Custom waterMod gone haywire

as my sig shows, i have a rig which now runs water using a single syscool custom loop for both gpu and cpu. The problem is that during furmark or some heavy gaming sessions temps are out of control, sometimes as high as 80-82 when the pc just hard crashes, i guessed due to cpu exceeding its temperature limits. What can be done to fix this??
ambient temps : 25-27 deg C
idle - 29-35
load temps 60 deg at 60-70% gpu load
load max - 80 deg at 95-100% gpu load



Pics can be shared if HH doesn't mind

 

Question is how much voltage do you put into that CPU to get it to go 4.2?
Besides maybe checking on the mounting of blocks and paste beneath, the only thing helping could be (to small extent) accelerating the pump, or more likely, putting the fans on the rads to full throttle.

And I think pics of your own rigs are allowed, if you meant that

 

the cpu is at stock clocks after the watermod, haven't done oc yet, and i used as little paste as one small squeeze allowed on both gpu / cpu, probably not more than a diameter of 4mm drops.

I will post the pics tonight when I get home, meantime i remember the gpu is ocEd at 800Mhz core, Core Volt. 1.000V and the mounts only cover the cpu and gpu only, not the Vrams or something else

 

i am very sorry if the specs and the quality of the components i used hurt your taste buds, i was severely underbudget and this was my first waterMod tbh :O

the Case is Corsair Graphite 230 T and the cooling is made up of SyScooling SP33 i guess, no way to control fans atm tho, i will have to import some 5.25" fan controller soon i am looking for something to match this orange mess i got

 

Well at stock it shouldn't get that warm under water I guess. I'm thinking you have not made THIS mistake ( ) but have you bled out the air from your loop? Not the easiest layout to get the air out, because usually it is easier if your reservoir is closer to the top end than to the bottom one of your build.

 

haha, i was very aware of that mistake, and i am not glad i didnt make that mistake, because, the only reason left now is that i am stuck with a cooling setup that can not cool at all or i need to go to intel, which will have more temp threshold headroom

 

actually, as the pic shows, i got no reservoir, cuz no more proprietary liquid left, and there is about 3-5 cm^3 air in the loop which was the best i could do with that loop

 

Oh, thought the res would be somewhere to the left 'behind' the case, sorry!
Well did you double check on the seating of the water blocks? I'm afraid if it's not that, I wouldn't know but to guess you could need a stronger pump or another rad maybe... but I've only built one custom loop myself so far, so I wouldn't exactly call me an expert.

 

You have air inside the loop you can see bubbles in the tube in the top left side of the picture. Also you used waaaaay too much tubing the loops in the bottom of the case will effect flow rate. Also the lack of a res will hinder cooling somewhat too.

Tilt the case against a wall, get a PSU jumper and disconnect all the cables apart from the pump. Jump the PSU to start up and keep the case tilted for a while.

Also recut the tubes if you can make them shorter and dont loop them this can cause kinks or put more pressure on the pump slowing flow rate.

 

looks like i have more backaches too look forward to then

1 question tho, air bubble problem could be eliminated if i use a reservoir, isnt it? cuz that air would stay in the tank, or am i wrong?

Thx btw

 

Usually that's the point of the res, to have a bit of air there so the bubbles have a place to go so you can bleed them out easier.

 

many Thx @fantaskarsef , i will have to make time for this and also find me a reservoir, but i am not sure about how to hook it up. Should i clamp it at one hose of the pump - inlet so that water from the reservoir goes to the pump and then to other components. Is this the correct way ?
By this i mean the pump-inlet will now enter the top of my reservoir and then the bottom outlet to my pump inlet , placed somewhere above the pump height i suppose

 

Ideal would be to place the res on the highest point of your loop, but with a top rad that's quite difficult to achieve.
The best spot in the loop definately is before the pump, as the air inside your loop will have a chance to bleed out into your res, and your pump will always be under water than (pumps with air inside / dry pumps usually die very very fast).

But yes, reddawn's correct too, the shorter the tubing the less coolant you need, the less chances for kinks there are. Also, I too bled my loop just with the pump connected, like reddawn described you can let that run without the computer turned on itself, and let the air slowly be transported through your loop towards the reservoir, ideally. Tilting the case to all sides helps too, I even had mine running upside down briefly (which in case of my rig was a bit of a bother, huge case).

You don't necessarily have to buy a jumper, just google PSU paperclip test, did it with an old spare PSU and it worked perfectly.

 

ty ,
Now I will have to go without a reservoir until I procure the right one to fit my case and tubing, and i think i will bleed using a nut above the pump, which can be placed high enough by making the case sit on its side and raising the pump to a higher lvl, hope all goes well i will kudos you both for this, hope it lowers my temps to a bearable level.

 

temps fell down to 72C max after removing almost all of the bubbles. Thx a ton everyone. Will try to delid when i get a new setup ready

 

delidding isnt going to get you normal temps, man. your load temps are sky high, enough to damage your proc (max is 60° IIRC & beyond 55° your proc can throttle automatically)

while your tubing is excessive in length & the spiraling is surely hurting your temps & flowrate, i dont think that accounts for your temps either...not entirely. if your pump is working properly & is indeed strong enough (is it?), then its got to be either a clogged block or a mounting problem.

did you clean the parts before you assembled the loop? its imperative to flush new radiators before use, & opening a waterblock to clean out any residual milling shavings is standard operating procedure as well. the tiny pin matrix of a block can clog easily from particulate.

i have had a partial blockage due to coolant breakdown, & my temps were still "only" ~55-60°. i suspect the temps are mostly caused by a mounting issue or improper TIM application. does your block need to be oriented in a particular way? did you evenly tighten the mounting mechanism? its easiest to screw it a few half-turns at a time in an "X" pattern, going from corner to corner diagonally. if the mounting is even a little loose it could cause temp probs easily, but be careful

did you use enough thermal paste? orrrrr too much? you need about as much as a long grain of rice on the surface of the chip. i personally like to use a plastic bag on my finger to rub a very very thin layer of TIM into the surface of the block before mounting since i dont like lapping my blocks

sorry not trying to be too pedantic, just trying to help troubleshoot. dont want anyones gear to burn up

 

You really should undo the water blocks? I would have never gotten the idea to do that

 

will do them so

 

good luck. hopefully its just a mounting issue, but having to reapply thermal paste isnt bad either. otherwise...it will be a PITA to fix

hehe it doesnt void the warranty, & even if it did...its still a good idea. most folks just flush new blocks thoroughly, but i have seen milled copper shavings & parts of excess o-ring rubber get stuck in the pins of more than one new block, requiring disassembly

 

finally, i delidded my 570gtx, and found out , the factory TIM under the IHS was faulty. Almost dry and hard like mud. Replacing that with NT H1 and removing IHS , temps surprisingly hit rock bottom. Before the fix my temps were 101, now uts 50-55 deg celcius max at full gpu load. I feel like a 12 year old who got his fav toy fixed :3