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  (#76)
AJČ06
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Default 01-11-2006, 04:52 | posts: 4,852 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicksterr
It doesn't really matter what order your setup is in as long as your reservoir is before the pump.
Why is this? Just wondering...
   
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Old
  (#77)
G L
Don Juan
 
Videocard: Leadtek 8800 GTS 640 MB 600/1000
Processor: Core 2 E6600 @ 3.2 GHz
Mainboard: Asus P5B-E
Memory: 2x 1 GB OCZ PC8500 @ 355 3-3-3-8
Soundcard: SB Live
PSU: Seasonic M12 700 watt
Default 01-11-2006, 05:16 | posts: 10,261 | Location: San Ramon, California

You have to have water already in the pump's intake to get it started, that is presumbably the reason. You can also use a T-line instead of resevoir either right before the intake, or pretty anywhere where gravity will cause the water you pour in to pool at the intake.
   
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Old
  (#78)
AJČ06
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Videocard: GeForce GT 330M 512MB
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Default 01-11-2006, 05:21 | posts: 4,852 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by G L
You have to have water already in the pump's intake to get it started, that is presumbably the reason. You can also use a T-line instead of resevoir either right before the intake, or pretty anywhere where gravity will cause the water you pour in to pool at the intake.
OOh... I see now. THANX

ps. HEY G L [clears throat]... Don Juan, can u show me ur WC system... I just like looking at them things... heehee

Last edited by AJČ06; 01-11-2006 at 05:24.
   
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Old
  (#79)
G L
Don Juan
 
Videocard: Leadtek 8800 GTS 640 MB 600/1000
Processor: Core 2 E6600 @ 3.2 GHz
Mainboard: Asus P5B-E
Memory: 2x 1 GB OCZ PC8500 @ 355 3-3-3-8
Soundcard: SB Live
PSU: Seasonic M12 700 watt
Default 01-11-2006, 05:31 | posts: 10,261 | Location: San Ramon, California

Its on page 2 in the middle, the Lian-Li PC60 case with the hole in the top for the radiator. Nothing substantial changed except I finally gave up on my pain-in-the-ass DFI board and went back to my Epox (apparently the NF3 Ultra Lanparty was a real lemon). I may watercool the GPU, not sure (that copper lump there now is the stock heatsink). I was really tempted by the kind that watercool both GPU and video ram, but I've heard that it doesn't help much and just dumps a bunch of heat in your loop. I'm also getting sick of cramming everything into the PC60, thinking about a stacker maybe.

Oh, all the moderators are "don" something following the godfather theme, its not my title or anything.

Last edited by G L; 01-11-2006 at 05:37.
   
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Old
  (#80)
AJČ06
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Videocard: GeForce GT 330M 512MB
Processor: Intel Core i5 - 520M
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PSU: 108w
Default 01-12-2006, 01:18 | posts: 4,852 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by thor1182
This thread is a bit old, but who can resist a chance to show off their computer some more with some Photoshop touchup ?

Note: Key at end






Key:
Red arrows denote water flow.
1 & 2: 12mm radiator fans. (These fans draw air up out of the case and act like a chimney creating air flow through the case),
3: Water reservoir and pump assembly.
4 & 5: Push and pull water pumps
6: Radiator
7: CPU water block
8: Y-splitters, splits/joins the larger tubing line into two smaller lines to run through the GPU blocks
9: Video Card Water Blocks
10: GPU cooler
11: Video RAM block
Whats the tube size on these?
   
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  (#81)
Preid
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Default 01-15-2006, 13:10 | posts: 246 | Location: Scotland

Quote:
Originally Posted by solis-365
how should i get it so i can cool the GPU and CPU with 1 system? just have the tubes off the cpu block lead right into the GPU block or stick a radiator in between? or do they make Y-tubes to come right off the pump?

it wouldnt make sense not to put a radiator in between, because i have a cooling problem with my air, cuz my fan blows hot air from my CPU right over my GPU, which doesnt help it out at all. it idles at 58C and loads at 73-78C, and its only a 6600GT!
Ive the same problem with my X800 blowing hot air over my sata! Im also investing in a w/c system and need to know the best way to rig up and CPU and GPU. I dont think having CPU >flowing to> GPU would be very effecient.

EDIT: Thor that is one hell of a system

Last edited by Preid; 01-15-2006 at 13:13.
   
