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  (#1026)
northy84
Master Guru
 
Videocard: sapphire 6970 stock atm
Processor: i7 930 @4.02GHz 1.200v
Mainboard: eVGA x58 FTW3
Memory: 6GB mushkin redline @1536
Soundcard: creative x-fi gamer
PSU: silverstone stryder 1200W
Default 10-17-2010, 19:07 | posts: 209 | Location: Ontario

crap i hope its not windows this is a fresh install on this new build. i'll ceck the logs. i actually just got my ram back from RMA, at which time i ran memtest but at stock speeds. now my qpi (fsb kinda) is way overclocked and my ram is actually underclocked by about 60MHz. i think my memory controller is overclocked lol. this intel architecture is a little bit foreign to me so im really not too sure yet what affects what via the memory side. still no bluescreens no other crashes, been playing lots of games like starcraft2 and bad company 2.

thanks for the help
   
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Old
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MeltManBob
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Videocard: ATI onboard 3200
Processor: 7750 BE
Mainboard:
Memory:
Soundcard:
PSU: Coolmax V-600
Default 10-25-2010, 00:45 | posts: 7

I think I have some pics, they're uploaded but I don't have any online photo albums to link from. The switch with the light is the secondary power button, the flip switch switch is my Cmos reset. The other pic is the just showing the extra fans in the middle of the case.
   
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allankorea
Newbie
 
Videocard: msi gtx 460 cyclone oc
Processor: amd phenom II 1055T x6
Mainboard:
Memory:
Soundcard:
PSU: no name 500 watt
Default 01-13-2011, 13:53 | posts: 1

Hi guys I'm new to th forum any help would be appreciated.
This is what I have:
1055T CPU,Gigabyte M68mt-d3 mobo,4GB DD3 Samsung 1333 RAM, MSI gtx 460 1GB Cyclone OC version, 500 Watt PSU (NO Name), Transformer 4 Evercool CPU cooler 500 GB Seagate HDD What is the best way to overclock CPU - I know that the mobo is crap any ideas?
   
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Dissentience
Newbie
 
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Videocard: Sapphire HD 5850 1GB
Processor: AMD Phenom II x4 965
Mainboard: MSI 870-G45
Memory: G.Skill DDR3 4 x 2GB CL8
Soundcard:
PSU: Antec TruePower 650w
Default 02-02-2011, 17:24 | posts: 5 | Location: Seattle, WA, USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by allankorea View Post
Hi guys I'm new to th forum any help would be appreciated.
This is what I have:
1055T CPU,Gigabyte M68mt-d3 mobo,4GB DD3 Samsung 1333 RAM, MSI gtx 460 1GB Cyclone OC version, 500 Watt PSU (NO Name), Transformer 4 Evercool CPU cooler 500 GB Seagate HDD What is the best way to overclock CPU - I know that the mobo is crap any ideas?
Always overclock from the BIOS. Increase the multiplier a little at a time and test for stability. Increase voltage in small increments (10-20mV at a time) to increase stability. I would really recommend getting a better power supply first though. There is nothing more important than a good power supply. Get a name brand power supply, at least 650 watts.
   
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Psychlone
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Videocard: Radeon HD5970 Engineering
Processor: i7 3820
Mainboard: ASRock x79 Extreme6/GB
Memory: F3-17000CL9Q-16GBZH
Soundcard: Gigaworks S750 7.1ch 700W
PSU: SPH1200
Default 02-06-2011, 19:32 | posts: 3,719 | Location: Searching for more light...

I could never figure out why people would post questions like allankorea (and many others have throughout the length of this thread).

This thread in itself has EVERY possible answer that a person would need to learn overclocking AMD systems. It's left literally nothing out, and works for every generation of AMD chips from the old AthlonXP all the way up to the current gen 6-core processors.

The only reason I can think of for a person to ask how to begin overclocking their AMD platform in a thread like this one, is because they failed to read the very first post - the one that explains EVERYHTING about overclocking AMD systems. (or they want someone to do it for them)

If someone needs extra advice or help, I'm clearly not above giving them the answers they seek (go back through the thread and see where I've helped people figure out their issues), but to just ask how to overclock IN the overclocking thread, well... you get the picture.


@ allenkorea: If you'd like, please read the first post in this thread - it should explain everything you need to know in explicit detail. If, however, you feel as though you need help, please don't hesitate to ask right here in this thread - but be prepared to ask questions in an intelligent manner (i.e. please don't ask "h0w do I 0verclox my AMD plz? k thnx)
Reading through the very first post in this thread will answer almost every question that could possibly arise - and failing that, I'm positive any question that's not been thoroughly explained in the first post, has been explained and regurgitated at least a couple more times throughout the rest of the thread, and even then, I totally understand when people don't quite get it - they've not heard it in just the right way for it to sink in for them, which is fine... that's why I'm still here, answering questions and always trying to figure out new ways to say the same things...


Good luck, and do post back if/when you have questions.

Psychlone
   
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cupper24
Master Guru
 
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Videocard: HIS IceQx 6950 Turbo 2GB
Processor: Intel i5 3750k
Mainboard: ASRock z77 Extreme4 555
Memory: 16GB Corsair DDR3-1600
Soundcard: Creative Xfi Fatal1ty Pro
PSU: Corsair HX850W Silver
Default 02-15-2011, 13:57 | posts: 475 | Location: A Stone's Throw from D.C., USA

Wow! It's good to see this thread is still thriving. I threw my old set-up from the "glory days" back together over the weekend.

You know, the old A8R32-MVP and the x2 4800 chip. I went back and read through all the OC stuff posted here, and found all those copious notes that I jotted down through the whole process. Must say, it has been, to date, the most fun I've ever had applying the scientific method to something NOT work related.

I'm about to pass that system on to my brother, so I'm getting it ready to hand over (new OS install, tweaking, re-configuring fans, tidying up the wiring, and all that good stuff). All I've got to say is he better take care of it! I feel defensive like I'm handing over one of my kids. It's funny when you dust something off from a few years back, you remember all the time and energy you put into it, and I almost would rather give up my current system and keep the old one, LOL!

In any case, I thought I'd shake off the dust here and thank everyone that helped out again! Good times peeps...

