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combine water cool to standard cpu cooler?
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saqub88
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Default combine water cool to standard cpu cooler? - 03-27-2013, 13:57 | posts: 13

im curious.. if i was to attain a cpu cooler, remove the fans and run water through the fins then how would it fare against a standard water block.

seeing as the copper panel in water blocks arent flat, i would think surface area plays an important role in the cooling potential. the larger coolers would have significantly greater surface area.

the against would be that the water would run too far away from the cpu itself....

if the latter is the case.. then surely the thinnest possible copper sheet would be ideal.

could anyone shed any light on the physics of liquid cooling please
   
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mitzi76
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Default 03-27-2013, 14:41 | posts: 7,750 | Location: UK

interested to know how you are going to "remove the fins and run water through the fins" bit...
   
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Extraordinary
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Default 03-27-2013, 14:52 | posts: 4,775 | Location: 127.0.0.1

I think you would fry your PC when you powered it on and sprayed water all over the place

But I know what you are saying, run water through the copper heatpipes, I don't think they are open when they hit the block though, at least on mine it looks like they are flattened at the block end
   
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mmicrosysm
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Default 03-27-2013, 15:19 | posts: 670 | Location: Tonawanda

Quote:
Originally Posted by Extraordinary View Post
I think you would fry your PC when you powered it on and sprayed water all over the place

But I know what you are saying, run water through the copper heatpipes, I don't think they are open when they hit the block though, at least on mine it looks like they are flattened at the block end
Heatsinks I've seen are not pinched at the base. The tubes are flattened along one side so as to make a better contact to the CPU but liquid can pass through. So if OP can keep the system sealed with no water leakage it is plausible.
   
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Mufflore
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Default 03-27-2013, 15:25 | posts: 9,776 | Location: UK

Haha, I actually had a go at this a loooong time ago.
To be an effective water cooler, you need to get most of the cooling done very close to the source of heat.
The higher the pressure/speed at the point of cooling the better (up to the point of where oxidised metal gets stripped off the cooler, so not a silly amount of pressure/speed).

A large cooler is not best at achieving this because most of its cooling area is well away from the heat source.
Also, its very hard to build up pressure and speed for such a large surface area.

And then theres the leaks, internal and external.... LOL
   
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saqub88
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Default 03-27-2013, 15:56 | posts: 13

hmm nice to see atleast one person having tried this. allows us to step out of the realm of theory and into practice.

the idea would have been to create an enclosure yes to stop water frying everything else lol.

hmm didnt realise pressure was essential for the cooling but i guess it makes sense. that just leaves the 2nd part to be answered. am i better off using the thinnest copper sheet i can get away with and hitting the water on to it then washed away or do i need to get sum surface area into the mix as well. going by what u saying i wud think it just needs to be thin, then hit it with water and let it drain.



.......or just buy a premade one

Last edited by saqub88; 03-27-2013 at 16:06.
   
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Mufflore
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Default 03-27-2013, 16:40 | posts: 9,776 | Location: UK

Any metal situated away from the heat source will contribute very little to its cooling.
This is because nearly all of the heat will be carried away by the water before it can conduct very far.

More pressure will increase heat transfer to the water, so for the same cooler, higher pressure = higher performance.
(within limits though)

Seriously, you are much better off getting a known good water block, unless you wish to make a serious study of it.
   
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