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  (#82)
GFDuke
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Videocard: Radeon 5870 l
Processor: Intel Core i7 980x
Mainboard: EVGA X58 Classified 759
Memory: 3x 2gb Corsair Dom GT
Soundcard: Onboard Realtek
PSU: PC Power & Cooling 1200w
Default 01-15-2006, 15:46 | posts: 21 | Location: Massachusetts

I run a big Radiator ( in the upercase) with 2 120mm fans before the CPU. Then i come out of the CPU into another Smaller radiator with 80 mm fan before going into my Dual vid cards and then back to my Big setup again. My cards run at 48c-50c depending on my clocks and my cpu runs at 36c-38c. Also depends on my clocks. I am not using a cooler at all except for my rad and fans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GFDuke


Last edited by GFDuke; 01-15-2006 at 15:53.
   
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  (#83)
G L
Don Juan
 
Videocard: Leadtek 8800 GTS 640 MB 600/1000
Processor: Core 2 E6600 @ 3.2 GHz
Mainboard: Asus P5B-E
Memory: 2x 1 GB OCZ PC8500 @ 355 3-3-3-8
Soundcard: SB Live
PSU: Seasonic M12 700 watt
Default 01-15-2006, 23:31 | posts: 10,261 | Location: San Ramon, California

Quote:
Originally Posted by Preid
Ive the same problem with my X800 blowing hot air over my sata! Im also investing in a w/c system and need to know the best way to rig up and CPU and GPU. I dont think having CPU >flowing to> GPU would be very effecient.
The consensus seems to be that it doesn't really matter what order you put the blocks in, or perhaps the second block will end up 1 degree hotter or something. The important thing is that you have a radiator large enough to handle the heat from both the CPU and GPU, because otherwise they'll both heat up rather more dramatically. I suppose the other options are to have a "Y" connector to split off seperate tubes for each block, or to have multiple radiators so that one is after the first block and another after the second. Though once again I don't think either would help very much...
   
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  (#84)
GFDuke
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Videocard: Radeon 5870 l
Processor: Intel Core i7 980x
Mainboard: EVGA X58 Classified 759
Memory: 3x 2gb Corsair Dom GT
Soundcard: Onboard Realtek
PSU: PC Power & Cooling 1200w
Default 01-16-2006, 00:40 | posts: 21 | Location: Massachusetts

Quote:
Originally Posted by G L
The consensus seems to be that it doesn't really matter what order you put the blocks in, or perhaps the second block will end up 1 degree hotter or something. The important thing is that you have a radiator large enough to handle the heat from both the CPU and GPU, because otherwise they'll both heat up rather more dramatically. I suppose the other options are to have a "Y" connector to split off seperate tubes for each block, or to have multiple radiators so that one is after the first block and another after the second. Though once again I don't think either would help very much...
How could anyone even think that a 2nd radiator wouldnt be any help? Where do you get your facts from dude. Going straight from the CPU to the Vid card or going to a radiator first umm think about it. DUH
   
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  (#85)
G L
Don Juan
 
Videocard: Leadtek 8800 GTS 640 MB 600/1000
Processor: Core 2 E6600 @ 3.2 GHz
Mainboard: Asus P5B-E
Memory: 2x 1 GB OCZ PC8500 @ 355 3-3-3-8
Soundcard: SB Live
PSU: Seasonic M12 700 watt
Default 01-16-2006, 01:44 | posts: 10,261 | Location: San Ramon, California

Because the heat of the CPU/GPU is more a factor of the aggreagate heat in your system, and that is something that builds up more slowly with each pass. Switching the order of the blocks only seems to help to the tune of one degree or so, to my recollection. So a BI:X2 would really be just as good as two BI:X, because it has the same cooling power.
   
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  (#86)
SL-spirit
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Videocard: 1GB Sparkle 9800GT
Processor: Intel Quad Q8200 2.33GHz
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Memory: 4GB DDR2 Kingston 800Mhz
Soundcard: on board-Realtek HD Audio
PSU: Seasonic M12 II 550W
Default 01-17-2006, 03:46 | posts: 256 | Location: Sydney, Australia

Hey guyz, my CPU has been making a loud noise lately. So I was wondering if maybe one of my fans is dead or something. So would upgrading my CPU with a water cooler help reduce the noise OR do I have to change my DELL CUSTOM CASE to someother Noise Killer Case??? Please reply...........
   