@ Psychlone - Hey man, it has been too long! Looks like you've hit it big with all that NDA *hush *hush stuff . I also noticed we are sporting the same case these days. I modded the crap out of mine as well. Just curious what you've done to yours... Will your NDA expire anytime soon, so we can know what's "under the hood?"

Hope all is well these days, bro!

cupper24
   
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  (#1032)
ONE 2 NV
Newbie
 
Videocard: MSI Radeon HD 5770
Processor: Phenom II X6 1090T 4.2Ghz
Mainboard: ASUS M4A890GTD-PRO/USB3
Memory: 16GB Kingston DDR3
Soundcard:
PSU: 1000w Kingwin
Default 03-02-2011, 10:38 | posts: 1 | Location: Chapmanville Wv

Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychlone View Post
Here's a TON of information collected and discovered over the course of many, many years on the AMD side.

This guide will help you to understand not only the fundamentals of overclocking, but goes very in-depth into the process of overclocking the AMD platform.
It was written using several 9850BE CPUs along with an M3A32-MVP Deluxe motherboard, but applies to ALL AMD processors from the old Athlon XP series* CPUs up to the current lineup of X6 processors.

*The older CPUs (up to and including DDR1 systems) does require a little different mathematical equation than what's listed in this guide - if anyone needs to know how this works, please don't hesitate to post!! - Otherwise, the entirety of this guide is geared more towards the newer hardware (AthlonII Phenom/PhenomII, in all cores manufactured)



DISCLAIMER: This tome of information is intended to be a guide, used as a template for YOUR overclocking adventure - in no way shall I be liable for any malfunction or damage as a result of using any of this information.
Everything in this post is from my own personal experience embellished with links and facts from other's personal experiences. It was complied from 42 pages of hand-written notes spanning 4 different stepping Phenom 9850BE processors, along with prior knowledge of AMD architecture...nothing here is hearsay, it's all real-world experience of what has proven to be an effective overclock for some of MY setups.


IN NO WAY do I mean for this guide to be followed to the letter - ALL components, even given the same exact stepping/lot #, sequential serial #'s, etc., will overclock the same.
There is no guarantee. You paid for parts that will perform at their advertised specifications, and what you're doing by overclocking is getting *more* than what you paid for (hence the 'no guarantees' part.)
What may work for one individual may or may not work for the next...even given the same exact components...just always remember this...sometimes you have to settle for less than what you originally expected - the way to make it 'ok' in your head is to remember the 'no guarantees' thing...you've already got 'something' for 'nothing' if you've overclocked *at all*.

In overclocking, there are inherent risks. The very fact that you're playing with voltages and cycles translates into playing with fire - literally. More voltage = more heat. I can't stress enough the importance of proper temperature monitoring and some real good CPU cooling as well as excellent case cooling.

Here's AMD's 'secret' overclocking formula (not discovered by me, but rewritten by me to be understandable by the masses: This equation is for the Phenom/AM2/AM2+ architecture, it's a bit different from the older (pre-K8) architecture in that our HT and NB are now a multiple of the FSB, as well as the divisor ratio is no longer rounded up when landing on a fraction (decimal) of a whole integer.

AMD Overclocking Equation: (applies to K10 architecture - see below for the small changes for older Athlon XP CPUs)
(CPU Multi) * (FSB) = (CPU Freq)
(CPU Multi) / (Memory Divider) = (Divisor Ratio)
(CPU Freq) / (Divisor Ratio) = (RAM MHz) (* 2 = DDR MHz)
(NB Multi) * (FSB) = (NB Freq)

(HT Multi) * (FSB) = (HT Freq) **
**note: the HT Multi is usually shown as a MHz option rather than a multiplier of the FSB, but in fact, it is a default of 10X the FSB
Also of note is that your HT *MUST* be < or = the resulting NB Frequency or you will not be stable.


** Equation for older AthlonXP up to socket 939 CPUs **
(CPU Multi) * (FSB) = CPU Freq
(CPU Multi) / (Memory Divider) = Divisor Ratio (ALWAYS ROUND UP ON SYSTEMS UP TO SOCKET 939)
(CPU Freq) / (Divisor Ratio) = RAM Freq (* 2 = DDR)
ON OLDER SYSTEMS, HT *MUST* BE EQUAL TO OR LESS THAN 2000MHz, which may require setting a lower HT (4x, 3x, etc. depending on the amount of FSB)


Memory Dividers for use in the equation above (use the BLUE value at the end for the equation, use the corresponding value that matches your BIOS while in the BIOS of your motherboard

I have included every conceivable way that these dividers can be displayed for every AM2/AM2+ BIOS. Use the DECIMAL value in the equation above and use one of the corresponding values for your specific BIOS. I've only included the 800MHz and the 1066MHz values, as this is what the majority of us are using.

533 = 1066 = 16:6 = 8:3 = (8 / 3 = 2.6666666) = 2.6666666
400 = 800 = 12:6 = 6:3 = (6 / 3 = 2) = 2



** Memory Dividers for use in socket 939 systems and older **

200 = 400 = 1/1 = 1:1 = (1 / 1 = 1) = 1
183 (or 180 on some motherboards) = 366 = 9/10 = 9:10 = (9 / 10 = .9) = .9
166 = 333 = 5/6 = 5:6 = (5 / 6 = .833333) = .833333
133 = 266 = 2/3 = 2:3 = (2 / 3 = .666666) = .666666
100 = 200 = 1/2 = 1:2 = (1 / 2 = .5) = .5



There are footnotes collected from my adventures at the bottom describing some of the more obscure functions and some of the hidden options. Read them carefully, test each config for yourself and decide what works for you.

About MONITORING YOUR TEMPS:
ASUS has a nifty little utility called PCProbe2 that comes on the CD that came with the motherboard... USE IT. I also found that CoreTemp gives a very close reading with the M3A32-MVP Deluxe.
If your temps at *any* time reach into the mid 50*C range, STOP and readdress your CPU and case cooling before continuing any further. (High 60*C is the upper limit, but we don’t need to push it, right?)
Just ensure that you're using *something* to monitor your temps while spending any time in the overclocking arena!

