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DIY repairs on your Cars or Bikes ? Ask Questions here
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Evildead666
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Lightbulb DIY repairs on your Cars or Bikes ? Ask Questions here - 07-16-2017, 17:50 | posts: 473

So, here I am busy replacing my Rear Discs for my '89 Passat, which includes the inner/outer wheel bearings.
I have been out to the local hardware store to get a couple of washers, and nuts, and a long bolt.
This is so I can use the threads and washers to pull the bearing seats into the discs. Otherwise, you would really need a hydraulic press.

Seeing as there is already a thread of Guru's Cars, I thought I'd open one where people can ask questions, or just show&tell what they've done, and how.

I've already replaced Gearbox's, heater radiators, suspension/shocks (including swingarms) and some smaller things before.

I am FAR from God's gift to maintenance, but I will help how I can.
I would ask all Handy DIY Guru's to chip in, if they have insight on whatever subject might crop up
   
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Mufflore
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Default 07-16-2017, 18:11 | posts: 10,208 | Location: United states of Kingdom

I had a strange thing happen a few weeks ago that maybe you can shed some light on.

I've owned a VVTLi Celica for about 4 years and its always had a rumble coming from the rear that becomes noticeable from 40mph and gets much louder as speed increases.
These cars are supposedly a bit noisy from the rear anyway but this was in excess.
Speaking to a local garage a few years ago they reckoned a wheel bearing must be on the way out but they didnt inspect the car.

A few weeks ago there was a loud bang, one of the rear springs broke.
I was forced to continue using the car with the height of that rear side about 1 inch lower.
Thats when I found the car is more spritely and the rumble from the rear is less than 1/2 as loud.
I have to brake more because the car runs more freely and am getting about 5% better fuel consumption.
Driving the car sensibly I honestly cannot tell the rear shock has less spring and it still drives dead straight.

A garage has taken a look at it and has confirmed that both rear wheel bearings are fine.
The broken spring looks like the only issue.

I'm confused at the positive difference in its broken condition and a bit worried that when its fixed it will return to its old state.
Do you have any idea what could cause this, thanks
   
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Default 07-16-2017, 18:42 | posts: 7,085 | Location: Washington DC

I've never seen a wheel bearing cause a rumble noise. It's always more of a loud screeching/scraping noise. My best guess would be the rear strut since you said the spring breaking made the sound less noticeable.
   
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Default 07-16-2017, 18:49 | posts: 6,424 | Location: Australia

Well for one thing, the broken spring won't be the reason that the car is now working fine! It sounds like maybe the spring wasn't seated properly and there was lateral tension on it instead of the proper up/down tension that you get when the spring does its thing. This in turn probaby affected wheel alighment as the tension is applied such as the toe-in. If this were the case there should be uneven wear.

You have to replace the spring anyway, it would be a good idea to replace the shocks, spring seats, and spring mounts at the same time. It should cost $0 extra in labour for this due to the actual work required, it's only the parts you need to consider.

Many people would say that isn't necessary, but the broken spring is systematic of another issue. If you replace all those parts then you should have no more issues. You will need a wheel alignment though!
   
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Evildead666
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Default 07-16-2017, 19:32 | posts: 473

What year is your Celica, and how many Miles does it have ?

Is it a 4WD or FWD/RWD only version ?
   
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Default 07-16-2017, 19:42 | posts: 9,479 | Location: USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by nhlkoho View Post
I've never seen a wheel bearing cause a rumble noise. It's always more of a loud screeching/scraping noise. My best guess would be the rear strut since you said the spring breaking made the sound less noticeable.
Bad wheel bearing can definitely have a rumbling noise.
Depends on the car though.
   
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Default 07-16-2017, 19:46 | posts: 10,208 | Location: United states of Kingdom

Quote:
Originally Posted by thatguy91 View Post
Well for one thing, the broken spring won't be the reason that the car is now working fine! It sounds like maybe the spring wasn't seated properly and there was lateral tension on it instead of the proper up/down tension that you get when the spring does its thing. This in turn probaby affected wheel alighment as the tension is applied such as the toe-in. If this were the case there should be uneven wear.

You have to replace the spring anyway, it would be a good idea to replace the shocks, spring seats, and spring mounts at the same time. It should cost $0 extra in labour for this due to the actual work required, it's only the parts you need to consider.