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  (#87)
G L
Don Juan
 
Videocard: Leadtek 8800 GTS 640 MB 600/1000
Processor: Core 2 E6600 @ 3.2 GHz
Mainboard: Asus P5B-E
Memory: 2x 1 GB OCZ PC8500 @ 355 3-3-3-8
Soundcard: SB Live
PSU: Seasonic M12 700 watt
Default 01-17-2006, 04:41 | posts: 10,261 | Location: San Ramon, California

Yes it would, but then again so would just getting a new heatsink. What makes watercooling quieter is the use of 120 mm fans... but you can get heatsinks with 120 mm fans too:

http://www.ewiz.com/detail.php?p=FAN-CLP114&c=pw

Now a nice dual 120 mm fan radiator will of course cool even better, but I wouldn't spend $250 until you're sure you need that kind of cooling. The only case I'd say you really *need* watercooling to get a good OC would be with dual-core Intels... AMDs or even single-core Prescotts probably won't benefit all that much over high-end air.

As for case, yeah, upgrading to one with 120 mm fans can help, also perhaps one of those models with a door, Antec P180 is a good example of one that has both of these features. There are better cases for watercooling, but that's a seperate question.

Also, might want to just figure out where the noise is coming from, fans can usually be replaced pretty easily...

Last edited by G L; 01-17-2006 at 07:06.
   
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  (#88)
AJČ06
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Videocard: GeForce GT 330M 512MB
Processor: Intel Core i5 - 520M
Mainboard: Intel PM55 Express-M
Memory: 4BG DDR3/1066
Soundcard: Realtek HD
PSU: 108w
Default 01-24-2006, 04:29 | posts: 4,852 | Location: USA

30 dBA.... to me thats too loud. But then again thats just me...
   
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Dipping my toes - so to speak
Old
  (#89)
Blaise
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Videocard: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming Z
Processor: Intel Core i7 7700k/H80i
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Memory: Corsair DDR4 3200MHz 16Gb
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PSU: Corsair HX1200i
Question Dipping my toes - so to speak - 01-28-2006, 22:32 | posts: 1,278 | Location: Sydney, Australia

I have a question that will probably dictate way (and if) I buy as a w/c kit. Now I'm a complete novice when it comes to water cooling and yes, I have read through this entire thread BUT...

Firstly, here's what I'm looking at getting: Corsair COOL (Guru's review) which seems to be very well made and put together (in my n00by opinion) but the dilemma is this:

The RADbox is designed to fit onto the 120mm exhaust vent of the PC case and I have a Lian Li PC61 USB case that has a 80mm exhaust port (with the obligatory 80mm fan attached). Would it be possible to either drill the case to fit the RADbox cage or use a 80mm to 120mm adapter to do the same trick? (I noted that G L has a Lian Li PC60 and the two cases are reasonably similar.) Secondly, would I need to disconnect the existing exhaust fan so the pull effect of the 120mm fan is in way inadvertently affected by the existing 80mm fan.

Finally, what's peoples opinion of this kit anyway? In Hilbert's review of this kit, he seems to like it. I know that this whole thing is quite n00by but I think I need to ask before committing the money.

Thanks in advance for any advice give
- Blaise
   
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  (#90)
G L
Don Juan
 
Videocard: Leadtek 8800 GTS 640 MB 600/1000
Processor: Core 2 E6600 @ 3.2 GHz
Mainboard: Asus P5B-E
Memory: 2x 1 GB OCZ PC8500 @ 355 3-3-3-8
Soundcard: SB Live
PSU: Seasonic M12 700 watt
Default 01-28-2006, 23:23 | posts: 10,261 | Location: San Ramon, California

I think it is designed to fit up to a 120 mm fan... as it does voluminous slots but does not seem meant to channel air in any way, I'm sure if works with many fan mount sizes. Ah, here we go:

Quote:
Enter the patent pending MCB-120***8482; "Radbox": an external radiator mounting kit for liquid cooled systems. This product is designed to install a 120mm radiator and fan externally to the computer chassis, using the existing 60mm, 80mm, 92mm, or 120mm fan mounting holes! It comes with a custom pass-thru PCI bracket and adapters to route the tubing and fan connector through a PCI slot back into the case.
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCB-120.asp

I doubt you'd need to remove the case fan, though it would be partially blocked by the radbox. I'd probably just duct-tape the opening and let the PSU be the exhaust fan.