There are loads of good aftermarket CPU cooling options out there...I personally have the ThermalRight Ultra-120 Extreme, and I'm very pleased with not only it's performance, but it's sound level as well (with 2 Scythe S-Flex fans).

Also of importance is your case cooling. Every case I've ever had IS NOT pre-setup with what turns out to be the most efficient fan arrangement. It's up to YOU to decide what fan needs to be where, which direction it should be (pulling air IN or pushing it OUT) and what make/model/CFM/RPM you need. Just be aware that without fresh, cool air coming IN the case, all you've got is warmed air to circulate across your CPU's HS/f, and without adequate EXHAUST, you've really just shot yourself in the foot again - BOTH are paramount to a decent overclock (I really can't stress this enough - MOST people miss case cooling and concentrate solely on their CPU HS/f)

All in all, by the very nature of overclocking, you need to know that you're taking a risk of exposing specific components to more voltage/heat/cycles than they're designed to take, which *could* or *may not* lead to their early or eventual demise.

I'm sure most people that will read through all that crap already understand the risks...it's just pertinent for me to say...I can't be held liable for any kind of overclock gone wrong.

Alrighty then...

Some here's some terminology that we're going to be familiar with by the end of this post:

TERMINOLOGY and BACKGROUND INFO:

AMD's HT: HyperTransport (HT), formerly known as Lightning Data Transport (LDT), is a bidirectional serial/parallel high-bandwidth, low-latency computer bus. The HyperTransport Technology Consortium is in charge of promoting and developing HyperTransport technology. The technology is used by AMD and Transmeta in x86 processors, PMC-Sierra and Broadcom in MIPS microprocessors, NVIDIA, Via, SiS, ULi/ALi, and AMD in PC chipsets, Apple Computer and HP in Desktops and notebooks, HP, Sun, IBM, and IWill in servers, Cray in supercomputers, and Cisco Systems in routers.

HyperTransport runs at 200-5200 MHz (compared to PCI at either 33 or 66 MHz). It is also a DDR or "double-data-rate" bus, meaning it sends data on both the rising and falling edges of the 1400 MHz clock signal. This allows for a maximum data rate of 2600 MTransfers/s each direction. The frequency is auto-negotiated, but can be changed via a multiplier, which is a multiple of your FSB.

HyperTransport supports auto-negotiated bus widths, from 2 (bidirectional serial, 1 bit each way) to 32-bit (16 each way) busses are allowed. The full-sized, full-speed 32-bit bus has a transfer rate of 22,400 MByte/s, making it much faster than existing standards. Busses of various widths can be mixed together in a single application, which allows for high speed busses between main memory and the CPU, and lower speed busses to peripherals, as appropriate. The technology also has much lower latency than other solutions.

So, in a nutshell, HT is the bandwidth used between your memory and CPU and the CPU and other peripherals.

AMD's HTT: (HyperTransport Technology (HTT) - I know, confusing!!!) The A64 has no FSB (or Front Side Bus) as we know it. That's because the memory controller is built-in to the CPU rather than being on the motherboard. Basically, HyperTransport replaces the FSB.
So raising the HTT is how we raise the CPU cycles...it's the amount of communication a CPU can push in a given amount of time.
This has reverted (in terminology only) back to FSB with the new boards and new BIOS, probably to make it easier and less confusing. So, HTT = FSB on the new AM2/AM2+ boards.

CPU Multiplier: The CPU multiplier is one way for processors to run much faster than the clock speed of the motherboard or RAM allows. For every tick of the front side bus (FSB) clock, a frequency multiplier causes the CPU to perform x cycles, where x is the multiplier.
For example, if the FSB has a clock speed of 200 MHz and the CPU multiplier is 10x, then the processor would run at 2000MHz or 2.0GHz.
One downside of the multiplier is that it only increases CPU speed. In the previous example there is a multiplier of 10x, but RAM still runs at 200 MHz, so the computer can only access memory at 1/10th of the processor speed, 200 MHz, the speed of the FSB. Because of this, many overclockers prefer to have lower multipliers with higher FSBs.
With the Phenom systems (currently using the 790X and 790FX chipsets) - the CPU Multiplier is really the best way to increase your CPU Frequency. Adding FSB to an already high CPU Multiplier can improve CPU Frequency, but most times leads to instability without lots of voltage to help it out.

Memory Divider: One popular way of overclocking your processor is to increase your FSB. This increases the processor bus, and memory bus equally. In the event that your processor still has the ability to increase in speed, but your memory is maxed out, you would use the memory divider to slow down your memory by running it at a fraction of it's rated speed. Example: You want to run your FSB at 300Mhz, but your memory maxes at 1066Mhz. Set the FSB to 300Mhz, and the memory divider to 1/2, and the memory will run at 533Mhz. (primitive example, but you should get the idea) – the point here is that running a memory divider *literally* runs your memory at a fraction of its original speed…this is a good thing as we’ll learn later.

Now the fun parts:
** There are 2 ways of overclocking AMD CPUs effectively. We'll explore the FSB method in detail below, but the easiest way, and often times the most effective way, is by CPU Multiplier increase alone (which may require higher VCORE (CPU Voltage) but nothing else per se.

Overclocking utilizing the CPU Multiplier method of overclocking is very simple:
Increase your default CPU Multiplier until it won't pass POST, then you may increase the VCORE and try raising it some more. Really, the only thing that is imperative with this type of overclocking, is to ensure your CPU temperature is within normal full-load limits (again, upper 60*C range for Phenom architecture, lower 60*C range for PhenomII architecture)
Very simple, yet effective.
Some of you may find that overclocking via the CPU Multiplier method will yield better results than any other way, and some of you may find that overclocking via the FSB method will yield better results.
It's really up to you to find out what type of overclocking gives the best results - testing with Everest's Cache and Memory Benchmark as well as SuperPI are very quick and dirty, but give you a decent idea of throughput vs. other settings.

Here, we'll explore the FSB method of overclocking in depth:

Finding your maximum values is the first step for a reason - without this base information, you have no idea what's going to cap out on you and where it's going to happen...it's like taking a stab in the dark without even a semblance of an educated guess.