Many people would say that isn't necessary, but the broken spring is systematic of another issue. If you replace all those parts then you should have no more issues. You will need a wheel alignment though!
Haha yeah, I realise there is an underlying issue.
The car appears to have been sat in water for a period of time before I got it yet wasnt written off.
Its possible something is a bit stiff, but its handling has been supreme, I havent been given reason to look for issues until the spring went.

It was 4 wheel tracked by a decent place.
There is a bit of excess wear on the opposite rear tyre on the inside.
I am planning on replacing both rear shocks, 2 new tyres as well.
I'll get them to check everything that should move does, something may be stiff or have its movement restricted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildead666 View Post
What year is your Celica, and how many Miles does it have ?

Is it a 4WD or FWD/RWD only version ?
Mid 2K, fwd, 60K miles.
Its the TSport.
   
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Default 07-16-2017, 21:37 | posts: 4,234 | Location: Beech Island SC,USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent-A01 View Post
Bad wheel bearing can definitely have a rumbling noise.
Depends on the car though.
Yep^....my cars from the 70/80's did it and I knew the sound!

Hub bearings are the best thing invented as far as wheel bearing stuff.
   
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Default 07-16-2017, 21:56 | posts: 473

I'd definitely replace the spring. If its dropped, its going to be a little bit lower, and stiffer.
Has any of the spring fallen off, or is it falling into itself and slid round ?
You'd probably do good to replace them both, but you could get away with one if the other looks good after a thorough inspection, wheels off, on a jack.
If in doubt, do them both.

It could shift height, and weight, suddenly under load on a corner.
Its also really simple to do, if you have the tools.
   
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Default 07-16-2017, 22:27 | posts: 3,520 | Location: Finland

Nice thread! I'll have some questions once I get working on my Almera again.

Actually have you a good trick for replacing lower ball joints? Newer cars have them pressed on struts so they're a real pain to get out without a press.

I've replaced two by using either a disc/plate type bearing puller or a small vice. Neither method is really optimal.

Last edited by AsiJu; 07-16-2017 at 22:29.
   
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Default 07-16-2017, 22:48 | posts: 10,208 | Location: United states of Kingdom

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildead666 View Post
I'd definitely replace the spring. If its dropped, its going to be a little bit lower, and stiffer.
Has any of the spring fallen off, or is it falling into itself and slid round ?
You'd probably do good to replace them both, but you could get away with one if the other looks good after a thorough inspection, wheels off, on a jack.
If in doubt, do them both.

It could shift height, and weight, suddenly under load on a corner.
Its also really simple to do, if you have the tools.
I'm replacing both complete shocks and any ancillarys.
I want the car to perform as well as it should when fixed. There has been something wrong since I got it that I didnt realise until after the spring broke and it started performing better.
Its like it an extra spring in its step (hah) and it was already quick.

Yes, about 1 inch height from the top of the spring broke off, I am keeping it as a momento of why I went deaf lol.
I've tested its handling and its only different on pretty bumpy corners. Without deep bumps it handles as well as it ever did.
Deep bumps on a straight can make more noise/feel too as expected and there is a small squeak.
Other than that I cant tell its broken.
I drive it very carefully in this state.

I used to be a biker and have rebuilt lots of bikes + tuned them.
The garage down the road is damn good though and he gets better prices on parts than I do.
And he is better at diagnosing some car problems.
Cars are a lot heavier too lol, it was a breeze to work on a bike so I let the garage handle most of my car issues now.

I still worry that he wont know why my car performs better with a broken shock, this thread popped up just at the right time to ask

Last edited by Mufflore; 07-16-2017 at 22:51.
   
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Evildead666
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Default 07-16-2017, 23:01 | posts: 473

@Mufflore : edit: I posted and then noticed you replied to most of it

@AsiJu. The Disc/Plate method sounds good if it works.
Its what I used to put the bearing seats into the brake disc this afternoon. That and a thick washer, and a hammer, and a 29mm wide socket for the other side just to be sure it was properly flat seated. Didn't have a 29mm wide socket, so had to go get one.
   
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Evildead666
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Default 07-16-2017, 23:06 | posts: 473

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mufflore View Post
I'm replacing both complete shocks and any ancillarys.
I want the car to perform as well as it should when fixed. There has been something wrong since I got it that I didnt realise until after the spring broke and it started performing better.
Its like it an extra spring in its step (hah) and it was already quick.