Corsair Cool is great because it uses Swiftech parts, all which are pretty nice and make use of 3/8" ID fittings. You could do better with the pump and with 1/2" ID fittings, but they're both pretty minor. You of course can always get a bigger pump, and since its 3/8" getting new blocks or radiators is of course no problem. If you want something more high-end, there's always this:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swh2edukit.html

You would have to probably drill two holes in the case for the tubing, otherwise setup is pretty much the same. If you plan to cool your video cards too I'd definately recommend this one, or perhaps a custom kit at dangerden. A dual core and two GPUs can spew out 300 watts easy. Here's an example of a danger den kit:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...9&sku=D90-3002

I believe you could get it a bit cheaper at dangerden.com by selecting all the parts individually, the tripple 120 mm radiator might be a bit problematic too so you could choose a double instead. You'd also have to buy a radbox seperately elsewhere if you wanted to mount externally, that's another $25 I believe. Here's the GPU blocks and ramsinks from this kit sold seperately:

http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=67&page=1

Last edited by G L; 01-28-2006 at 23:51.
   
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  (#91)
Blaise
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Videocard: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming Z
Processor: Intel Core i7 7700k/H80i
Mainboard: MSI Z270 Gaming Pro Carbo
Memory: Corsair DDR4 3200MHz 16Gb
Soundcard: X-fi Titamium Fatal1ty
PSU: Corsair HX1200i
Default 01-29-2006, 02:35 | posts: 1,278 | Location: Sydney, Australia

Wow, what a response G L, thanks heaps. I'm in Oz so my range is a bit more limited that those folk in the US. I think you've got me convinced to order the Corsair COOL on Monday and with Hilbert's review (and the manual), I don't expect to have any problems assuming I take it slow and steady. Once this is done I'm hoping to up the clock speed of this FX-60 a bit further and hopefully, things will be a bit quieter.

Once again, thanks for the info and and your time.
-Blaise

Edit: Upon further reading of the Corsair installation manual (available from their WEB site via PDF), the RADbox is identical to the Swiftech model being universal. That was the final criteria so it is now on order.

Last edited by Blaise; 01-29-2006 at 03:20.
   
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  (#92)
G L
Don Juan
 
Videocard: Leadtek 8800 GTS 640 MB 600/1000
Processor: Core 2 E6600 @ 3.2 GHz
Mainboard: Asus P5B-E
Memory: 2x 1 GB OCZ PC8500 @ 355 3-3-3-8
Soundcard: SB Live
PSU: Seasonic M12 700 watt
Default 01-29-2006, 06:42 | posts: 10,261 | Location: San Ramon, California

Uhhh... ah hah! There's the Apex kit, and those MCW55 apparently are 7xxx compatible.

http://www.pccasegear.com/category159_1.htm

'Down under' and everything. Though I wouldn't say you really need this kind of cooling power unless you definately think you might want to hook up the video cards at some point too.

Last edited by G L; 01-29-2006 at 07:00.
   
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  (#93)
Blaise
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Videocard: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming Z
Processor: Intel Core i7 7700k/H80i
Mainboard: MSI Z270 Gaming Pro Carbo
Memory: Corsair DDR4 3200MHz 16Gb
Soundcard: X-fi Titamium Fatal1ty
PSU: Corsair HX1200i
Default 01-29-2006, 19:31 | posts: 1,278 | Location: Sydney, Australia

Thanks again G L, I thought about that one for a while but ordered the Corsair COOL kit from the same supplier yesterday. I think that as I'm just 'dipping my toes', Corsair will do me fine (I don't really want to start removing my HSF's off these BFG puppies).
   
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  (#94)
Strahd
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Videocard: 2 X (SLI) eVGA 7800GTX KO edition w/ACS3
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Mainboard: Asus A8N-SLI Premium
Memory: OCZ 2GB (2 x 1GB) Platinum System 2-3-2-5-1T
Soundcard: Altec Lansing 2.1
PSU: Lian-Li 1200B w/Seasonic SI-600 PSU
Default 02-03-2006, 22:25 | posts: 60 | Location: Laguna Niguel, CA

I am investing in water cooling and I was wondering if anyone had any opinions on a push/pull configuration. Basically having a fan in front pushing air into the rad and another fan at the back of the rad pulling the air.
   