FINDING YOUR MAXIMUM VALUES:
It's extremely important to find each of your component's maximum values before attempting any relevant overclock. Without such knowledge, it's all just a stab in the dark, but with the knowledge of where everything caps out, you have an excellent idea of what you can expect from each individual component.

Now then, here is what I do when beginning a new overclock:
(We're going to try to find the limit for your motherboard's FSB first)

Drop the CPU Multiplier to it's lowest setting
Drop the HT Link Speed to it's lowest setting
Drop the RAM divider to it's lowest setting


Begin by raising the FSB (CPU Frequency) in 5 - 10MHz increments - rebooting to POST (Power On Self Test - it's the very first screen of text in black and white that you see when you first start your computer from an OFF state) in between each change - until it wont POST (Power On Self Test) - note the number as you've just found your motherboard's maximum FSB. This is important, as your motherboard really is a major determining factor on just how far you can overclock your CPU/RAM and other peripherals. I have found my M3A32-MVP Deluxe is capable of 286MHz FSB with all 4 Phenom 9850BE's that I've tested...I know that it would be different for a different architecture CPU.
Drop it down to a comfortable stable level decided on from the equation above.
(yep, we're going to be using that equation *a lot*, so just get used to it!!!)

CPU Multiplier:
Begin with your RAM at it's lowest setting, your HT at it's lowest setting, your NB at it's lowest setting and your FSB at 200, then begin raising your CPU Multiplier 1 step at a time, rebooting between each change until it fails POST. This is going to be the maximum CPU Multiplier that you're going to be able to use.

NorthBridge: You can adjust your NB frequency using a multiplier in the BIOS - remember it's a multiple of the FSB. I've found mine to be completely stable at 2600MHz. You'll have to experiment with the NB voltage to find your full-speed maximum.
Find this by raising it one level and rebooting all the way into Windows, repeating until it won't boot into Windows.

HT Link Speed Remembering that it's actually a 10X multiple of your FSB, increasing the FSB also increases your HT. I've found mine stable at over 2400MHz, but in conjunction with the NB, it's stability is capped at 2400MHz when the NB is at 2400MHz or higher. Find this the same way as the NB.
The secret for getting a higher MHz throughput out of the HT is because of the chipset and the options for it.
Higher voltage helps in the stability for higher bandwidth - But you've GOT to pay attention to your motherboard temp now! Mine's sitting at 38*C right now, and doesn't really get much higher - this is due to adequate case cooling, which I suggest you definitely follow up on!!! (since the Northbridge on the M3A32-MVP Deluxe is passive, it really relies on good airflow around it to keep it cool! - if at any point you feel uncomfortable about the NB reaching into the mid 40*C range, you may want to check into an active cooling, or perhaps just removing the HS assembly and replacing the ASUS thermal gunk with a nice fresh layer of Arctic Silver5 or Ceramique) along with using the crap copper heatsink that came with the board...even though the memory cooling part is useless, the extra copper fins do help to dissipate a lot of the heat generated by the NB.


You can begin playing with the equation above now that you know *most* of the variables and what all your individual component's maximum values are.
If your temps are good (~50*C or below at FULL LOAD) and your motherboard temps are good (38-44*C) then you can start experimenting with other voltages (NB/HT/PCI PLL, etc.)
(this really becomes nothing more than a balancing act at this point - and it takes time...have patience, take breaks - if you get too frustrated, stop for 10-15 minutes and do something else in a different room...I'm not kidding! I've been soooo close to putting my foot all the way through my case that it's not even funny, so I *know* what I'm talking about - TAKE BREAKS! - oh, and try not to drink alot of coffee, it only will agitate you and make it very aggravating!)

If you've made it this far, you've just found a *comfortable* level from which to work...now the hard part begins!

RAM Overclocking:
Raise ALL your RAM latencies to 3-4 notches (where possible) above stock SPD for the speed you've decided to run.
Leave your voltage where the manufacturer recommends it (don't go higher - the BIOS text goes red for a reason!) - Later on, you can adjust it up to 2.50V (as a MAX), but you will not need it to be even .01 higher - The point of diminishing returns happens when you've exhausted all overclocking attempts and it will not increase no matter how much voltage you throw at it.
Now, starting with the SECOND one (tRAS), drop it one notch and reboot to POST (and I *mean* [1] notch at a time - you do more than that, you'll find yourself resetting your CMOS twice a much as you're already going to!!!!), repeating until it will not pass the POST, clear the CMOS if you have to, and raise that one value one notch.
Do the same for ALL the latencies (rebooting to POST in between EACH AND EVERY CHANGE) - leaving tREF at 127.5ns (this will help with stability at higher MHz)

This is a *very* long and arduous process, but the benefit will be more than worth the effort you put into it!
Once you've made it this far, try changing the CMD (Command Rate) Timing to 1T and see if it boots all the way into Windows - if not, change it back to 2T. (most sticks won't run at a 1T CMD Rate on AM2/AM2+, so don't feel bad - it was worth the try!)

After you've found all the lowest latencies for the *comfortable* overclock, you can begin to see if there's any more...
By raising the CPU voltage, (NEVER HIGHER THAN 1.55V) you can increase stability in your overclock - but it comes at a great price - HEAT. If your CPU gets above 50*C under full load (should be in the 35-42*C range for idle - but load temps are the most important!), you need better cooling, or need to settle on an overclock that utilizes less voltage (which means less FSB and/or higher multiplier and maybe even a different memory divider)

Here are some links to software that you'll need...you probably don't need it all as a few are redundant and overkill, but here they are nonetheless.

I'd DEFINITELY pick up OCCT, Orthos, SuperPI, CPU RightMark and RMMA from the Benchmarking section, *everything* from the Monitoring section, then Memset and AMD Overdrive from the MISC section/

Benchmarking Software:
OCCT Perestroïka
Orthos StressPRIME 2004
SuperPI (use for quick and dirty bench tests to discover if what you did was faster or slower)
SiSoft Sandra
CPU RightMark
RMMA
RAMTester
wPrime
MaxPi is a newer version of SuperPi coded for multiple core processors, and a relatively new addition to this list - it gives some interesting results, but a certain drawback is that it's written in Russian...(personally, I will use it once in a while, but when testing if what I changed in BIOS is better or worse for number crunching, I'll still use SuperPi - it's quicker and gives results in a language I can understand!)
and then of course the FutureMark line of PC and GPU benchmark products - but I'd only get PCMark Vantage for this...and really, only if you want to. (or optionally, 3DMark Vantage, but then you're scoring more than just your CPU...)


