Die-hard Overclocking & Case Modifications Want to overclock that processor, videocard or even mainboard ? Wanna tweak the best out of your piece of hardware or have the means to design a killer case ? Get in here and pimp that rig man.
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Tutorial Project: Nš2 -
02-23-2012, 23:32
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
Hello,
The aim of this tutorial project is to put togueter a series of smaller tutorials/how to on individual things.
Customizing a fan controller, painting a drive, and so on an so forth. All of these mini-tutorials will be posted as seperate threads.
This thread will be the main one focusing more on the whole build.
These are an initiative of the main sponsor, Lamptron.
Other sponsors that have helped out with this project are:
Thank you all, specially Chris @ Lamptron and Teseo @ Benchmark Hardware for their never ending support.
Right, so letīs start!
We will be using a very basic case, the entry level "Isis" by B-Move:


And we strip it down:
Edit (note by Burnout21 over @ Bit Tech): A good idea is de-rivetting the top side, that way we can trully get all the panels off which will make for a better finish. I didnīt on this particular case as all areas where easily accesible, but this isnīt normally what happens with most cases)
Edit (note by nagyizom over @ Bit Tech): Another good idea is to remove those ugly fan grills at the back and replace them with our own. Obviously this a matter of your own personal taste, itīs easy enough to do and wonīt cause you any major troubles). This may or may not give you better noise reduction and airflow (depending on the specific case of course).

The first change Iīm going to do is prepare the side for a window. If you feel you want a normal square window, thereīs nothing wrong with that, go ahead, you can aply the same steps as I will be doing. Personally, I like something different, so Iīm going to be doing a series of triangular shapes.
Thereīs many ways of doing this, but Iīm going to explain the way I do it. I tape out the area to cut, in order to use the tape as a guideline, you can use drawn lines if you like, personally I preffer this way as with a normal line I end up not being able to see it due to the sparks that come when cutting.
Edit (note by nagyizom over @ Bit Tech): If youīve never used a dremel, you will provably find it easier using a jigsaw, it should also give you a nice straight line. Personally I find tape for guiding and a steady dremel hand is good enough, again, itīs your choice.

Ok remember to ALWAYS use safety gogles when working with any kind of power tool. I use a dremel for this kind of modification, but really any kind of rotatory tool will do as long as itīs the right size.
Edit (note by DeathPrincess over @ [H]ard Forum): Thank you very much for reminding me of this!! I forgot about mentioning it. For this specific job I use the dremel discs line number 420 (Heavy Duty Cut Off wheel), you can get 20 of these for about 7-8 in your local hardware store.
First section cut off:

And the rest...

Now, it still needs to be cleaned up for smooth edges but I felt like testing it on the rest of the case to get an idea of the look:

Yeah, I quite like that.
Edit (note by RustyTool over @ KustomPCs): RustyTool has a decent point here. Notice how part of the triangle windows are right on top of the bays. Depending on the case and on your intentions for interior design, you may or may not choose to do these as all you can see through them are the bays. On a personal note. If youīre using older cases, make sure that you have enough space between the window and the chasis to fit the plexy.
More soon : )
Last edited by Luciel; 02-25-2012 at 10:40.
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02-24-2012, 23:28
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
The front is awfully plain in this case, which really is to be expected on a low end case. I do like the start button though so Iīll leave that as it is. I wonīt worry about the bays since they will be filled. But I do feel like adding some detail to it, following the rest.
Remember to set your dremel to low speed when cutting plastic, as high speed will just melt it and make a right mess of things.

The bad thing, in my oppinion about most simple cases is that the right side tends to be awfully plain and thereīs not that much you can do with aside from a nice paintjob, which wonīt be seen much in most cases since the window side is the one facing you in most cases.
Lucky then that this case has a modern chasis design and has the opening under the board, so hey, why not make a window?

I tend to use number 420 on the dremel line of discs (Heavy Duty Cut-Off Disc). And for this thin metal sheeting, itīs like slicing through butter with a hot knive. Regardless, remember not to push the dremel or youīll burn through discs.
Right so letīs see it all put togueter with all cuts cleaned up (I donīt remember the specfic term in english, but itīs a sanding wheel for the dremel, thatīs the way to go, personally I use the same cutting disc on itīs side to cut off all remnants and shave it down, and then I blunt the edges to prevent cutting).



