Qnix QX2710 Thread - Overclocking, Colour Profiles.....

Discussion in 'Computer Monitor Forum' started by k3vst3r, Nov 21, 2013.

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  1. yasamoka

    yasamoka Ancient Guru

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    I don't get flickering if I use 60Hz, which doesn't need two bridges, so I'm guessing yes dodgy bridge. Can you try it alone (with both connectors) and see if you get the same issues?
     
  2. k3vst3r

    k3vst3r Ancient Guru

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    Screens at 75Hz is dell 23" 2312HM

    only started happening from adding second bridge

    It's kinda effect you see when you record footage of your screens an refresh is 60Hz an your recording 30 fps
     
  3. PieEyedPiper

    PieEyedPiper Master Guru

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    Good to know I guess.
    I'm running a 27.5" 16:10 panel right now, as it is. I freaking love the thing.
    The only problem is I'm limited to 1200p, of course, and it's a straight up TN-panel LCD. Not LED. Not IPS. The fidelity just isn't there when compared to more modern offerings.

    TL;DR

    27.5" of 16:10 = god. I will have to wait or save up 3 grand to "upgrade" my display.
     
  4. Agent-A01

    Agent-A01 Ancient Guru

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    Heres pic of the PCB(same as catleap)
    [​IMG]

    My timings [​IMG]

    At auto i can do 117hz, no more. I think they are limited by pixel clock because over 473mhz i get blanking issues.
     

  5. yasamoka

    yasamoka Ancient Guru

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    So from what I see, 120Hz is the max you're getting from tightened timings. Quite lucky to hit exactly 120Hz.

    I have tighter timings, though. Maybe it's the monitor?

    Front porch 48 1
    Sync width 32 3
    Back porch 12 1

    For a Total of 2652 1445.

    Results in 421.54MHz @110Hz and 459.86MHz @120Hz. Running 110Hz though.

    Does CRU give you better results due to more timings being available? Tried different cables?
     
  6. Agent-A01

    Agent-A01 Ancient Guru

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    No 120 hz is not my max, i am using exactly 119.88 which is 24.976 x 5 for videos. It is smoother when FPS is divisible by a whole number. Max hz is roughly 125 or so. I have used thick 18awg DVI(which i dont recommend way too hard to flex) vs a quality 24awg(i think) i got from mono price and there is no difference.

    CRU is no different compared to NV CPL. The rest is calculated based on what you enter in so no need for me to use CRU.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2013
  7. The Goose

    The Goose Ancient Guru

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    I looked at the import monitors but went for a 27" IIyama prolite 120hz instead, uk import tax is biggest ripoff everrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
     
  8. eclap

    eclap Banned

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    how much was that Iiyama? I'm pretty sure it would be around £300? £300 for a 1080p, TN monitor? My Qnix will end up costing me around £265. PLS panel, 1440p etc. It's still a much cheaper monitor.

    I made a lot of assumptions above, assuming you went for the Iiyama ProLite G2773HS. If not, I apologize. Which monitor did you go for, exactly?
     
  9. k3vst3r

    k3vst3r Ancient Guru

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    Someone on another forums, said he never got charged for customs so might get lucky.
     
  10. eclap

    eclap Banned

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    Wouldn't count on that. I've always paid customs when buying from abroad.
     

  11. yasamoka

    yasamoka Ancient Guru

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    Spartan F8 over at OCN tried 30 different cables of varying thicknesses (and lengths?). His best overclocker was a 3ft DVI dual-link cable he had laying around. He was able to hit 153Hz (I estimate about ~573MHz pixel clock) although the side effects were obvious.

    So shorter = better. Thickness doesn't matter much, true.
     
  12. Veteran

    Veteran Ancient Guru

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    You will get a bill later on.
     
  13. k3vst3r

    k3vst3r Ancient Guru

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    what's time limit on that?
     
  14. Veteran

    Veteran Ancient Guru

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    Can be upto 1 week or even more. If you get away with it your extremely lucky.

    All my imported stuff ive been billed when i thought i got away with it.

    Some couriers will not deliver until its paid, Fed-ex normally bill you later.
     
  15. Apatch

    Apatch Guest

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    I've got QNIX 2710 for a half-year now so will try to help you with a few things :

    - thick monoprice unflexible cable is not needed, it looses it's grip too often, and then artifacts starts to shows

    - you can experiment with downsampling, here are my highest settings all on auto

    2560x1440 120hz
    2880x1620 59hz
    3200x1800 52hz
    3840x2160 44hz

    - tax deppends on your luck and a courier ;-) I paid 50$ for my QNIX (UPS courier) but only 20$ for korean 1440p IPS IMON display. (DHL courier)

    - there no need to look itself for information which is already there (overclock.net, 120hz.net, overlordforum.com )

    - it's a great display but now I'm waiting for true 60hz or more 4k display, i'm hoping that Seiki , Skyworth, TCL or any other cheap brand will deliver.

    btw. I got Overlord PCB Set to sell , let's say for 180$ I don't need it anymore cause my IPS display is already sold .
     

