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  (#76)
k3vst3r
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Videocard: Tri-fire 290x Qnix 120Hz
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Default 11-22-2013, 16:58 | posts: 3,299 | Location: Sheffield UK

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt26LFC View Post
lol I already have one watercooled, have to have the 2nd match it Although I'm going to keep my eye out for a third lol Really want Tri Fire



Cool! How was yours? Whats the back light bleed like?
Can't tell you yet, not arrived yet
   
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Old
  (#77)
Agent-A01
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Default 11-22-2013, 17:40 | posts: 9,422 | Location: USA

Yasa noticeable instability is quite noticeable. Say his monitor is only stable at 100hz and is limited by the monitor itself, go to 101hz and you will notice blanking every few mins. Another step in he increases the blanking until the point the monitor won't display anything.

Also I haven't kept up with Amd users buy on 120hz net I read there was a wall around 100hz for amd cards. I'm sure the driver hacks fix it but I don't have to do any of that, works without any trouble
   
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  (#78)
eclap
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Default 11-22-2013, 17:53 | posts: 31,511 | Location: Hampshire, UK

from what I've read so far about these Qnix, and I've read a lot of walls of text, AMD have no less success overclocking to 120hz than nvidia.
   
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  (#79)
yasamoka
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Default 11-22-2013, 17:53 | posts: 4,296 | Location: Lebanon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent-A01 View Post
Yasa noticeable instability is quite noticeable. Say his monitor is only stable at 100hz and is limited by the monitor itself, go to 101hz and you will notice blanking every few mins. Another step in he increases the blanking until the point the monitor won't display anything.

Also I haven't kept up with Amd users buy on 120hz net I read there was a wall around 100hz for amd cards. I'm sure the driver hacks fix it but I don't have to do any of that, works without any trouble
Ahh, thanks for the info. What are your timings for 120Hz on the Tempest? What can you get to using auto?

These PCBs act quite differently to overclocking. When I open up my monitor maybe I'll take pics of the PCB. Are there any Overlord PCB pics out there?

AFAIK, Titans / 780s (and whatever is there by extension) don't need any patchers since Nvidia was basically pushing monitor overclocking for these cards and acknowledges Korean monitors (there was once a changelog that mentioned a Korean monitor issue being solved).

Nvidia & AMD both have single GPU and SLi / CF pixel clock patchers IIRC. I used the AMD patcher and everything was fine. The higher refresh rates don't show up if the drivers aren't patched.

BTW, guys, excellent links to read:
http://overlordforum.com/topic/44-25...le-over-dvi-d/
http://overlordforum.com/topic/68-toastys-expert-post/

Last edited by yasamoka; 11-22-2013 at 18:01.
   
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Old
  (#80)
k3vst3r
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Default 11-22-2013, 18:01 | posts: 3,299 | Location: Sheffield UK

added second CF bridge to my setup now getting flickering every now an again? dodgy bridge?
   
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  (#81)
yasamoka
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Default 11-22-2013, 18:09 | posts: 4,296 | Location: Lebanon

Quote:
Originally Posted by k3vst3r View Post
added second CF bridge to my setup now getting flickering every now an again? dodgy bridge?
I don't get flickering if I use 60Hz, which doesn't need two bridges, so I'm guessing yes dodgy bridge. Can you try it alone (with both connectors) and see if you get the same issues?
   
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  (#82)
k3vst3r
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Default 11-22-2013, 18:14 | posts: 3,299 | Location: Sheffield UK

Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post
I don't get flickering if I use 60Hz, which doesn't need two bridges, so I'm guessing yes dodgy bridge. Can you try it alone (with both connectors) and see if you get the same issues?
Screens at 75Hz is dell 23" 2312HM

only started happening from adding second bridge

It's kinda effect you see when you record footage of your screens an refresh is 60Hz an your recording 30 fps
   
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  (#83)
PieEyedPiper
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Default 11-23-2013, 21:01 | posts: 599

Quote:
Originally Posted by PieEyedPiper View Post
No 16:10 love out there in the wild?

Nice looking displays though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LNCPapa View Post
You've gotta go get yourself a 30" if you want 16x10. Honestly once you start hitting these resolutions the whole 16:9 vs 16:10 argument becomes trivial.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post
I can't but agree with that. At 27" 1440p, the monitor looks more massive (vertically) than my 24" ViewSonic 1080p 16:9 monitor. I don't think I'd like 16:10 on 27".

30" ONLY if you want 16:10, they're generally inferior to 27" 1440p monitors. Generally grainy coatings, wider color gamut (negative), lower contrast ratio, more IPS glow, and of course more expensive.
Good to know I guess.
I'm running a 27.5" 16:10 panel right now, as it is. I freaking love the thing.
The only problem is I'm limited to 1200p, of course, and it's a straight up TN-panel LCD. Not LED. Not IPS. The fidelity just isn't there when compared to more modern offerings.

