Ideally, would it be best removing them on a warm summers afternoon, or a cold winters mornin? thank you.
and the engine isn't hot, not least cos you will burn yourself, but also so the thread in the head isn't damaged when you put the new plugs in.
Where are you from and what kind of vehicle? Some vehicles may require special tools to remove the spark plugs. (No, I'm not joking. I'm being completely serious.) Just as a general rule, you don't want the engine cold....but you don't want it at full operating temperature either.
Pretty much every 4/5 cylinder car I've ever seen requires the special spark plug socket because the plug sits so far down in the cylinder head. Most 6/8 cylinder cars can get away with not using that but without it, removing them is a pain in the @ss.
The spark plugs that the 3-valve 5.4 Liter used in the Ford F150 have a tendency to break when attempting to remove them. To handle this issue, there is a spark plug extractor kit.
I have to admit when I changed them out on my Sube, I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was. That's just because it's not a transverse engine though. I think I just used a spark plug socket, and a couple of extensions and maybe a universal joint. The socket just has a little bit of rubber at the top to grab the plug so you can pull it out.
I've found it varies, the wifes Saab is ok, my old Vitara was ok, Toledo V5 ok, but my old Volvo S60 2.5T had a pipe going over cylinder 3/4 which made it difficult to get a socket in there, that was where the articulated spark plug tool came in handy. I was going to attempt the removal on my Merc C320 last year, but as it requires a special goose neck tool to remove the coil packs, and there is twelve 100,000 mile plugs, I gave the job to my mechanic so he would be liable if anything went wrong. He had a tough time and had to edge some of them out super slow, glad I left it with him.
thanks for input fellow gurus, i done a lot of work /modding on my previous ford but my current (which i've had year and half) i've not done much at all and recently got a red engine light. (my current ford is 1.8 with a nice engine, it's from 2007). i got diagnostic tool and narrowed it down to plugs or coils, gonna get plugs changed this week as i'm off and then change a coil every week if needs be. it's ignition related but all is fine, tbh i let this car get in disrepair, i have a pal that works for a garage so i'm totally covered, lack of car funds is all. i'm sure many are same, at least petrol price has dropped some. thanks again folks.
I have heard about that, that's one of the rarer instances though (where you need special hardware). Basically OP, if your vehicle has aluminum heads, you better make damn sure the engine isn't hot when you try to pull them out. It's also a common sense thing. You don't want to touch 600 degree engine components because you were too impatient to wait. It's also recommended to blow the spark plug housings out with compressed air before you pull the plug so that you don't get any crap into the cylinder on accident. As far as anti seize goes, it's a personal choice to use it or not, but 99% of spark plugs today are nickel plated, meaning they won't corrode or galvanize in the threads. It's basically unnecessary.
Last time i changed a set of spark plugs was way back in 1995, 12 year old escort, held together by rust, after that i did the occasonal service, change oil, filters, belt, water, brake fluid, last time i did that was way back in 2002 with another escort, but i have to admit, since i went Hyundi in 2003 with my cars (Lantra, Accent), i have not looked back, these cars are beasts that seem to require you to only fill the screen wash bottle while magic pixes come out at night and do the rest, it is the only reason i can think for them never having any real issues like starting on god awful cold morning and things like that. Of course now that i just posted that fate will have decided that i just looked a gift horse in the mouth. lol
All cars require maintenance at some point. With sparks plugs though, modern ones are really good. A lot of cars are coming out of the factory these days with iridium alloy plugs which conceivably could last 150,000 miles if you really didn't give a damn.
It's rare on the newer model years. On the original plugs installed in the older model years, it's quite common. They've changed the plug design over the last few years to reduce breakage. If the engine is at or near operating temperature, you're more likely to rip threads out or aluminum. The engine itself doesn't actually reach 600 degrees, but it gets hot enough to be a hazard to life or limb. While the bolded parts should be common sense, I went ahead and bolded it to make it stand out due to the fact that it's not common sense. It's not the spark plug threads corroding that causes them to stick. It's the expansion and contraction of the aluminum cylinder head along with the corrosion that naturally occurs with aluminum that causes the spark plugs to get stuck.
96-01, F series, right? Those are the most affected by that. Although I vaguely remember reading there was an actual design flaw that causes them to break off when you try to take them out. I'm sure you know more given you've been a Ford tech for a long time now. But yeah, the threads on aluminum heads are pretty delicate. Kind of annoying, really. I prefer cast iron heads for that reason. Don't have to worry so much about stripping the threads at any stage of the operation. And as to the anti seize thing, I've read conflicting ideas. Some people say no because it affects the torque that it takes to seat the plug properly, some people say yes because its annoying to take them out without it. I guess it just depends on your school of thought. I don't work on enough cars to have a valid opinion, really. I didn't use any on my car last time but that's because it has cast iron heads.
No, 2004 and up F-Series with the 3V 5.4Ltr have a problem with plugs breaking. The original plugs were a bonded, multi-piece design. 97 - 04 F-Series and Expedition suffered from plugs blowing out of the heads of the 4.6ltr and 5.4ltr engines This is the removal tool: Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover These are the plugs used in the 3V 5.4Ltr that the above tool is used to remove: Motorcraft SP-515 Spark Plug