Monitoring Software:
ASUS PCProbe 2
CPUz
Everest 4 - also contains a Cache and Memory Benchmark that I use all the time.
AMDClock
CoreTemp


Calculators and MISC tools:
RMGotcha
MemSet
AMD Overdrive

Below is my current overclock using BIOS 1102 - again, DO NOT just input these values into your own, either you'll not be stable (BEST case scenario) or you'll fry something altogether - you'll need to do the legwork yourself for YOUR components.

MAIN
Press F4 and we'll see some 'hidden' settings further in...
(leave all these options at default)
Legacy Diskette A [Disabled] Unless you use a Floppy Drive
Primary IDE Master [Not Detected]
Primary IDE Slave [Not Detected]
SATA1 [Not Detected]
SATA2 [Not Detected]
SATA3 [Not Detected]
SATA4 [Not Detected]
Storage Configuration
On Chip SATA Channel [Enabled]
On Chip SATA Type [IDE]

ADVANCED
.JumperFree Configuration
..AI Overclocking [Manual]
..FSB Frequency [210]
..PCIE Frequency [110] (I wouldn't experiment much with this one, but some boards do have a 'sweet spot' between 100 and 115 usually)
..Processor Frequency Multiplier [15.00x]
..Processor Voltage [1.325] - which is actually 1.318 *see footnote 1
..Processor-NB Voltage [Auto] - this supplies extra voltage to the CPU and isn't necessary unless extreme suicidal overclocking!
..CPU VDDA Voltage [2.6v] (CPU voltage regulation circuits)
..CPU-NB HT Link Speed [2.4GHz] - this has to be proven stable before just jumping into it!
..DDR Voltage [2.10] - set this to your RAM's specific voltage requirement!
..Northbridge Voltage [Manual]
..Hyper Transport Volatge [Auto]
..Core/PCIe Voltage [Auto] - Voltage supplied to the NB chip itself
..NB PCIE PLL [Auto]
..Southbridge Voltage [Auto]
..Auto Xpress [Enabled]
..CPU Tweak [Enabled]

Memory Configuration
..Bank Interleving [Auto]
..Channel Interleaving XOR of Address bits [20:16,9] - *ONLY* if you're running more than 2 banks of RAM, else [Disabled]
..MemClk Trisate C3/ATLVID [Disabled] *see footnotes
..Memory Hole Remaping [Enabled]
..DRAM Ganged Mode [Disabled] - you want to run UNganged, no matter what it's called in your BIOS
..Power Down Enable [Disabled]
..Read Delay [Auto]
..DCQ Bypass Maximum [Auto] - setting to 4 or 6 may help yield stability at high MHz values
.DRAM Timing Configuration
..Memory Clock Mode [Manual]
..Memory Clock Value [1066 MHz]
..2T Mode [Enabled]
..DRAM Timing Mode [Both]
..CAS Latency (CL) [5 CLK]
..TCWL [5 CLK] - lower values equal faster writes, but will cause instability at high MHz
..TRCD [5 CLK]
..TRP [5 CLK]
..TRAS [18 CLK] - bios 1002 and up overrides this setting: If tRTP is set to Auto then -2 from what the setting is. Any other tRTP setting and this is 18 no matter what the setting is.
..tWR [4 CLK]
..tRFC0 [127.5 ns]
..tRFC1 [127.5 ns]
..tRFC2 [127.5 ns]
..tRFC3 [127.5 ns]
...TRC [26 CLK] - BIOS 1002 overrides this setting if tRTP is not on Auto. If tRTP is not on Auto this is 26.
..TRRD [2 CLK]
..tWTR [3 CLK] - BIOS 1002 orverrides this setting if tRTP is not on Auto, the resulting setting will be reduced by 1 otherwise.
..tRTP [2-4 CLK] In bios 0801 anything but auto and TRC and TRAS are overridden, BIOS 902 and higher, 2-4 CLK and TRAS will function as set.
..tRWTTO [4 CLK] - for my memory it is Auto or same as tWR or will not boot.
..tWRRD [Auto]
..tWRWR [Auto]
..tRDRD [Auto]
..PLL1 Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
..PLL2 Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
..AI Clock Skew for Channel A [Auto]
....Current Clock Skew Advance 300ps
..AI Clock Skew for Channel B [Auto]
....Current Clock Skew Advance 450ps
**testing with clock skew will lead to a lot of BSOD's, but can give a little performance if you hit the sweet spots - ALL sticks will behave differently**

AI Net 2
..Marvell Post LAN cable [Disabled]

CPU Configuration
..GART Error Reporting [Disabled]
..Microcode Updation [Disabled]
..Secure Virtual Machine Mode [Disabled]
..AMD Cool 'n' Quiet Function [Enabled] - after extensive testing, I can overclock to my system's maximum and still have CnQ enabled
..ACPI SRAT Table [Enabled]
..Processor Downcore [Disabled] - this effectively shuts down between 1 and 3 cores
..AMD Live! [Disabled]

Chipset
..Primary Video Controller [PCIE GFX0-GFX2-GPP] - this setting identifies the top blue slot as primary. GFX2 refers to the top black slot (Port #03)
..PCI Express Configuration
..GFX Dual Slot Configuration [Enabled]
..GFX Dual Slot Configuration [Disabled]
..Peer-to-Peer among GFX/GFX2 [Disabled] this setting is for running cards connected to the top blue and black slots on equal status for issuing requests and commands
..GPP Slots Power Limit, W [75] - Maximum wattage that can be supplied through the slot (0-250)
..Port #02 & #03 Features
....Gen2 High Speed Mode [Disabled] found this was the best setting for me according to 3DMark06 - may need to enable for CF
....Link ASPM [Disabled] - ASPM stands for Active State Power Mangement
....Slot Power Limit, W [75] - Maximum wattage that can be supplied through the slot (0-250)
..Port#04 through #10
....Gen2 High Speed Mode [Disabled]
....Link ASPM [Disabled]
..Port#11 Features Bottom blue slot
....Gen2 High Speed Mode [Disabled] - again, may need to be enabled for CF
....Link ASPM [Disabled]
....Link Width [x16]
....Slot Power Limit, W [25] - Maximum wattage that can be supplied through the slot (0-250)
..NB-SB Port Features
..NB-SB Link ASPM [Disabled]
..NP NB-SB VC1 Traffic Support [Enabled] (virtual channel 1) helps with Isochronous Flow-Control Mode or [Disabled] if not using Isochronous Flow Control, 2xCLK or UnitID Clumping * see footnotes