TL;DR

27.5" of 16:10 = god. I will have to wait or save up 3 grand to "upgrade" my display.
   
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  (#84)
Agent-A01
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Default 11-24-2013, 01:44 | posts: 9,422 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post
Ahh, thanks for the info. What are your timings for 120Hz on the Tempest? What can you get to using auto?

These PCBs act quite differently to overclocking. When I open up my monitor maybe I'll take pics of the PCB. Are there any Overlord PCB pics out there?

AFAIK, Titans / 780s (and whatever is there by extension) don't need any patchers since Nvidia was basically pushing monitor overclocking for these cards and acknowledges Korean monitors (there was once a changelog that mentioned a Korean monitor issue being solved).

Nvidia & AMD both have single GPU and SLi / CF pixel clock patchers IIRC. I used the AMD patcher and everything was fine. The higher refresh rates don't show up if the drivers aren't patched.

BTW, guys, excellent links to read:
http://overlordforum.com/topic/44-25...le-over-dvi-d/
http://overlordforum.com/topic/68-toastys-expert-post/
Heres pic of the PCB(same as catleap)


My timings

At auto i can do 117hz, no more. I think they are limited by pixel clock because over 473mhz i get blanking issues.
   
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  (#85)
yasamoka
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Videocard: 290X CF H2O
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PSU: CM Silent Pro Hybrid 1300
Default 11-24-2013, 02:14 | posts: 4,296 | Location: Lebanon

So from what I see, 120Hz is the max you're getting from tightened timings. Quite lucky to hit exactly 120Hz.

I have tighter timings, though. Maybe it's the monitor?

Front porch 48 1
Sync width 32 3
Back porch 12 1

For a Total of 2652 1445.

Results in 421.54MHz @110Hz and 459.86MHz @120Hz. Running 110Hz though.

Does CRU give you better results due to more timings being available? Tried different cables?
   
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  (#86)
Agent-A01
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Videocard: 1080Ti H20
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Default 11-24-2013, 06:53 | posts: 9,422 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post
So from what I see, 120Hz is the max you're getting from tightened timings. Quite lucky to hit exactly 120Hz.

I have tighter timings, though. Maybe it's the monitor?

Front porch 48 1
Sync width 32 3
Back porch 12 1

For a Total of 2652 1445.

Results in 421.54MHz @110Hz and 459.86MHz @120Hz. Running 110Hz though.

Does CRU give you better results due to more timings being available? Tried different cables?
No 120 hz is not my max, i am using exactly 119.88 which is 24.976 x 5 for videos. It is smoother when FPS is divisible by a whole number. Max hz is roughly 125 or so. I have used thick 18awg DVI(which i dont recommend way too hard to flex) vs a quality 24awg(i think) i got from mono price and there is no difference.

CRU is no different compared to NV CPL. The rest is calculated based on what you enter in so no need for me to use CRU.

Last edited by Agent-A01; 11-24-2013 at 06:56.
   
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  (#87)
The Goose
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Default 11-24-2013, 08:23 | posts: 1,881 | Location: shropshire,UK

I looked at the import monitors but went for a 27" IIyama prolite 120hz instead, uk import tax is biggest ripoff everrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
   
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  (#88)
eclap
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Videocard: Palit GR 1080 2000/11000
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Default 11-24-2013, 10:54 | posts: 31,511 | Location: Hampshire, UK

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Goose View Post
I looked at the import monitors but went for a 27" IIyama prolite 120hz instead, uk import tax is biggest ripoff everrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
how much was that Iiyama? I'm pretty sure it would be around 300? 300 for a 1080p, TN monitor? My Qnix will end up costing me around 265. PLS panel, 1440p etc. It's still a much cheaper monitor.

I made a lot of assumptions above, assuming you went for the Iiyama ProLite G2773HS. If not, I apologize. Which monitor did you go for, exactly?
   
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  (#89)
k3vst3r
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Videocard: Tri-fire 290x Qnix 120Hz
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PSU: Corsair AX1200i
Default 11-24-2013, 11:31 | posts: 3,299 | Location: Sheffield UK

Quote:
Originally Posted by eclap View Post
how much was that Iiyama? I'm pretty sure it would be around 300? 300 for a 1080p, TN monitor? My Qnix will end up costing me around 265. PLS panel, 1440p etc. It's still a much cheaper monitor.

I made a lot of assumptions above, assuming you went for the Iiyama ProLite G2773HS. If not, I apologize. Which monitor did you go for, exactly?
Someone on another forums, said he never got charged for customs so might get lucky.
   