Yes, about 1 inch height from the top of the spring broke off, I am keeping it as a momento of why I went deaf lol.
I've tested its handling and its only different on pretty bumpy corners. Without deep bumps it handles as well as it ever did.
Deep bumps on a straight can make more noise/feel too as expected and there is a small squeak.
Other than that I cant tell its broken.
I drive it very carefully in this state.

I used to be a biker and have rebuilt lots of bikes + tuned them.
The garage down the road is damn good though and he gets better prices on parts than I do.
And he is better at diagnosing some car problems.
Cars are a lot heavier too lol, it was a breeze to work on a bike so I let the garage handle most of my car issues now.

I still worry that he wont know why my car performs better with a broken shock, this thread popped up just at the right time to ask
You do say it yourself. You drove it very carefully in that state. That alone would account for some fuel economy.
   
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Mufflore
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Default 07-16-2017, 23:26 | posts: 10,208 | Location: United states of Kingdom

lol.
That test was a long journey compared to previous of the same.
There is an obvious difference how much harder I need to press the brake pedal and how much more freely the car rolls, especially in motorway traffic jams.
Ordinarily much of the time I would pull the clutch in on a flat and the car would slow enough not to need brakes. Now it keeps rolling much longer and throttle response is more immediate.

I rarely hoof the car anyway, usually for a rapid overtake or a quick boot to get up to speed on a dual carriageway.
It hasnt got anything like the acceleration of a big bike so there is no magnetic effect on the throttle for me.
Just a bit of momentary fun when safe.

Last edited by Mufflore; 07-16-2017 at 23:58.
   
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AsiJu
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Default 07-17-2017, 08:47 | posts: 3,520 | Location: Finland

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildead666 View Post
@Mufflore : edit: I posted and then noticed you replied to most of it

@AsiJu. The Disc/Plate method sounds good if it works.
Its what I used to put the bearing seats into the brake disc this afternoon. That and a thick washer, and a hammer, and a 29mm wide socket for the other side just to be sure it was properly flat seated. Didn't have a 29mm wide socket, so had to go get one.
Yeah it kinda works but getting the puller plates properly secured against the formed/pressed strut needs some DIY additional pieces and getting the puller screw to push perpendicular to the joint is tricky.
Often it feels fine but applying pressure makes the puller go skewed.

The vice is even more tricky, not to mention securing it needs all sorts of pieces and two people. Once secure it's sturdier and pushes harder than the puller though.

Guess I'll try and fabricate a tool for ball joint removal/replacement. Getting a press would be the best alternative as it could be used for wheel bearings too but they're pretty pricey.

If I had a spare cylinder and pump lying around then I could build a press but unluckily I don't xD
   
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CalculuS
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Default 07-17-2017, 12:21 | posts: 2,749 | Location: Netherlands

Long post incoming about a beater project bike.

http://i.imgur.com/xhwhLrV.jpg

Its a Rieju RS2 Matrix 2005 80cc. Yes technically not a bike but well laws in Netherlands restrict me to a maximum of 125cc and 13hp. So i'm waiting till I am 20 to get my motorcycle license to be allowed a maximum of 47HP.

Its a 2 stroke one cillinder with a big bore 80cc kit and some other slight engine modifications. Frame is in good condition, fairings are in ok-ish condition.

Stuff that needs to be fixed/repaired:
-Front forks are leaking
-Rear shocks are a rollercoaster, replacement was given by previous owner.
-Radiator is leaking, needs some welding done.
-Rear brake needs a complete revision
-Starter needs some fixing maybe welding.
-New battery
-Complete revision of all the electrical wires, previous owner installed a switch at the outside bypassing the battery and leaving a lot of wires just dangling around. (possibly stolen altough it is not marked as)
-Front brake light switch
-New front brake lever (this one I fixed already)
   
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Mufflore
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Default 07-17-2017, 13:01 | posts: 10,208 | Location: United states of Kingdom

Cute bike for that size engine, it appears bigger. I've not seen that mfr before.
Are parts hard to come by?
Looks like a worthy project, good luck!
Take care on it.

ps careful not to leave keys in a picture, they can be 3D printed.
Makes claiming on insurance not so simple if it looks like a key was used.

pps dont forget to fit a chain guard.

Last edited by Mufflore; 07-17-2017 at 13:04.
   
