Nope not yet but it will be .Asetec water chill system is going to go in it.I think in like a month.and thanks
Just a word of warning guys... if you buy a Corsair COOL water-cooling kit keep an eye on the reservoir!. I noticed my outlet barb had a slight leak (only a month old) so I did the old drain, remove and check exercise. When I took out the barb, it was cracked (directly where the thread begins after the nut) and fortunately, I caught it early enough that the only casualty was a drowned DVD-ROM. A quick Google showed that I'm not the only one to suffer from this problem. I have since replaced it with a Thermaltake Aquabay M3 (which also sits in a 5½" bay) but at least it has an indicator window so I can keep a better eye on the fluid level. I know there are better solutions out there but as the bottom of my case is already loaded up with drives and the pump, the 5½" bay was my only choice for location.
So does any one have any Feedback on that Asetec water chill system ? Just would like to know before I order any Good or Bad reviwes on it?Thanks..Pit.
Its good. Apparently the asetek anarctica is a good block. The fittings are metric and close to 3/8" ID I believe but that's not too bad. Not sure about the pump, may not be quite as good as the liang models but its certainly decent. The radiators are either black ice pro or extreme I think. http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/16watercooling.html A dangerden or swiftech kit might be a bit better, but certainly not by very much.
Hey guys, could you send me a link to the bes tway t o get a 7900 gt heatsink and fan off. I have a water block to install on it. I think that is my biggest problem. I also have a old Voodoo 2 that I couldnt get off. I will use that as my crash test for a warm up. So, any links that are recent or helpful?
I was thinking of getting 2 double 80mm radiators so that mounting would be a little cleaner on my case. My case has 2 80mm fans in the back and 2 in the front. I thought of using one for the cpu and one for the gpu. Is this a little exsessive? Or can I get away with the 1.
That size isn't terribly popular so its tough to say. But if you do the math a dual 80 mm radiator has a surface area of roughly 80*160=12800 sq mm, whereas a single 120 mm radiator has 120*120=14400. So for both CPU and GPU you'd probably want two of them. You could also use the swiftech radbox to mount externally or think about a new case like the Gigabyte Aurora.
Ok... Thanks for the info. How do these external unit do? Are they something to stay away from, or just as effective... Something like this: http://www.frozencpu.com/koo-48.html
Space contraints mean they really can't be as good, also in this case I believe they use an aluminum radiator. Still quite decent though...
Found some nice watercooling part roundups: http://www.systemcooling.com/swiftech_apogee-09.html Shows performance on most contemporary waterblocks. The big winners are the Swiftech Storm and Aquaextreme MP-05 SP, which both use microjets and involve huge pressure drops. The Danger Den RBX (TDX being roughly the same) and Asektek Antartica also does well, and the WW-LE which is quite cheap does good too. These three are all moderate pressure drop blocks. The Swiftech Apogee actually did rather badly so I'm not sure what to make of that (performance is better on the 32 mm die instead of 16 mm, however). http://www.3dxtreme.net/index.php?id=3gpublockcomparison1 Here's GPU blocks, and the Aquaextreme seems to come up on top. It actually seems a bit strange that this brand gets so little attention compared to Dangerden and Swiftech as its products definately seem at least as good. They are available here. http://www.systemcooling.com/swiftech_mcp655-07.html Pumps. The Swiftech 655 is the same as the Dangerden D5 (the same model made by Liang) and is the obvious winner. It does appear that they have surpassed even the best of the AC pumps. If you turn to the next page you can see what happens to flow rates with a Storm blocks involved, which drop by roughly 50% over the same loop with a RBX. How big a problem that is I am not entirely sure, as the microjet designs definately get the best cooling performance. Looking at these figures the RBX loop gets 120 GPH (2.0 GPM) and the Storm loop gets 87 GPH (1.45 GPM) with the MCP-655/DD-D5 pump, and then referencing the performance results on the first link, it would seem the Storm@1.5 GPM would still be well ahead of a RBX@2.0 GPM. It would seem from this data you would need to hit about .75 GPM with the Storm before the RBX at 2 GPM might end up doing better. Edit: It appears there is a new version of the laing DDC pump, which was branded as the Swiftech MCP-350 and DD DDC-12v. The newer version is the MCP-355 and DDC-12v rev 2, and apparently it is considered the better of the Laing D5. Another option is to get the petra top, which stops the exhaust port from making a 90 degree turn and thus decreasing the pressure.
I recently took the plunge with an Aquastar 3000. Got a good deal on it and even added another gpu block to it without any temp/flow problems. I love it as of yet. Its defenitely shown me i want to configure a custom setup soon. But for now its running my overclocks with flying colors.
Ok anyone have a Idea why a Self contained Water system like mine might get a air bubble in it? No leaks or any thing basicly Ive had NO probs with it but once in a while the Pum jets a air buble in it and then stops pumping for a min. then i unplug the powe and blamo right back to normal or I tilt it up and back to normal. its filled allthe way and i even drained it and refiled itIm kinda at a loss.any suggestions???thanks Pit.
I presume it has a resevoir of some sort for filling? In that case I have no idea, as it should get all the air out automatically. If there's air in the system you may need to help it out by tilting the unit around a bit to try to get it to the resevoir. For awhile I had no t-line or resevoir and filled my loop by immersing the pump in a bucket and then closing it off under water. Thought I was quite clever, but eventually more and more air bubbles would form, and then I read somewhere that water will leach out of the tubing and evaporate. Though since you say you needed to fill it up in the first place this doesn't really apply to you, but it may still explain how air gets in the loop. The other option is that you have a leak somewhere. You could unscrew the case of the unit and take a look.
yea i checked no leaks..ther always will be alittle because of the cap the you put on it trying to get it to the tip top is almost impossibla but its as close as it gonna get.As far as inthe rest of the system none trust me Ive pulled it all out and shook it tilted it ect nothin there. ..if it happens again Im gonna pu;; it apart and see i did when i got it to check and see if everything was in order. everything looked ok. so we shall see any other ideas?. many thanks..Pit..
here is a good place to start I water cool for about a year took it off for a heat pipe i dont over clock i will edit with more links http://www.dangerden.com/news.php http://www2.asetek.com/default.asp?showPage=startside.asp&contentSection=2 here is some how to install video link all sys. install about the same way so it good to go through these it will show you how to get all the air out of sys. and setup you shoud look at them befor you buy one http://www.dangerden.com/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.36 agood place to buy stuff http://www.frozencpu.com/ http://www.dangerden.com/news.php http://epowerhousepc.com/cooling-solutions-liquid-cooling-c-4_18.html http://www.jab-tech.com/home.php?cat=143 http://www.coolerguys.com/ fourm http://www.dangerden.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum.php http://forum.vapochill.com/