  16. Agent-A01

    Agent-A01 Ancient Guru

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    I am using a 3ft as well. I may try a 3ft 18 awg see if it makes any difference but I doubt it

    edit: oops i am using a 28awg cable 3ft ATM, meant i tried 24 awg. Now that i think about it, the past few days i have been getting intermittent faint green lines.. Guess i should swap the cable out.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2013
  17. HonoredShadow

    HonoredShadow Ancient Guru

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    So how do you guys alter colour, contrast etc on these monitors?

    I know you can do it via AMD/Nvidia control panel but do you use the Windows inbuilt Colour management too? Surely it's one or the other?

    How then would you get to create .ICC profiles if say you were using the Nvidia control panel?

    Lets also take into account the .ICC is sometimes bypassed or ignored with some games.

    Lastly, how do you know you have the gamma right? Because I thought gamma was right when the circles disappear in the Windows colour management gamma section. Not so apparently.

    I have owned a Eizo recently and a Dell IPS and both of those on 2.2 were showing the same thing. Slightly white balls in the center of each of the larger ones if that makes sense.

    I really want to buy one of these but this is something that has been bugging me big style since I found out you can't adjust them via OSD.

    Thanks for any help with these questions guys! :)
     
  18. yasamoka

    yasamoka Ancient Guru

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    The overclockable Korean monitors and the Overlord monitors do not have an OSD. Therefore, all color adjustments are done purely in software on the PC. This technically causes gradient loss, but for consumer use it's fine. Since 1440p 120Hz is non-standard yet, having no OSD is currently the only way to get 1440p 120Hz. Having no OSD is the result of having a bypass board, which gives the OC abilities and has no input lag (not really possible to have input lag with a bypass board). Input lag has been measured at around 6.4ms (@60Hz?). Insignificant.

    If you don't have a colorimeter, then yes, those. I say it's worth trying out the different ICC color profiles that people with colorimeters produce rather than to mess with colors on your own. You might want to modify colors after you get an ICC profile, too, it's up to you. You see, monitor variance is usually in a fixed way. With the Qnix, some might have a yellowish tint, for example.

    That I'm not sure of, but I've read others trying to apply ICC profiles created by them via Nvidia Control Panel.

    I think (emphasis on I think) that you can use applications like Color Profile Keeper or PowerStrip to capture the current gamma ramp loaded in the video card LUT. That should surely work.

    Color Profile Keeper for that. I'm in the process of creating a Color Profile application that keeps color profiles active while gaming AND switches color profiles when you switch refresh rate. It's useful even for those who don't have overclockable Korean monitors that shift color when overclocked, as colors can vary on monitors when refresh rate is changed. LightBoost monitors in particular, when changing mode to LightBoost.

    I use this: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gamma_calibration.php
    It's pretty accurate. From this, I guessed gamma at about 2.2 and 2.3-2.4 for two modes respectively. Measured gamma quickly with my colorimeter and they turned out to be ~2.17 and ~2.34. Spot on.

    I'd say it's a non-issue for the Qnix as it seems to come pretty accurate out-of-the-box (disregarding variance). Not only anecdotal evidence (there are MANY user reports out there agreeing with "excellent colors"), but this as well:
    http://wecravegamestoo.com/forums/m...iew-2560x1440-matte-overclock-able-pls-2.html

    For the Catleap and Overlord Tempest, I'd say it's about the same, they generally come with good colors out of the box although according to the above reviewer, the IPS variants have more variance than their PLS counterparts (Qnix, X-Star).
     
  19. HonoredShadow

    HonoredShadow Ancient Guru

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    I use Colour Profile Keeper already!

    I have no idea how to use those bars and what I'm looking for. I have tried and tried to see what it is I'm meant to looking for and I fail! I looked it up a few times also and did not get a convincing explanation as to what a beginner is meant to be doing.

    So if I only overclock to about 96hz then I should not get much gamma problem as it changes right? But at what hz does it start to change so you need to correct things? Straight after 60hz?

    Thanks for your reply btw.
     
  20. Agent-A01

    Agent-A01 Ancient Guru

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    Look at the image about 4-5 feet away. Mark the numbers where the darker and lighter lines blend together. You want them to blend in as close to 2.2 for optimum results.
     

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