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  (#90)
eclap
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Videocard: Palit GR 1080 2000/11000
Processor: i7 7700k @5ghz NH-D15
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Soundcard: AuneT1/AD700/DT880/HD650
PSU: XFX Black 750W 80+ Gold
Default 11-24-2013, 12:13 | posts: 31,511 | Location: Hampshire, UK

Quote:
Originally Posted by k3vst3r View Post
Someone on another forums, said he never got charged for customs so might get lucky.
Wouldn't count on that. I've always paid customs when buying from abroad.
   
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  (#91)
yasamoka
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Default 11-24-2013, 12:24 | posts: 4,296 | Location: Lebanon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent-A01 View Post
No 120 hz is not my max, i am using exactly 119.88 which is 24.976 x 5 for videos. It is smoother when FPS is divisible by a whole number. Max hz is roughly 125 or so. I have used thick 18awg DVI(which i dont recommend way too hard to flex) vs a quality 24awg(i think) i got from mono price and there is no difference.

CRU is no different compared to NV CPL. The rest is calculated based on what you enter in so no need for me to use CRU.
Spartan F8 over at OCN tried 30 different cables of varying thicknesses (and lengths?). His best overclocker was a 3ft DVI dual-link cable he had laying around. He was able to hit 153Hz (I estimate about ~573MHz pixel clock) although the side effects were obvious.

So shorter = better. Thickness doesn't matter much, true.
   
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  (#92)
Veteran
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Default 11-24-2013, 12:35 | posts: 12,051 | Location: United kingdom

Quote:
Originally Posted by k3vst3r View Post
Someone on another forums, said he never got charged for customs so might get lucky.
You will get a bill later on.
   
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  (#93)
k3vst3r
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Videocard: Tri-fire 290x Qnix 120Hz
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Default 11-24-2013, 12:52 | posts: 3,299 | Location: Sheffield UK

Quote:
Originally Posted by Veteran View Post
You will get a bill later on.
what's time limit on that?
   
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  (#94)
Veteran
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Videocard: 2xTitan XM@1590Mhz-CH20
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Default 11-24-2013, 18:41 | posts: 12,051 | Location: United kingdom

Quote:
Originally Posted by k3vst3r View Post
what's time limit on that?
Can be upto 1 week or even more. If you get away with it your extremely lucky.

All my imported stuff ive been billed when i thought i got away with it.

Some couriers will not deliver until its paid, Fed-ex normally bill you later.
   
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  (#95)
Apatch
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Default 11-24-2013, 19:25 | posts: 47

I've got QNIX 2710 for a half-year now so will try to help you with a few things :

- thick monoprice unflexible cable is not needed, it looses it's grip too often, and then artifacts starts to shows

- you can experiment with downsampling, here are my highest settings all on auto

2560x1440 120hz
2880x1620 59hz
3200x1800 52hz
3840x2160 44hz

- tax deppends on your luck and a courier ;-) I paid 50$ for my QNIX (UPS courier) but only 20$ for korean 1440p IPS IMON display. (DHL courier)

- there no need to look itself for information which is already there (overclock.net, 120hz.net, overlordforum.com )

- it's a great display but now I'm waiting for true 60hz or more 4k display, i'm hoping that Seiki , Skyworth, TCL or any other cheap brand will deliver.

btw. I got Overlord PCB Set to sell , let's say for 180$ I don't need it anymore cause my IPS display is already sold .
   
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  (#96)
Agent-A01
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Videocard: 1080Ti H20
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Memory: G.Skill 32GB 3200C12
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PSU: EVGA P2-1200W
Default 11-24-2013, 21:56 | posts: 9,422 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post
Spartan F8 over at OCN tried 30 different cables of varying thicknesses (and lengths?). His best overclocker was a 3ft DVI dual-link cable he had laying around. He was able to hit 153Hz (I estimate about ~573MHz pixel clock) although the side effects were obvious.

So shorter = better. Thickness doesn't matter much, true.
I am using a 3ft as well. I may try a 3ft 18 awg see if it makes any difference but I doubt it

edit: oops i am using a 28awg cable 3ft ATM, meant i tried 24 awg. Now that i think about it, the past few days i have been getting intermittent faint green lines.. Guess i should swap the cable out.

Last edited by Agent-A01; 11-25-2013 at 03:01.
   
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  (#97)
HonoredShadow
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Default 11-24-2013, 22:38 | posts: 4,207 | Location: UK

So how do you guys alter colour, contrast etc on these monitors?

I know you can do it via AMD/Nvidia control panel but do you use the Windows inbuilt Colour management too? Surely it's one or the other?

How then would you get to create .ICC profiles if say you were using the Nvidia control panel?

Lets also take into account the .ICC is sometimes bypassed or ignored with some games.

Lastly, how do you know you have the gamma right? Because I thought gamma was right when the circles disappear in the Windows colour management gamma section. Not so apparently.

I have owned a Eizo recently and a Dell IPS and both of those on 2.2 were showing the same thing. Slightly white balls in the center of each of the larger ones if that makes sense.

