to last only a year (or even 2). The idea would be to get a good capacity, high quality calcium battery (it's a lead acid battery with calcium added to the cells) and a good battery charger that has pulse charging etc.

    I don't believe any of those batteries are available here in Aus, at least not readily. The best batteries to get here are Century batteries (they're brilliant), but they probably aren't available where you are.

    The battery charger I would recommend is:
    http://projecta.com.au/Products/BatteryChargers/Pro-Charge.aspx

    The 8 A one is a good size for the size of the battery. There is a rejuvenation mode you can select (which runs for 24 hours then proceeds with charging), and you can select a calcium mode which is better to use with calcium batteries. You can use that mode with standard batteries as well, it just adds to the charge time.

    If you get a good battery and a good charger like the one I listed, the battery will probably outlast the car :). I'm serious! The main thing to remember is to check the fluid levels and fill with distilled water if necessary. Calcium batteries are a lot better and you can go a lot longer, standard (typically cheaper) batteries require more water.

    Don't bother with 'maintenance-free' batteries specifically, it's just a marketing thing. If the batteries is completely sealed it's pretty useless, because the water still gets used and the battery ends up being useless after a couple of years. Other maintenance free batteries you can still top up, they just have a different cap on the cells. The secret behind maintenance free batteries... they're calcium batteries!
     
  19. Anarion

    Anarion Ancient Guru

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    Personally I'd prefer Nokia.
     
  20. thatguy91

    thatguy91 Guest

    Veeshush is right about the Optima batteries, they are really good! You would bloody well hope so for the price, otherwise you would feel :banana:. You should also consider they still have a life expectancy and that expectancy is shorter than what you will have with a properly good standard (calcium) battery + good charger + proper maintenance.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 21, 2014

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