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Soundcards, Speakers HiFI & File formats A cracking SoundBlaster ? Got new Speakers ? Be heard in here !



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RagDoll_Effect
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Default 04-11-2014, 20:44 | posts: 4,509 | Location: Australia

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sasquatch View Post
I have the "Full Range speakers" option Unchecked, both in SB & Windows configs, so I assume that's what you mean by setting them to small. Normally I don't use the Bass Redirection, as I spend most of my time gaming, and I don't seem to hear any rattles with that.
Will set the bass slider to 120 and see/hear how that works.
Also, what purpose is the "Bass gain" in the Sound Blaster software? It's only available when the Bass Redirect is on, but seems to add a little bit of life back into the sound. Or is it just a 'halfway' option between the bass redirect slider & default?
Bass Redirect acts as/like a crossover, bass gain will only affect the LFE channel. Try it on 120, and yeah it's necessary to use bass redirection to tell your speakers at what point they will redirect bass to the subwoofer/LFE channel, especially seeing as you are not using an A/V receiver or anything like that...

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DSparil
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Default 04-11-2014, 22:25 | posts: 3,174 | Location: Tampa Bay, FL

ooooh, subwoofer thread! Sorry for the crap image, but for my home theatre system I have a powered DCM 100-watt sub that rips quite nicely! It's a bottom firing model and luckily no one lives directly below me atm http://www.proacousticsusa.com/Produ...9040133920.jpg

For my PC, I have an Altec Lansing sub that is surprisingly good, considering it was a 3-pack of speakers and not an add on individual subwoofer. I guess you just can't go wrong with Altec Lansing. Much better picture of this set http://apacelli.com/photo/altec-lans...g-vs4121-1.jpg
   
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RagDoll_Effect
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Default 04-11-2014, 23:22 | posts: 4,509 | Location: Australia

Quote:
Originally Posted by DSparil View Post
ooooh, subwoofer thread! Sorry for the crap image, but for my home theatre system I have a powered DCM 100-watt sub that rips quite nicely! It's a bottom firing model and luckily no one lives directly below me atm http://www.proacousticsusa.com/Produ...9040133920.jpg

For my PC, I have an Altec Lansing sub that is surprisingly good, considering it was a 3-pack of speakers and not an add on individual subwoofer. I guess you just can't go wrong with Altec Lansing. Much better picture of this set http://apacelli.com/photo/altec-lans...g-vs4121-1.jpg
Cool Both look good, the Altec Lansing looks really good for what it is, how much watts is it?

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F1refly
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Default 04-11-2014, 23:40 | posts: 9,042 | Location: Indiana

My JLA W6v3







My Bazooka dual 8"



Bunch of audio gear I used in my car

   
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RagDoll_Effect
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Default 04-11-2014, 23:44 | posts: 4,509 | Location: Australia

So, when that car is a rockin, don't come a knockin Brilliant car setup, did you install it all yourself?

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F1refly
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Default 04-12-2014, 00:13 | posts: 9,042 | Location: Indiana

Quote:
Originally Posted by RagDoll_Effect View Post
So, when that car is a rockin, don't come a knockin Brilliant car setup, did you install it all yourself?

regards,
Ragdoll.
Yes. Didn't get any pics of my HU but it's a Sony BT (something) lol. 6" touchscreen.

The sound damping was a real pain, I'll never do that again. Next time I think I'll keep it a little more simpler.
   
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RagDoll_Effect
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Default 04-12-2014, 00:18 | posts: 4,509 | Location: Australia

All good My car has a 1000 watt sub, just a standard box, 12 inch BOSS driver...lol but it produces enough clean bass and I have Clarion speakers

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DSparil
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Default 04-13-2014, 18:22 | posts: 3,174 | Location: Tampa Bay, FL

Quote:
Originally Posted by RagDoll_Effect View Post
Cool Both look good, the Altec Lansing looks really good for what it is, how much watts is it?

regards,
RagDoll.
Thanks man. I'm not 100% sure, but from memory I want to say the PC speaker system is around 32W RMS and the PC woofer around 20W. It really seems to rip though and there is no distortion at higher volume levels. Only small complaint is that when I crank the woofer too high, the bass can become a bit "undefined" and somewhat woofy sounding. Then again, at those bass levels all I can hear is bass so I never even get close to that high on the sub lol
   
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RagDoll_Effect
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Default 04-13-2014, 18:43 | posts: 4,509 | Location: Australia

Quote:
Originally Posted by DSparil View Post
Thanks man. I'm not 100% sure, but from memory I want to say the PC speaker system is around 32W RMS and the PC woofer around 20W. It really seems to rip though and there is no distortion at higher volume levels. Only small complaint is that when I crank the woofer too high, the bass can become a bit "undefined" and somewhat woofy sounding. Then again, at those bass levels all I can hear is bass so I never even get close to that high on the sub lol
Also, the X-Fi soundcards are some of the best ever made imo, the z series is good too, but the recons apparently weren't very good... I've still got a Titanium X-Fi which served me well. Rock on

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F1refly
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Default 04-13-2014, 20:58 | posts: 9,042 | Location: Indiana

Quote:
Originally Posted by RagDoll_Effect View Post
Also, the X-Fi soundcards are some of the best ever made imo, the z series is good too, but the recons apparently weren't very good... I've still got a Titanium X-Fi which served me well. Rock on

regards,
RagDoll.
I had some issues with my X-fi Fatl1ty and Windows 8.1. I doubt Creative fixed them cause I'm pretty sure they mostly abandoned the old Xfi's. Great cards but they need to work on their support which they won't.
   
