Basics of Watercooling

[shadow42489]

For a while now, there’s been a need for a water-cooling thread containing some general information, so I will do my best to cover that information. One of the most common questions is “what are the best parts for a setup? This is a very sad excuse for a question, because different users require different parts for their specific needs. In this post I will cover some of the basics of water-cooling, as well as some recommendations for parts.
------------------------------------------------------
Pre-built:
There are a few different types of setups. First, there’s pre-made kits. These kits come with a pump, radiator, reservoir, and sometimes some blocks. They can be bought already installed in a case, uninstalled but with all parts, or some companies, such as Koolance, Swiftech, thermaltake Danger Den, Innovatek, and Asetek all make pre-furbished cooling systems, these systems require little/no modding to install, and are best for users looking for quiet cooling. They are not generally the best for overclockers, but are ideal for users who are not ready to take the plunge into custom building.

Custom:
Second, there are custom setups. In this scenario, a person buys each part of his/her setup separately and assembles it inside their case. In order to have a complete setup, a person must purchase the following items: Pump, radiator/heater core, and water-blocks. A reservoir is used in 99% of systems, but sometimes a person will choose to run a closed system and exclude this piece. It is generally better to include one if you have the space.
------------------------------------------------------
Purchasing:
When purchasing, it is best to investigate all possible blocks, and be sure to decide on the best for your setup. You should be careful and make sure to get blocks that are all meant for the same size tubing...this will haunt you if you don’t. Read reviews, or follow my recommendations to find the best block for you.
------------------------------------------------------
Assembly:
After purchasing your components, you will need to assemble them. If you were not careful during your purchasing, you may have gotten water-blocks with barbs that are not meant for the same size tubing, if you wish to still use those blocks, you will need an adapter, but be warned, this is a major flow killer. When building, be sure to clamp all tubing to its barb…even if it seems tight on its barb normally, the use of the system may cause it to loosen, and fry your pc, which will make you sad. After everything is assembled and clamped, proceed to filling.
------------------------------------------------------
Filling:
First and most importantly, BE CAREFUL. Too many a computer have been fried by someone filling carelessly or not leak testing. To fill a system, remove the cap on a reservoir, and add coolant or water. Follow manufacturers instructions for liquid, most systems are meant for distilled water. Do not listen to rumors, distilled water will still fry your pc if it leaks…distilled water is used because it will not corrode or leave chemicals inside your system. When filling, it is necessary to use anti-growth chemicals if you are not using a premixed coolant made for your system. This will prevent algae from growing inside your system…believe me, you don’t want this. You may also include some dye for that extra glamour, but most dyes do not fully dissolve and may corrode your pump over time, so many manufacturers will void your warranty is you use dyes. Once the system has been filled, run it for 24-48 hours outside of your case to be sure there are no leaks.
------------------------------------------------------
Installing:
There isn’t much to installing, the most important thing is to make sure you do not apply to much pressure. Some blocks have a safety, but most don’t. Applying too much pressure will crack your CPU, GPU, chipset, or whatever else you are trying to install the block on. This is a VERY bad thing, so be careful. Make sure everything has enough pressure though, or else it will not cool. Also, just as with an air heatsink or fan, be sure to use thermal grease, this will ensure you get full contact and best heat transfer.
------------------------------------------------------
2 types of systems:

Quiet pc:
If your goal for water-cooling is to maintain health temperatures at stock or mildly overclocked speeds, you do not need the top of the line merchandise. There is no reason for you to spend hundreds upon hundred of dollars on your components, if you do not plan on pushing them to their limit. Use a single radiator, a moderately strong pump, and a few water-blocks; these do not need to be the most expensive blocks. Midrange blocks will perform fine.

Overclocking pc:
If you are planning on trying to squeeze all you can out of your pc, then you will need to pump your system up. Generally, for people using this setup, it is best to use a radiator that has room for 2 120mm fans. This will allow for maximum heat removal. You will want to get a pump with high flow rate and high pressure, and you will also want to research the best block for your specific CPU, GPU, or Chipset, not all blocks will work on all parts.
------------------------------------------------------
Parts:

Water-Blocks:
Many companies make water-blocks. The best and most reliable companies being “Danger Den” “Swiftech” “Silverprop” and “Cascade” (but these are damn hard to get) do your research, and get a block that will fit your system and matches your tubing.

Radiators:
Many water-cooling radiators are overpriced. If you are not too pressed for space, do not buy one. Buy a heater core instead. Two good heater cores are from the ’87 Chevette and the ’77 Bonneville. If you do need to get a radiator meant for water-cooling (also a good option for those not ready to modd) then the Black Ice extreme 2 is the best you can get. It will fit in most mid-sized cases with little or no modding.

Reservoirs:
The reservoir is probably the least important piece when it comes to choosing your parts. As long as your tubing fits, it will work. Reservoirs can be mounted inside a case, outside a case, and some models can be mounted in a drive bay. Reservoirs will have a fill cap to let you fill your system.

pumps:
Pumps are very important. Even if you have the best of everything else, if your pump is lacking, your system will fail. The most important thing to look for (other than barb size of course) is pressure and flow rate. The higher these are, the more water your system will move and the more heat can be removed. Good pump manufacturers include “Swiftech” “Eheim” and the cream of the crop, “Iwaki” some pumps may be too big for your case, these can be mounted outside of the case should the situation arise.

Tubing:
As much as it is overlooked, tubing can be very important. If your tubing kinks, your doomed for high temperatures or even a burn out. The best tubing is Tygon anti-kink tubing.

Shrouds:
Shrouds are mounts on your radiator that raise the fans away from the surface. These will remove the dead spot, and provide air current to the entire radiator.
------------------------------------------------------
Component Notes:
Despite popular myth, the order of your blocks will make little to no difference on your temperatures, so it is best to just put them in the order that is most convenient for you. The best system order is as follows: Pump-->Blocks-->Radiator-->Resevior(can be left out to increase flow)-->Pump. Having the radiator or res right after the pump, will kill your flow rate and pressure, so always put them at the end.

When going for best cooling effects, it is best to have air blown from outside your case over the radiator, the cooler the air, the more efficient it will be at removing heat.

That’s all for now, I’m rather tired of typing, I’ll add more later if needed.
I hope this helps
-Shadow

(a sticky would be swell)