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CalculuS
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Default 07-17-2017, 13:53 | posts: 2,749 | Location: Netherlands

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mufflore View Post
Cute bike for that size engine, it appears bigger. I've not seen that mfr before.
Are parts hard to come by?
Looks like a worthy project, good luck!
Take care on it.

ps careful not to leave keys in a picture, they can be 3D printed.
Makes claiming on insurance not so simple if it looks like a key was used.

pps dont forget to fit a chain guard.
The fairings hide the cute little 80cc thumper underneath. In pictures it looks bigger than in reality, it feels like a kiddy version of the Yamaha r1 to be honest.

Parts are an absolute bitch, original parts come from spain from Rieju themselves and can easily cost 150 eu for a stupid brake cylinder. Used parts usually come from 16 year olds who crash it and then sell it as "scrap or project bike".

I haven't looked for the chain guard yet, it seems to be sold without one if I look at the part schematics close enough.

Actually found out the rear brake still works, or atleast the cylinder. Cleaned it out and found the spring inside of it was completely stuck from dry brake fluid. Gonna put it back on wednesday and see if it works and doesn't leak.
   
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Evildead666
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Default 07-17-2017, 14:05 | posts: 473

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mufflore View Post
lol.
That test was a long journey compared to previous of the same.
There is an obvious difference how much harder I need to press the brake pedal and how much more freely the car rolls, especially in motorway traffic jams.
Ordinarily much of the time I would pull the clutch in on a flat and the car would slow enough not to need brakes. Now it keeps rolling much longer and throttle response is more immediate.

I rarely hoof the car anyway, usually for a rapid overtake or a quick boot to get up to speed on a dual carriageway.
It hasnt got anything like the acceleration of a big bike so there is no magnetic effect on the throttle for me.
Just a bit of momentary fun when safe.
If it was slowing the car down before, then it must have been rubbing somewhere. If its the tyres rubbing, it should be visible on the outside, but I would take the whell off and check the inside wall of the tyre.
Maybe run your hand around the inside rim too, to see if anything is close to the tyre.
Sounds like its better now, but it could have caused other trouble...
   
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Evildead666
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Default 07-17-2017, 14:20 | posts: 473

Quote:
Originally Posted by CalculuS View Post
Long post incoming about a beater project bike.

http://i.imgur.com/xhwhLrV.jpg

Its a Rieju RS2 Matrix 2005 80cc. Yes technically not a bike but well laws in Netherlands restrict me to a maximum of 125cc and 13hp. So i'm waiting till I am 20 to get my motorcycle license to be allowed a maximum of 47HP.

Its a 2 stroke one cillinder with a big bore 80cc kit and some other slight engine modifications. Frame is in good condition, fairings are in ok-ish condition.

Stuff that needs to be fixed/repaired:
-Front forks are leaking
-Rear shocks are a rollercoaster, replacement was given by previous owner.
-Radiator is leaking, needs some welding done.
-Rear brake needs a complete revision
-Starter needs some fixing maybe welding.
-New battery
-Complete revision of all the electrical wires, previous owner installed a switch at the outside bypassing the battery and leaving a lot of wires just dangling around. (possibly stolen altough it is not marked as)
-Front brake light switch
-New front brake lever (this one I fixed already)
We have the same Laws here in France.
50cc from 14, and 80cc from 17, anything higher from 18+
On a car licence, technically, we are limited to 125cc, 11 or 13bhp, and automatic gearbox, no manuals allowed.
But, You can also get a three wheeler scooter, up to 750cc with just a car licence, with an automatic gearbox. A lot of people have been buying them here to replace their cars for their daily commute, but have no idea how to properly ride a bike. They go over 130-160kph as well.

From what I can see on the Web, that bike originally had a 50cc engine, with about 2bhp. Upping it to 80cc, and depending if it de-restricted or not, the exhaust, etc, you could get more than 13bhp out of it.
I know the 125cc 2-strokes are limited to 13bhp (The yamaha 125cc you mentioned) but they can double that iirc with a few add-ons.
Its just that they are no longer legal once you go above 13bhp, without a proper bike licence.
Also, here, if you've changed the Bike from its original specs, you are no longer insured. you'll only find out when you have an accident though.
Technically, we are not even allowed to put alloy wheels on the car, if they were not delivered with them!
   
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thatguy91
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Default 07-17-2017, 14:23 | posts: 6,424 | Location: Australia

In regards to the sillycar, you would think a user with the name Mufflore would know more about cars . I guess then working on the car is an exhausting process .