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RagDoll_Effect
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Default 04-13-2014, 21:06 | posts: 4,509 | Location: Australia

Quote:
Originally Posted by F1refly View Post
I had some issues with my X-fi Fatl1ty and Windows 8.1. I doubt Creative fixed them cause I'm pretty sure they mostly abandoned the old Xfi's. Great cards but they need to work on their support which they won't.
PAX drivers are a good alternative

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DSparil
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Default 04-14-2014, 22:04 | posts: 3,174 | Location: Tampa Bay, FL

^ The X-Fi cards were definitely great sounding cards, but there were certainly some driver issues regarding Creative. Once you're able to get past that mess, they sound and function quite good
   
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signex
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Default 04-22-2014, 19:20 | posts: 8,169 | Location: Netherlands

Need some help with my sub, it's the m-audio sbx10, it overpowers my BX5s too much even at very low volume, like 1/4.

Crossover is at 100hz.

Also, how can i prevent the doors from shaking very loudly?
Should i put the sub on something?
   
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Rebel975
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Default 04-22-2014, 20:10 | posts: 1,222 | Location: Idaho

The sub itself shouldn't be rocking/moving at all- in which case it isn't a physical movement that is causing the door to shake- it's the sound waves. In which case putting it on something won't do anything.

As for overpowering your speakers, you could:

Get bigger speakers
Lower the subs volume even more
Get something to help reduce/EQ the volume, such as a Cleanbox Pro
Buy a microphone to see exactly what frequency range you find overpowering, and EQ that down


There are other things you could do, but you get the idea. It's going to be hard to suggest a solution if you don't have a way of measuring where the issue is.
   
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DSparil
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Default 04-22-2014, 20:57 | posts: 3,174 | Location: Tampa Bay, FL

Quote:
Originally Posted by signex View Post
Need some help with my sub, it's the m-audio sbx10, it overpowers my BX5s too much even at very low volume, like 1/4.

Crossover is at 100hz.

Also, how can i prevent the doors from shaking very loudly?
Should i put the sub on something?
Sounds like there may be more of an issue with your doors than your sub! Also, chances are your receiver is controlling the x-over frequency, so it wouldn't matter what you set your sub to

Last edited by DSparil; 04-22-2014 at 21:05.
   
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funnyman
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Default 07-18-2017, 04:58 | posts: 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel975 View Post
The sub itself shouldn't be rocking/moving at all- in which case it isn't a physical movement that is causing the door to shake- it's the sound waves. In which case putting it on something won't do anything.

As for overpowering your speakers, you could:

Get bigger speakers
Lower the subs volume even more
Get something to help reduce/EQ the volume, such as a Cleanbox Pro
Buy a microphone to see exactly what frequency range you find overpowering, and EQ that down


There are other things you could do, but you get the idea. It's going to be hard to suggest a solution if you don't have a way of measuring where the issue is.
I just recently bought 2 UXL's and installed them into 4 cu ft sealed cabinets. Did you ever fix the problem with your subs? I'm curious what crossover settings did you use?
   
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Mufflore
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Default 07-28-2017, 22:24 | posts: 10,247 | Location: United states of Kingdom

Quote:
Originally Posted by funnyman View Post
I just recently bought 2 UXL's and installed them into 4 cu ft sealed cabinets. Did you ever fix the problem with your subs? I'm curious what crossover settings did you use?
They werent his subs or problem.
Check the post above his.
   
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Rebel975
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Default 07-29-2017, 03:38 | posts: 1,222 | Location: Idaho

Quote:
Originally Posted by funnyman View Post
I just recently bought 2 UXL's and installed them into 4 cu ft sealed cabinets. Did you ever fix the problem with your subs? I'm curious what crossover settings did you use?

Yeah, not having any problems with my subs.

I'm running (2x) UXL-18's in mini marty's between 17-100hz and (2x) PA460-8's in 4cu ft boxes from like 40-150hz.
   
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signex
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Default Yesterday, 18:28 | posts: 8,169 | Location: Netherlands

Anyone ever heard the Canton AS10 powered subwoofer? I found a cheap working one, like super cheap.
It sells for 100 euro on ebay, i can get it for 20% of that price.

I can't find much about it, at first i wanted JBL subwoofer but the one i seek isn't available on the used market atm.
   
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