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3770k Discussion thread - Heat Posible improvement!
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Bloodduty
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Default 3770k Discussion thread - Heat Posible improvement! - 12-20-2012, 11:58 | posts: 216 | Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne

Right this one is a good one but will void the warranty

I cut off the little heat sink off the CPU with a scalpel and under it was what I would call a biscuit for paste absolute rubbish

Photo is going up the night

After testing some paste i got the temps on stock to min 18oC to 20oC and max 46oC to 47oC not sure an the ambient

Before I did this, I was getting min of 32oC to 34oC and a max of 63oC to 66oC

Have to say it was worth voiding that CPU


Photos and more info ill put up to night as i am at work lol

Last edited by hallryu; 01-15-2013 at 23:52.
   
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hallryu
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Default 12-20-2012, 19:38 | posts: 11,415 | Location: England

Nice one. I have one to do myself but haven't actually put the system together yet.

What paste are you using as replacement? I'm going to go with the liquid metal TIM.
   
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Agent-A01
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Default 12-20-2012, 19:51 | posts: 6,880 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by hallryu View Post
Nice one. I have one to do myself but haven't actually put the system together yet.

What paste are you using as replacement? I'm going to go with the liquid metal TIM.
Dont use it on the CPU die unless you want it to blow up. Use Prolimatech pk-1 or gelid gc extreme
   
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hallryu
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Default 12-20-2012, 20:46 | posts: 11,415 | Location: England

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent-A01 View Post
Dont use it on the CPU die unless you want it to blow up. Use Prolimatech pk-1 or gelid gc extreme
Are you sure? I'm certain I read others using it and getting great results.
   
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alanm
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Default 12-20-2012, 21:00 | posts: 5,629

Be careful not to cut too deep.

 Click to show spoiler

   
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PhazeDelta1
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Default 12-20-2012, 21:15 | posts: 13,769 | Location: USA

The pic below is 3770k with the IHS taken off. I took mine off and replaced it with PK-3 and hot glued the IHS back on. It cut my load temps almost in half. I personally wouldn't use the Liquid Metal TIM directly on the CPU die because it's electrically conductive. I do know people that use it and have no problems, but there will always be that chance something might happen vs a TIM that's non conductive.


Last edited by PhazeDelta1; 12-20-2012 at 21:18.
   
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hallryu
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Default 12-20-2012, 21:26 | posts: 11,415 | Location: England

The top of the CPU die is a non conductive coating isn't it?
   
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BlackZero
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Default 12-20-2012, 21:39 | posts: 8,112 | Location: United Kingdom

Quote:
Originally Posted by alanm View Post
Be careful not to cut too deep.

 Click to show spoiler
Ouch!
   
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hallryu
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Default 12-20-2012, 21:41 | posts: 11,415 | Location: England

That's not a 3770. But yeah ouch indeed!
   
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PhazeDelta1
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Default 12-20-2012, 21:53 | posts: 13,769 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by hallryu View Post
The top of the CPU die is a non conductive coating isn't it?
I'm not sure on that.
   
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BlackZero
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Default 12-20-2012, 21:56 | posts: 8,112 | Location: United Kingdom

I assume they mean in case it gets spread too much and on to other parts.

Last edited by BlackZero; 10-21-2013 at 17:42.
   
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SLI-756
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Default 12-20-2012, 22:01 | posts: 7,603 | Location: Sunny Scotland

The liquid metal would seem the best option but with the melting process i've always been put off, but yeah how the hell do we put it back on (doesn't the mobo cpu lever keep it in place?), do we need to glue it back on like PhazeDelta1 done?
Also wth that pic in spoiler is an instant put off, the components are so close to edge! -edit that's not an ivy.

Last edited by SLI-756; 12-20-2012 at 22:04.
   
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hallryu
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Default 12-20-2012, 22:03 | posts: 11,415 | Location: England

The die is tiny in surface area compared to the actual socket size. Very little chance of that I would have thought.

Also having already experienced using it, it spreads very thinly and I didn't see any excessive creep on to other areas.
   
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PhazeDelta1
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Default 12-20-2012, 22:08 | posts: 13,769 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLI-756 View Post
The liquid metal would seem the best option but with the melting process i've always been put off, but yeah how the hell do we put it back on (doesn't the mobo cpu lever keep it in place?), do we need to glue it back on like PhazeDelta1 done?
Also wth that pic in spoiler is an instant put off, the components are so close to edge! -edit that's not an ivy.
No you dont need to glue it back on. It just makes it easier when you install the cpu into the mobo.
   
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SLI-756
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Default 12-20-2012, 22:10 | posts: 7,603 | Location: Sunny Scotland

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhazeDelta1 View Post
No you dont need to glue it back on. It just makes it easier when you install the cpu into the mobo.
Cheers, kinda wishing i had done this sooner now, once i get another heatsink cooler i'll be set.
   