Hyper Transport Configuration
..Isochronous Flow-Control Mode [Enabled] or [Disabled] if not used in conjunction with the other variables * see footnotes
..HT Link Tristate [CAD/CTL/CLK] or [Disabled] if not used in conjunction with the other variables * see footnotes
..UnitID Clumping [UnitID 2/3&B/C] or [Disabled] if not used in conjunction with the other variables * see footnotes
..2xLCLK Mode [Disabled]

Onboard Devices Configuration
..Onboard Floppy Controller [Disabled] unless you use a Floppy Drive
..Floppy Drive Swap [Disabled] unless you use a Floppy Drive
..Serial Port1 Address [Disabled] unless you use a serial device
..HD Audio Azalia Device [Auto] left at default
..Front Panel Support Type [HD Audio] (neither of these 2 items need to be enabled if you're using a 3rd party sound card
..1394 [Disabled] unless you use a 1394 device
..WiFi [Disabled] unless you use the WiFi motherboard attachment
..Onboard LAN [Enable]
..Onboard LAN Boot ROM [Disabled]
..Marvell 6111 SATA Controller [Disabled] (found NO use for this and I have 6 HDDs)
..Marvell 6121 SATA Controller [Enable] (all HDDs/DVD drives use this channel)
..Marvell Option ROM [Disabled]
..Primary Display Adapter [PCI-E]

PCI PnP
..Plug and Play OS [No] - let your motherboard decide IRQs for what's plugged into it, not Windows!
..PCI Latency Timer [64] - higher values may create more stability, but at the cost of increasing PCI bandwidth time
..Allocate IRQ to PCI VGA [Yes]
..Palette Snooping [Disabled]

USB Configuration
..USB Functions [Enabled]
..USB 2.0 Controller [Enabled]
..USB 2.0 Controller Mode [HiSpeed]
..BIOS EHCI Hand-Off [Disabled] - Windows takes care of this for you
..Legacy USB Support [Auto] - no one uses any 1.0 USB anymore, but can cause the system to crash if disabled, Auto will automagically shut-down in the event no 1.0 USB device is found

POWER
..Suspend Mode [Auto]
..Report Video on S3 Resume [No] default
..ACPI 2.0 Support [Enabled] ACPI Power Management - Required for Cool n Quiet
..ACPI APIC Support [Enabled] ACPI APIC

APM Configuration
all settings left at default

Hardware Monitor
..CPU Fan Warning Speed [Disabled]
..Smart Q-Fan Function [Disabled] this is what the fourth pin is for on four pin fan connectors, so if you use this function, set to [Enabled]

BOOT
..Boot Device Priority
...1st Boot Device [(set to your OS HDD in 'Hard Disk Drives')]
...2nd Boot Device [Disabled]

Boot Settings Configuration
..Quick Boot [Enabled] - only set to enabled AFTER you're done tweaking your overclock!
..Full Screen Logo [Disabled] - because I like to see the POST
..AddOn ROM Display Mode [Force BIOS]
..Bootup Num-Lock [On]
..Wait for 'F1' Error [Enabled] - waits for user input in the event of an overclock failure
..Hit 'DEL' Message Display [Enabled] - reminds you to push DEL to enter BIOS options
..Chassis Intrusion [Disabled] unless you use this feature with your case

Security
all settings left at default

FOOTNOTES

1) There is a small bug in every version of the M3A32-MVP Deluxe BIOS that UNDER-volts your input. At 1.3V in BIOS, read with any software application (not including AOD) - it will be 1.28V, and the difference increases with the increase in voltage.
2) Isochronous Flow-Control Mode: This has to do with how information is passed between the CPU, the GPU and the RAM along the NorthBridge. It has been a part of the BIOS for HT since AGP 8X, but the option to enable or disable it is a fairly recent addition. When this option is enabled, it assigns the information a number, in the order it was received. Each bit of information is then processed in that order along the route. In toher words, there is no loss of information, but the processing in this orderly manner has drawbacks. If you choose to enable this feature, you will also need to enable UnitID Clumping and then under PCI-E COnfiguraiton and the NB-SB section of the BIOS, VC1 needs to be enabled as well.
3) UnitID Clumping: Simply put, it accounts for not all devices being equally quick at processing information. This allows each device to support a longer waiting line. VC1 accounts for a major drawback of Isochronous Flow-Control mode in that the flow control mode does not allow any information to break line. Everything must wait it's turn. Therefore, if one piece of info is intended for the CPU and in front of it is info the for GPU, the info for the GPU needs to be processed before the CPU info is processed; plus, if there is a waiting line of info to be processed onthe GPU, the CPU info is held up all that much longer. VC1 comes to the rescue by letting the CPU info break line, bypassing the GPU info jam to join the CPU info queue.
4) Tristating (in all forms): Tristating is a power saving feature in addition to ASPM linking. Whatever sections you want to enable Tristate in, you reduce the energy needed to run that area, but the downside is that you also reduce that area's performance.
5) 2xLCLK: This setting only affects HT 3.0, so Phenom's may benefit from it while with Athlon's, it just does not apply. LCLK stands for Latency Clock. The 2x means that instead of one full bandwidth HT Link you are requesting two half bandwidth HT Links. For performance, at times it is better to have a two lane highway; traffic flowing in both directions at the same time along the same strip of asphalt at 50mph, than it is to have a single lane highway along the same strip of asphalt with traffic lights controlling the directional flow at 100mph.

Hopefully, there's enough information there to get some of you going, and certainly enough to read more than once, pulling something new each time it's read.

Good luck to all! If there is any information that needs to be changed, added or removed, please pm me and I will take care of it.