The problem with the front mini-window is that, right behind it thereīs a pseudo dual-fan mount, which makes the window look ugly and a bit pointless, so letīs cut it.

And now...

...much better!
Ok, now weīve got to sand down everything thatīs got paint in it, so in this case, all panels, as you can see the interior is bare in this case. Once done, clean it all up. I personally use distilled water, but you can use alcohol or any kind of non-corrosive cleaning product. Now wait for it to dry, specially if youīve used any kind of chemical to clean it (iīd stay away from that option, just in case).
Now that itīs prepped, itīs painting time. Remember to always use a breather, this stuff is nasty in your lungs! Not to mention a well ventilated place, but not outside as you will get crap on your fresh paint, and you donīt want that.

A couple of notes about paint types. Iīve had quite a few discussions about this in several forums with all sorts of people. Some use x product and works fine for them, others say donīt use x product because of x reason.
Personally, I use acrylic paint, which is water based, itīs dries very quickly, so you donīt have to wait hours between coats, and itīs good for sanding down between coats to get an extra smooth finish. I stay away from sinthetic and plastic paints, for several reasons which I wonīt go in to but regardless, if you want to take my advice, go for acrylic paints, be it in spray can or compressor & gun.
Right, down to it. First a coat of primer:



And now a base color as the effect I will be using (pearl) is almost transparent, so it needs a base color first, in this case, white.


And thatīs it for today, more tomorrow.
As a small spoiler, no, the case wonīt be all white, itīs simply easier doing it all in white and then painting on top as needed.
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
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02-25-2012, 18:11
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
Edited the main post to add comments from several members of several forums, thanks for participating guys, I welcome more suggestive comments of the kind in order to add them further to the steps on this tutorial so that newcomers can use it, containing imput from more experience modders in order to create a decent first project.
Right so, update:
I sanded down with very fine grit and very gently the first coat of base white, this, while not entirely neccesary will give you a smoother finish on the next coat and it will make the next coat hold on tighter which in turn makes it that much resistant to scratches.
Once done, I aplied the second coat of base white:

I let that to dry for about 15-20 minutes (again this only aplies to acrylic paint due to itīs quick drying properties) and sanded it down again. I then proceeded to aply the third coat, this time, of pearl white effect. Itīs an almost transparent coat, like lacquer if you will, but itīs not lacquer and can be aplied to any color (of the same kind of paint). This will give a glossy pearl finish (which, while the photos donīt do it justice, itīs very different to just using glossy white which I used in the AIO AL project).