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  (#95)
G L
Don Juan
 
Videocard: Leadtek 8800 GTS 640 MB 600/1000
Processor: Core 2 E6600 @ 3.2 GHz
Mainboard: Asus P5B-E
Memory: 2x 1 GB OCZ PC8500 @ 355 3-3-3-8
Soundcard: SB Live
PSU: Seasonic M12 700 watt
Default 02-03-2006, 23:13 | posts: 10,261 | Location: San Ramon, California

They claim pulling here and also to use a shroud so that 1" is between the radiator and fans:

http://www.tomshardware.com/2005/06/...r_cooling_101/

I've definately heard the shroud thing before too. These are probably correct but I doubt it adds up to very much, so I wouldn't sweat it if its very incovenient.

Last edited by G L; 02-03-2006 at 23:15.
   
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  (#96)
AJČ06
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Videocard: GeForce GT 330M 512MB
Processor: Intel Core i5 - 520M
Mainboard: Intel PM55 Express-M
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Soundcard: Realtek HD
PSU: 108w
Default 02-04-2006, 00:08 | posts: 4,852 | Location: USA

Quote:
Here are some general tips to help you along the way;

* Measure twice, and cut once.
* Avoid using sharp bends and 90-degree elbows as much as possible - the less tubing and easier the bends, the less stress will be induced on the pump - and NEVER place an elbow at the inlet of your pump
* The order of the loop does not significantly affect the temperatures on the blocks.
* It's best to have your fans pulling air through the radiator rather than pushing. It's quieter and also more efficient when properly set up with a shroud.
* Run the loop for a few hours without the computer running as a leak test and bleed the loop. A great way to detect leaks is to place ink jet paper scraps or newspaper clippings around the joints of your system to prevent any drops from getting on system components.
* To properly bleed the system, gently rock and rotate the case while the loop is running to knock loose any bubbles inside the blocks or radiator.
From that website....
   
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  (#97)
shadow42489
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Videocard: Saphire Vapor-X HD5870
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Soundcard: X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty
PSU: Corsair 850W
Default 02-05-2006, 05:04 | posts: 68 | Location: Pennsylvania

so glad to see that this thread is being kept alive! i have to clean my lines soon...as soon as i get some new tygon and a new rez...my current rez is all effed up...it wasnt the model i ordered from frozencpu...i ordered single 5 1/4" they gave me dual 3 1/2" which doesnt work in my case, so i wedged it in the back, ...so i figure ill replace it while i've got the ststem grained...plus...im ordering new chemicals, lights, dye, and tube anyway, so why not? how're you all making out with your monsters?

edit: anyone been keeping up to date on the non conductive coolants? im looking for a blue one. fluid xp is too expensive and gets white flakes, and PC ice which i was going to use is apparantly not completely non-conductive.

Last edited by shadow42489; 02-06-2006 at 01:39.
   
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  (#98)
{LOD}PITBULL
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Videocard: AMD 290x
Processor: Intel 2600k H2O
Mainboard: Asrock
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PSU: Thermaltake 1200W Modular
Default 02-07-2006, 15:15 | posts: 775 | Location: Upstate NY

hey guys might want to check this site for reviews...show how to instal and basic results...Pit.

www.3dgameman.com
go to the reviews page and check the video reviews on cooling Very informative..Pit.
   
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  (#99)
Preid
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Videocard: 8600GTm
Processor: T9300 @2.5Ghz
Mainboard: ACPI X86
Memory: 4GB DDR2
Soundcard: Line6 Interface
PSU: Dells finest 90W
Default 02-23-2006, 15:42 | posts: 246 | Location: Scotland

Ive got my graphics card watercooled, now when i stress it the temp suddenly rises about 8-10 degrees in the space of a second, this normal?
   
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  (#100)
Catroqui
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Videocard: SLi GTX 980 OC/GTX 970 OC
Processor: i7 4790K/Xeon X5660
Mainboard: Asus Z97-Pro/Asus P6T
Memory: Corsair 16Gb/12Gb OCZ
Soundcard: Onboard/Edifier 2.1/5.1
PSU: Corsair 750w/600w
Default 03-05-2006, 18:53 | posts: 738

Quote:
Originally Posted by {LOD}PITBULL
hey guys might want to check this site for reviews...show how to instal and basic results...Pit.

www.3dgameman.com
go to the reviews page and check the video reviews on cooling Very informative..Pit.
Really nice system!is it watercooled???
   
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