Psychlone

Great Tut...
   
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  (#1033)
Tranceholic
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Default 03-13-2011, 00:54 | posts: 911 | Location: Canada/Taiwan

hi new to overclocking here

i can't seem to get past 214 because it won't boot up to bios, does that mean i have to up the (default) cpu voltage?

   
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deltatux
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Default 03-13-2011, 00:59 | posts: 19,054 | Location: Toronto, Canada

@traceholic, why not simply change your multiplier since your CPU has an unlocked multiplier. It's much better for overclocking beginners since it only changes the CPU frequency and not anything else. The base clock changes CPU, RAM, Northbridge and the HyperTransport links. Any one of these may cause instability in OC and must be fine tuned slowly to find stability.

deltatux
   
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  (#1035)
xbl4ckc0d3x
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Default 04-02-2011, 02:17 | posts: 1 | Location: USA

Thanks for the Tutorial was very helpful I am a noob and was very easy for me to OC my new rig.
   
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Old
  (#1036)
Pill Monster
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Default 04-02-2011, 15:03 | posts: 24,248 | Location: NZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by deltatux View Post
@traceholic, why not simply change your multiplier since your CPU has an unlocked multiplier. It's much better for overclocking beginners since it only changes the CPU frequency and not anything else. The base clock changes CPU, RAM, Northbridge and the HyperTransport links. Any one of these may cause instability in OC and must be fine tuned slowly to find stability.

deltatux
Hey slightly OT, but do you know what LLC is for?
I have it disabled atm, but as this is my first AMD board idk what it does..
   
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Which Bank for Installing RAM?
Old
  (#1037)
Lavcat
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Default Which Bank for Installing RAM? - 05-06-2011, 01:11 | posts: 165 | Location: NJ USA

Today I replaced an OCZ3RPR16002G 2x2GB set of memory with a Mushkin 997000 2x4GB set. I am pleased that the Mushkin runs at its rated parameters (at least so far after an hour of testing), something that I was never able to get the OCZ to do.

Because of my Zalman CPU cooler neither the OCZ nor the Mushkin modules will fit in bank 1 of the Asus M4A79T Deluxe. The M4A79T Deluxe manual states "It is recommended to install the memory modules from the orange slots [i.e. bank 1] for better overclocking capability." The orange slots are the ones closest to the CPU socket. Asus marks the orange slots A1 and B1 and the black slots (where my memory is) A2 and B2.

However under the section Memory Performance tuning – AM3 / DDR3 the AMD “Dragon” Platform Technology Performance Tuning Guide says "The DIMM slots furthest away from the CPU socket should be equipped first (usually marked as DIMM slot 2&3
or A2&B2)."

Using two DIMM's which bank is correct to populate? Which bank is recommended? (Again, I have no choice, unless I replace my cooler.) Why, I wonder, do Asus and AMD make different recommendations?

Forgive me if the answer is in this thread somewhere. I have read a lot of the sticky but so far not all 42 pages.
   
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deltatux
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Default 05-06-2011, 01:21 | posts: 19,054 | Location: Toronto, Canada

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pill Monster View Post
Hey slightly OT, but do you know what LLC is for?
I have it disabled atm, but as this is my first AMD board idk what it does..
Load Line Calibration is used to normalize the interference so that it doesn't affect the integrity of the CPU. However, it affects your system's performance and shouldn't be enabled unless you live in an environment that has a lot of interference and you're running mission critical applications.

It's basically useless for most home users.

deltatux
   
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  (#1039)
Pill Monster
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Default 05-06-2011, 02:42 | posts: 24,248 | Location: NZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lavcat View Post
Today I replaced an OCZ3RPR16002G 2x2GB set of memory with a Mushkin 997000 2x4GB set. I am pleased that the Mushkin runs at its rated parameters (at least so far after an hour of testing), something that I was never able to get the OCZ to do.

Because of my Zalman CPU cooler neither the OCZ nor the Mushkin modules will fit in bank 1 of the Asus M4A79T Deluxe. The M4A79T Deluxe manual states "It is recommended to install the memory modules from the orange slots [i.e. bank 1] for better overclocking capability." The orange slots are the ones closest to the CPU socket. Asus marks the orange slots A1 and B1 and the black slots (where my memory is) A2 and B2.

However under the section Memory Performance tuning – AM3 / DDR3 the AMD “Dragon” Platform Technology Performance Tuning Guide says "The DIMM slots furthest away from the CPU socket should be equipped first (usually marked as DIMM slot 2&3
or A2&B2)."

Using two DIMM's which bank is correct to populate? Which bank is recommended? (Again, I have no choice, unless I replace my cooler.) Why, I wonder, do Asus and AMD make different recommendations?
Tbh you won't notice the difference, either one is OK. Not sure why dragon recommended that, A1/B1 is closer to the CPU so technically data should get from RAM-CPU faster...

Quote:
Originally Posted by deltatux View Post
Load Line Calibration is used to normalize the interference so that it doesn't affect the integrity of the CPU. However, it affects your system's performance and shouldn't be enabled unless you live in an environment that has a lot of interference and you're running mission critical applications.

It's basically useless for most home users.

deltatux
I think you might be talking about Spread Spectrum.....?
   
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  (#1040)
deefop
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Default 05-08-2011, 00:46 | posts: 85 | Location: Upstate NY

Wondering if anyone can help me with this...
I'm running an Asus M4A87TD/USB3 motherboard and a phenom II x3 BE 740.
I've read this entire guide multiple times and I don't have any problem overclocking using the CPU multiplier(obviously because it's simple). I can take my cpu to 3.6ghz and be totally stable and have very reasonable temperatures even during very heavy gaming load.
But I decided to try overclocking with the CPU bus speed as well to see if I could push the frequency higher and also get the added benefit of faster memory.
So the first part of the guide says to drop your HT link, CPU multi, and RAM divider to their lowest settings. I did this(I think). My cpu multi is at 4.0, cpu bus speed is 200(default), and HT link speed is 200. Then it says to increase the bus speed in 5-10 mhz increments until the system won't post. But I can't even get to POST with the lowest settings! Just leaving all the settings at those very low speeds causes my system to not POST, and after I power all the way down and then back on it will say "overclocking failed" and take me to the bios to change settings around.