While itīs drying time is the same, I will now leave it over night to cure as I will be using tape on top of it for the next stage of color.
PS: The case next to it, is another exactly the same model case Iīm preparing for a client, but that can go in another mini thread.
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Maha Guru
Videocard: 560ti 448 classified
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02-26-2012, 00:15
| posts: 2,577 | Location: PR
u didnt file or sand the edges where u made the cuts? dude. u need to do that before priming and anything else. look how ugly those cuts are as they stand.
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
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Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
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PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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02-26-2012, 01:30
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
I did, as Iīm sure Iīve already mentioned, I did find that this cheap metal sheeting was very hard to get smooth but from that to saying I havenīt Iīm pretty sure thereīs a long way, but hey, everyone has their oppinion.
Thanks for the comment
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Maha Guru
Videocard: 560ti 448 classified
Processor: i7 920 h50 @3.6
Mainboard: evga x58 3x sli
Memory: 12gb ddr3 1600mhz 8-7-7
Soundcard: X-fi
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02-26-2012, 11:02
| posts: 2,577 | Location: PR
what did you use to do it? ive moded cheap cases and use a file then sand it. the file gets it looking straight along the cut the sanding smooth. i am in no way trying to insult you or your moding please dont get me wrong.
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Ancient Guru
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02-26-2012, 11:53
| posts: 2,794 | Location: ∞
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luciel
I did, as Iīm sure Iīve already mentioned, I did find that this cheap metal sheeting was very hard to get smooth but from that to saying I havenīt Iīm pretty sure thereīs a long way, but hey, everyone has their oppinion.
Thanks for the comment
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Everything can be made smooth if you have the right tools, proper knowledge and patience.
That, what you've made, is nothing but ugly (talking about the rough edges), otherwise it looks fine so far.
Sorry, but if you're making a "tutorial" project, do it properly..
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Maha Guru
Videocard: EVGA480SLI H20
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PSU: AX1200 Watt.
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02-26-2012, 12:59
| posts: 2,298 | Location: AUSTRALIA
I laughed when i saw the rough cuts painted thinking this meant to be a tutorial.
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
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02-26-2012, 13:38
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
Quote:
Originally Posted by avivoni
what did you use to do it? ive moded cheap cases and use a file then sand it. the file gets it looking straight along the cut the sanding smooth. i am in no way trying to insult you or your moding please dont get me wrong.
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I did not take it as an insult donīt worry. I used several kinds of files, but the sheeting just kept sprouting (not even sure if thatīs a real word, language barrier here).
If itīs ok with you I will add your comment to the update as Iīve done with others on the main post to let people know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anubis
Everything can be made smooth if you have the right tools, proper knowledge and patience.
That, what you've made, is nothing but ugly (talking about the rough edges), otherwise it looks fine so far.
Sorry, but if you're making a "tutorial" project, do it properly..
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Thanks for the "otherwise", as for the rought edge, I think the same answer aplies. But honestly, itīs a cheap case, itīs a tutorial for begginers, I could use something like this http://www.mnpctech.com/UChannel.html but I really do not think itīs that bad. And Iīm trying to pull the "itīs good enough" card here, specially not after my fallout cause sp project, Iīm just saying that you seem to be focusing on one detail when it really isnīt the point of the whole if that makes sense (again, language barrier).
Thanks for your comment
Last edited by Luciel; 02-26-2012 at 13:45.
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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02-26-2012, 21:13
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
Now that the paint has cured, itīs safe for us to use tape on it, again go ahead and sand it down if itīs not smooth. I first used decal tape to mark lines (the blue tape) and then extra thick masking tape as filler (the yellow tape).




Letīs aply the first coat, of the second color. As with the white, Iīve gone with a pearl effect blue.



15-20 minutes later, I aplied the second and final coat of the blue. Notice how the light reflects on the pearl efect, making it look like thereīs 2 tones.

I let that cure for 4 hours before remove the tape. Now itīs safe for us to remove it (gently please!). Iīve taken several pictures with and without flash, on different possitions to try and show you the pearl effect, though the pictures really donīt do it justice.