I really want to buy one of these but this is something that has been bugging me big style since I found out you can't adjust them via OSD.

Thanks for any help with these questions guys!
   
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  (#98)
yasamoka
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Default 11-24-2013, 23:10 | posts: 4,296 | Location: Lebanon

Quote:
Originally Posted by HonoredShadow View Post
So how do you guys alter colour, contrast etc on these monitors?
The overclockable Korean monitors and the Overlord monitors do not have an OSD. Therefore, all color adjustments are done purely in software on the PC. This technically causes gradient loss, but for consumer use it's fine. Since 1440p 120Hz is non-standard yet, having no OSD is currently the only way to get 1440p 120Hz. Having no OSD is the result of having a bypass board, which gives the OC abilities and has no input lag (not really possible to have input lag with a bypass board). Input lag has been measured at around 6.4ms (@60Hz?). Insignificant.

Quote:
I know you can do it via AMD/Nvidia control panel but do you use the Windows inbuilt Colour management too? Surely it's one or the other?
If you don't have a colorimeter, then yes, those. I say it's worth trying out the different ICC color profiles that people with colorimeters produce rather than to mess with colors on your own. You might want to modify colors after you get an ICC profile, too, it's up to you. You see, monitor variance is usually in a fixed way. With the Qnix, some might have a yellowish tint, for example.

Quote:
How then would you get to create .ICC profiles if say you were using the Nvidia control panel?
That I'm not sure of, but I've read others trying to apply ICC profiles created by them via Nvidia Control Panel.

I think (emphasis on I think) that you can use applications like Color Profile Keeper or PowerStrip to capture the current gamma ramp loaded in the video card LUT. That should surely work.

Quote:
Lets also take into account the .ICC is sometimes bypassed or ignored with some games.
Color Profile Keeper for that. I'm in the process of creating a Color Profile application that keeps color profiles active while gaming AND switches color profiles when you switch refresh rate. It's useful even for those who don't have overclockable Korean monitors that shift color when overclocked, as colors can vary on monitors when refresh rate is changed. LightBoost monitors in particular, when changing mode to LightBoost.

Quote:
Lastly, how do you know you have the gamma right? Because I thought gamma was right when the circles disappear in the Windows colour management gamma section. Not so apparently.
I use this: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gamma_calibration.php
It's pretty accurate. From this, I guessed gamma at about 2.2 and 2.3-2.4 for two modes respectively. Measured gamma quickly with my colorimeter and they turned out to be ~2.17 and ~2.34. Spot on.

Quote:
I really want to buy one of these but this is something that has been bugging me big style since I found out you can't adjust them via OSD.
I'd say it's a non-issue for the Qnix as it seems to come pretty accurate out-of-the-box (disregarding variance). Not only anecdotal evidence (there are MANY user reports out there agreeing with "excellent colors"), but this as well:
http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/mo...ble-pls-2.html

For the Catleap and Overlord Tempest, I'd say it's about the same, they generally come with good colors out of the box although according to the above reviewer, the IPS variants have more variance than their PLS counterparts (Qnix, X-Star).
   
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  (#99)
HonoredShadow
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Videocard: MSI 980Ti OC+ASUS Swift
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PSU: 1300W EVGA SuperNOVA
Default 11-24-2013, 23:23 | posts: 4,207 | Location: UK

Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post
I think (emphasis on I think) that you can use applications like Color Profile Keeper or PowerStrip to capture the current gamma ramp loaded in the video card LUT. That should surely work.
I use Colour Profile Keeper already!

Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post
I use this: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gamma_calibration.php
It's pretty accurate. From this, I guessed gamma at about 2.2 and 2.3-2.4 for two modes respectively. Measured gamma quickly with my colorimeter and they turned out to be ~2.17 and ~2.34. Spot on.
I have no idea how to use those bars and what I'm looking for. I have tried and tried to see what it is I'm meant to looking for and I fail! I looked it up a few times also and did not get a convincing explanation as to what a beginner is meant to be doing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post
I'd say it's a non-issue for the Qnix as it seems to come pretty accurate out-of-the-box (disregarding variance).
So if I only overclock to about 96hz then I should not get much gamma problem as it changes right? But at what hz does it start to change so you need to correct things? Straight after 60hz?

Thanks for your reply btw.
   
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  (#100)
Agent-A01
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Videocard: 1080Ti H20
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Default 11-24-2013, 23:41 | posts: 9,422 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by HonoredShadow View Post
I have no idea how to use those bars and what I'm looking for. I have tried and tried to see what it is I'm meant to looking for and I fail! I looked it up a few times also and did not get a convincing explanation as to what a beginner is meant to be doing.

Thanks for your reply btw.
Look at the image about 4-5 feet away. Mark the numbers where the darker and lighter lines blend together. You want them to blend in as close to 2.2 for optimum results.
   
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