I'm so confused as to what I'm doing wrong... how can I get my system to 3.6ghz without a problem but trying to boot at really lower speeds doesn't work?
   
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  (#1041)
Lavcat
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Default 05-08-2011, 01:06 | posts: 165 | Location: NJ USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by deefop View Post
Wondering if anyone can help me with this...
I'm running an Asus M4A87TD/USB3 motherboard and a phenom II x3 BE 740.
I've read this entire guide multiple times and I don't have any problem overclocking using the CPU multiplier(obviously because it's simple). I can take my cpu to 3.6ghz and be totally stable and have very reasonable temperatures even during very heavy gaming load.
But I decided to try overclocking with the CPU bus speed as well to see if I could push the frequency higher and also get the added benefit of faster memory.
So the first part of the guide says to drop your HT link, CPU multi, and RAM divider to their lowest settings. I did this(I think). My cpu multi is at 4.0, cpu bus speed is 200(default), and HT link speed is 200. Then it says to increase the bus speed in 5-10 mhz increments until the system won't post. But I can't even get to POST with the lowest settings! Just leaving all the settings at those very low speeds causes my system to not POST, and after I power all the way down and then back on it will say "overclocking failed" and take me to the bios to change settings around.

I'm so confused as to what I'm doing wrong... how can I get my system to 3.6ghz without a problem but trying to boot at really lower speeds doesn't work?
What is your NB speed? If the HT is higher than the NB the machine won't work.

Be grateful that the BIOS recovery option worked! As I get older the CMOS jumper gets harder and harder to find.
   
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  (#1042)
deefop
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Default 05-08-2011, 01:11 | posts: 85 | Location: Upstate NY

CPU/NB frequency is 840mhz. HT link speed is 210mhz. I still have no idea why it won't work... i've been experimenting to figure it out but nothing fixes it
granted I could go back to default settings or even my original overclock but that would seem like a wimpy way to go about things
   
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Old
  (#1043)
deefop
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Default 05-08-2011, 02:53 | posts: 85 | Location: Upstate NY

As an additional question regarding this whole process:

What is the point of finding your motherboards maximums for these various settings? I mean, the guide says he discovered a maximum FSB speed of 286, but he only uses 210 in his overclock. And correct me if I'm wrong but you would never be able to be stable or even post your system if you found the maximums of those settings and tried to use them all at once, right? Don't they all need to be lowered quite significantly before your system will have a chance of booting?
   
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  (#1044)
Pill Monster
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Default 05-08-2011, 10:41 | posts: 24,248 | Location: NZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by deefop View Post
CPU/NB frequency is 840mhz. HT link speed is 210mhz. I still have no idea why it won't work... i've been experimenting to figure it out but nothing fixes it
granted I could go back to default settings or even my original overclock but that would seem like a wimpy way to go about things
You're underclocking too far which is prob why it won't boot. 210 HT is really low.

What minimum settings really means is start at stock/default settings, and go from there...

Anyway that aside, your best bet is to OC the CPU/NB to 2500-2600mhz or more, that's gonna give you the biggest increase in performance.


At 1600mhz your memory is running plenty fast enough, pushing it further won't help a whole lot.
In fact lowering the memclock and tightening up the timings will do the same thing...
   
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  (#1045)
naike
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Default 05-08-2011, 12:22 | posts: 2,021

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pill Monster View Post
You're underclocking too far which is prob why it won't boot. 210 HT is really low.

What minimum settings really means is start at stock/default settings, and go from there...

Anyway that aside, your best bet is to OC the CPU/NB to 2500-2600mhz or more, that's gonna give you the biggest increase in performance.


At 1600mhz your memory is running plenty fast enough, pushing it further won't help a whole lot.
In fact lowering the memclock and tightening up the timings will do the same thing...
Yeah, but AMD (at least most) systems prefer tighter timings to higher memory clock.
   
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  (#1046)
deefop
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PSU: 750W TP Antec
Default 05-08-2011, 16:39 | posts: 85 | Location: Upstate NY

I really wished I had understood that minimum really meant "stock". Would have saved me a lot of confusion!
As far as the memory goes... If I wanted to OC it how would I go about that? I'm still curious that you see motherboards which they say support memory at speeds like "1866(OC) and things like that. Do you just increase the DRAM frequency and then up the voltage to stabalize it? If I overclocked the RAM stable wouldn't that also help me achieve a faster overclock of the CPU? And couldn't I then also tighten up the timings which would give me the best of both worlds? Or am I being too optimistic?
   
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  (#1047)
IcE
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Default 05-09-2011, 00:16 | posts: 9,164 | Location: Toledo

What does Channel Interleaving do out of curiosity? Why set it to 20:16,9 for all four DIMM's filled?
   
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  (#1048)
deefop
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Default 05-10-2011, 16:25 | posts: 85 | Location: Upstate NY

How does increasing your northbridge speed increase performance? And is there every any point where you should consider increasing the HT link as well? They both default to 2000mhz on my system but i'm wondering if bumping them would be worth it, since I can't seem to get my CPU stable at anything over 3.7ghz
   
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  (#1049)
Pill Monster
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Default 05-10-2011, 16:33 | posts: 24,248 | Location: NZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by deefop View Post
How does increasing your northbridge speed increase performance? And is there every any point where you should consider increasing the HT link as well?
I don't know the technicalities of it, I just know that it does (though your NB is directly related to your GPU and RAM, if that helps).
Increasing your HT link over 2000mhz won't help any though...
   
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  (#1050)
Pill Monster
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Default 05-11-2011, 07:14 | posts: 24,248 | Location: NZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by ice445 View Post
What does Channel Interleaving do out of curiosity? Why set it to 20:16,9 for all four DIMM's filled?
It splits your ram up into sections which enables multiple r/w at the same time..
Kind of like how unganging works with L2 cache on multi-core cpu's - the L2 can multi-task..so to speak.


Lousy explanation I know...

I'll upload some benchmarks for you when I get home so you can see the difference...

FWIW - on my board with 2x 2GB sticks, 12bits is fastest...

Last edited by Pill Monster; 05-11-2011 at 07:17.
   
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