And thatīs it for today really. Thereīs not much more to do on the case other than mounting the windows. In the next few days Iīll be posting the mini tutorials on each component and then finish it all in this thread mounting it all in the case.
Thanks for reading/watching!
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Newbie
Videocard: Asus EAH5870
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02-26-2012, 21:27
| posts: 6 | Location: KaLifOrneea wAsteLanD
Just keep gOIn' man. . even if i don't repLy again, i wanna see how u finish up. . "No Good Deed gOes UnpUnisHed!". . hehe. . pLease carry On. .
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Maha Guru
Videocard: Sapphire HD5850 Extreme
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02-26-2012, 22:00
| posts: 1,711 | Location: far,far from home
watched almost all your builds from start to finish.
i admire when one just creates and improves by each build.
no one is perfect,no tehnique is perfect,each modder has to decide the build theme and materials.
this builds remembers me strangely of Pentium 4 era computer cases ..
Luciel,did you saw a BEEP computer case ? i saw that you are from Malaga,so i assume that you did.
tiene muy buena pinta,chaval.dale caņa..saludos desde Almeria
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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02-26-2012, 22:24
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
Thanks for the comments guys.
Anticupidon, I know the company you talk off but I donīt recall seeing any of their cases.
And for some weird reason, I do know what you mean with it looking like a P4 machine, I think itīs the whole, trying to make a standard looking case better that they used to do in those days to sell more right?
Muchas gracias compi, curiosamente estube por tu tierra este finde : )
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Maha Guru
Videocard: Sapphire HD5850 Extreme
Processor: i7 860 3.6 Ghz
Mainboard: ASUS P7PP5D
Memory: 2x4 GB Kingston HyperX
Soundcard: Via on-board
PSU: Corsair HX 750
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02-26-2012, 23:43
| posts: 1,711 | Location: far,far from home
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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02-26-2012, 23:58
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
lol great find I can really see the P4 look now
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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03-02-2012, 13:01
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
Iīve now started with the interior components, you can follow details on how to do them over at the following thread:
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=359463
Here is the finished CD/DVD drive:
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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03-18-2012, 15:10
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
Added the hard drive tutorial to the components thread.
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=359463
Here is the finished HDD:
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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03-23-2012, 10:06
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
Added the fan controller tutorial to the components thread:
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=359463
Hereīs the finished look:
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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05-02-2012, 18:31
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
Added the GPU tutorial to the components thread:
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=359463
Hereīs the finished look:
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Ancient Guru
Videocard: Geforce 680 GTX Aqua
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05-02-2012, 21:56
| posts: 3,376 | Location: Old Europe
Cool idea - I like your tutorials. Gives me some ideas for what I could do next. Thanks for sharing.
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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05-03-2012, 00:10
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
My pleasure and thanks! : )
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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05-05-2012, 10:04
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
Added the Antec 620 H2O CPU Cooler Tutorial to the components thread:
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=359463
Hereīs the finished look:
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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05-05-2012, 10:04
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
* RESERVED FOR PSU GUIDE TUTORIAL *
-----------------------------------------
With this we finalize the how to paint components thread and we continue here on the main thread with the build.
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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05-11-2012, 09:27
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
Final post before the end result : )
Today weīre going to do the windows. The material you need to use is plexyglass, itīs cheap enough to buy and you can normally find it in any building supplies or DIY store, I payed for a piece big enough to do 3 side windows on this case 12 Have in mind there are two types, the normal one and the one prepared for exterior which is a lot more expensive and we donīt need so go for the first one.
Do not cut it with any sort of power tool as it will melt like plastic and make an awfull mess and youīll find you will spend more time cleaning the piece up than if you cut it using a different method. A cutter for example (a decent one) will do the job. I find that to get a straight line, a metallic ruler does the job but of course feel free to use anything you feel comftable with to get a straight line.
So yeah, do a few runs with the cutter until you can see from the plexy border that youīre about at least half way there. Then you can bend it both ways (with care) until it snaps and you will have a clean cut. If need me you can sand the border down.
It goes without saying that you will have to measure the piece before you cut it so you know how big it needs to be. Have in mind to leave a decent space on each side if youīre going for as big a window as possible or youīll find it prevents the side from closing on the case.

Once we have our piece ready we need to attach it from the inside side of the side panel. Thereīs several ways of doing this but I find the cleanest way is using decent double sided tape, for example, the 3M one is extremely strong and will do the job just find.

And weīre done, we can repeat the process for any and all windows on our case.
On a final note, if you decide you want to mount a fan if your sidepanel has the grill to do so, I would suggest you fit the window first (without the tape) and then measure where you need to cut to fit the fan. Personally I wonīt be fitting a fan, I checked I didnīt need to temps wise and as a personal taste decision, I preffer it without one.
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Member Guru
Videocard: 2x ASUS nVidia ENGTX275
Processor: Intel i5 2500K
Mainboard: ASUS Sabertooth P67
Memory: Kingston 16Gb DDR3 1600
Soundcard: Creative X-Fi Titanium F.
PSU: CM SilentProGold 1000w
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05-11-2012, 09:28
| posts: 137 | Location: Malaga, Spain
And here guys is the final post of the tutorial. Iīm sure some of you will have different ways of doing certain parts of such and if they work for you then thatīs really what is all about, right?
For the rest of the people I hope this helps you with any doubts you had about doing certain things and for people that have never tried, I hope this entices you to join the fun world of customizing your PC : )
Following you will see a mix of pictures, each of them has a flash and non flash version (camera flash).
I didnīt see any point on making a tutorial on how to put all the parts togueter as I assume that if you attempt pc customizing you know the basics on how to put one togueter.
Thank you for reading and I hope youīve enjoyed it. Once again Iīd like to thank this projectīs sponsors; Lamptron, Antec, B-Move & Benchmarkhardware.com











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