Jokes aside, you could probably change over some bushings whilst your there with aftermarket polyurethane replacements. This can improve handling if you do the right ones. Best to do for biggest result are the sway bar D bushes. For noise be mindful of the tyres you get, some are loud and some are quiet, and more expensive isn't necessarily better for this. You could also paint under your car with sound deadener, in particular the wheel arches and immediate underbody area. This can significantly quieten things down.
   
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Mufflore
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Default 07-17-2017, 14:38 | posts: 10,208 | Location: United states of Kingdom

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildead666 View Post
If it was slowing the car down before, then it must have been rubbing somewhere. If its the tyres rubbing, it should be visible on the outside, but I would take the whell off and check the inside wall of the tyre.
Maybe run your hand around the inside rim too, to see if anything is close to the tyre.
Sounds like its better now, but it could have caused other trouble...
No tyre rub, the tyre walls are mint (just checked again). Nothing is close to the tyres/wheel rims.
The rear tyres have been on it since I bought it and the walls have no damage.

The suspension hasnt been repaired yet which is why I am here asking for suggestions.
I hope to identify potential causes before it goes into the workshop.
I'm worried that when the suspension is fixed the higher level noise will return.
   
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Mufflore
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Default 07-17-2017, 14:46 | posts: 10,208 | Location: United states of Kingdom

Quote:
Originally Posted by thatguy91 View Post
In regards to the sillycar, you would think a user with the name Mufflore would know more about cars . I guess then working on the car is an exhausting process .

Jokes aside, you could probably change over some bushings whilst your there with aftermarket polyurethane replacements. This can improve handling if you do the right ones. Best to do for biggest result are the sway bar D bushes. For noise be mindful of the tyres you get, some are loud and some are quiet, and more expensive isn't necessarily better for this. You could also paint under your car with sound deadener, in particular the wheel arches and immediate underbody area. This can significantly quieten things down.
Haha.
My name is based on a different style of muff

Thanks for the tip on bushes. If things look rough when its under the knife I may do that.
I have some less noisy tyres in the pipeline.
Bear in mind that when the spring broke, the noise from the rear became less than half and the car now runs more freely.
I dont want to lose that when its repaired.
   
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Mufflore
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Default 07-17-2017, 14:54 | posts: 10,208 | Location: United states of Kingdom

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Originally Posted by CalculuS View Post
The fairings hide the cute little 80cc thumper underneath. In pictures it looks bigger than in reality, it feels like a kiddy version of the Yamaha r1 to be honest.

Parts are an absolute bitch, original parts come from spain from Rieju themselves and can easily cost 150 eu for a stupid brake cylinder. Used parts usually come from 16 year olds who crash it and then sell it as "scrap or project bike".

I haven't looked for the chain guard yet, it seems to be sold without one if I look at the part schematics close enough.

Actually found out the rear brake still works, or atleast the cylinder. Cleaned it out and found the spring inside of it was completely stuck from dry brake fluid. Gonna put it back on wednesday and see if it works and doesn't leak.
Perhaps consider making it a Yammy/Suzuki etc hybrid to increase the choice of parts.
Assuming your country allows your bike to be modded.
Clear it with your insurance as some modifications might null the policy if undeclared.
   
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Mufflore
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Default 07-17-2017, 15:32 | posts: 10,208 | Location: United states of Kingdom

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mufflore View Post
Haha.
My name is based on a different style of muff

Thanks for the tip on bushes. If things look rough when its under the knife I may do that.
I have some less noisy tyres in the pipeline.
Bear in mind that when the spring broke, the noise from the rear became less than half and the car now runs more freely.
I dont want to lose that when its repaired.
My thoughts... maybe:
It looks to be increased bearing noise when the suspension places the car correctly.
How this can manifest I wonder.
If the bearing is in good condition it would have to be extra stress placed on the bearing, not sure how that can happen.
Or perhaps the bearing(s) are worn but not so much that they show a problem when the wheel is free running in the air so havent been diagnosed.
An inspection is needed.

I have to wonder if the angle of wheel to the road changes when the suspension compresses.
This would help explain the difference now one strut is an inch lower.
If one tyre is slightly tilted it may reduce the contact patch on the road, decreasing noise and friction.
But I cant see how this explains a huge change in noise and the car still runs straight.
   
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