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PhazeDelta1
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Default 12-20-2012, 22:14 | posts: 13,769 | Location: USA

There's a video on YT that shows how to remove the IHS and all that. If I come across it again, ill post it.

forgot I had that video saved

http://youtu.be/XXs0I5kuoX4
   
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hallryu
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Default 12-20-2012, 22:16 | posts: 11,415 | Location: England

Some great info here:

http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2261855
   
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BlackZero
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Default 12-20-2012, 22:20 | posts: 8,112 | Location: United Kingdom

Yeah, unless you are very clumsy, it's unlikely to spread on to other components. It's probably not as fiddly as screwing on a heatsink can be at times.

Last edited by BlackZero; 10-21-2013 at 17:44.
   
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PhazeDelta1
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Default 12-20-2012, 22:24 | posts: 13,769 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by hallryu View Post
I just can't bring myself to use a hammer lol.
   
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yasamoka
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Default 12-20-2012, 22:32 | posts: 3,354 | Location: Lebanon

I see that Liquid Metal TIM as a hassle to use. First of all, it's most probably Gallium based, so it leeches into metals, even copper, and it will be harder to remove as time passes. As I have read, it makes your cooler either perform worse with another application (if done improperly), or perform worse with other thermal pastes (which sounds logical as there are now two thermal interfaces between the heatsink and the chip). Now you're applying it to the CPU die, but what if you need to reapply or change pastes? I'm not saying that it WILL give worse performance, but it might.

Plus, it's electrically conductive, so if you do make a mistake and get it somewhere it shouldn't be, it would give you quite some trouble to remove it.

Third of all, if it comes into contact with Aluminum, it attacks it (eats it up). The CPU die under the IHS is not copper, and I reallly hope it's not Aluminum in case some unlucky fellow used that Liquid Metal in there and watched his CPU die being eaten up

And for what? A couple degrees difference (3 at the most), you get a syringe which barely gives a couple of applications, needs more precision than others, is risky, and bonds permanently with the cooler (CPU die in your case).

There may be undesirable effects as time passes, if the CPU die is not as shielded well with the used metal. The IHS is there to protect that chip. It certainly doesn't provide more surface area for heat dissipation, as most of the heat transfer occurs across the area of the IHS in direct contact with the CPU die.

I recommend you just go for Arctic MX4 or any thermal paste that you deem appropriate and has good enough performance for your application. Non-metal, non-conductive, spreads well, inexpensive, 4g and 20g tubes, no cure time, no need for reapplication every once in a while, easy to remove, etc...it certainly gives me peace of mind... I use it on everything (CPUs, GPUs, laptop CPUs & GPUs, netbooks, maybe my phone as well )
   
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hallryu
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Default 12-21-2012, 02:11 | posts: 11,415 | Location: England

The IHS is nickel plated copper so no issues there. I would love to know what material is underneath protecting the actual CPU on the PCB.
   
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smashly
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Default 12-21-2012, 02:31 | posts: 989 | Location: Australia

I've done the chop top on 3x 3570k cpu's.
I had one failure where one of the cpu was screwed, yet there was nothing done different in all 3 removal procedure.
I couldn't visibly see and damage done by the removal, but it's screwed 1 cpu.

The other 2 went without a hitch, but I didn't get as much as temp drop as the op posted.
I'd say around a 10~14c max temp drop under max load on the 2 cpu's that worked.
I used MX-4 for tim replacement.
If I hadn't seen 1 dead cpu out of 3 then I'd say it was worth it.

If I was to do a 3770K and it failed, it would hurt.
I don't know, the $100 more in price would just make the sting hurt more ...lol

Last edited by smashly; 12-21-2012 at 02:36.
   
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SLI-756
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Default 12-21-2012, 08:02 | posts: 7,603 | Location: Sunny Scotland

Yeah, a 3570k can be had for a reasonable price although i wouldn't want to lose the one i have, i'll admit i'm somewhat nervous after smashly's post above.
   
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PhazeDelta1
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Default 12-21-2012, 08:17 | posts: 13,769 | Location: USA

Possible electrostatic discharge. It's not uncommon for that to happen.
   
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hallryu
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Videocard: 2x HD7970 - QNIX/U2711
Processor: 3770k delid@4.8GHz - H320
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Default 12-21-2012, 11:24 | posts: 11,415 | Location: England

Quote:
Originally Posted by smashly View Post
I've done the chop top on 3x 3570k cpu's.
I had one failure where one of the cpu was screwed, yet there was nothing done different in all 3 removal procedure.
I couldn't visibly see and damage done by the removal, but it's screwed 1 cpu.

The other 2 went without a hitch, but I didn't get as much as temp drop as the op posted.
I'd say around a 10~14c max temp drop under max load on the 2 cpu's that worked.
I used MX-4 for tim replacement.
If I hadn't seen 1 dead cpu out of 3 then I'd say it was worth it.

If I was to do a 3770K and it failed, it would hurt.
I don't know, the $100 more in price would just make the sting hurt more ...lol
Were all three tested before delidding?
   
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